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Thread: insane amount of force to move shift lever, changing all gears is difficult

  1. #1

    insane amount of force to move shift lever, changing all gears is difficult

    this is the 2nd time this has happened in about 2 years. from neutral, in order to shift to first or second gear i have to use all the force available to me. and even then i'm not always successful. i usually will shift to 3rd (still extremely difficult) and then hope to shift down to 2nd successfully. have you ever tried to shift the lever without pushing down on the clutch pedal? it won't...thats the same feel i get from the shift lever.

    • kartboy short shifter and polyurethane shift bushings back in 2004
    • new OEM clutch hose 2 years ago (after getting it back from the shop the first time the lever would not shift into gear...the shop recommended a new clutch but i managed to drive it home anyway and the symptoms went away).
    • new OEM Exedy clutch, new flywheel, RR-Racing polyurethane insert in the rear engine mount. all at the same time last year. installed after vallet burned up my clutch. (spongy pedal after install, was told it might be slave or master cylinder but i bled the system and the pedal was back to normal).
    • replaced clutch cut switch, OEM part # GA2C6649YA, its the grey switch up against the pedal.
    • torn #3, right passenger side engine mount, part has been ordered
    • RR-Racing poly insert not yet installed on the front #2 mount.

    once the car gets going, 3-5 gears are relatively easier to shift into. shifting down from 3rd to 2nd is still difficult. the pedal feels OK but for the life of the car the pedal engagement has never been great even with the new clutch. my mind could be playing tricks on me but i hear a low whine when cruising yesterday and today.

    if the #3 engine mount arrives by saturday i'll take a look under the car as i install it. anything i should look out for? thanks for any advice

  2. #2
    "Sweet Jesus Thats Loud!" BRIAN MP5T's Avatar
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    Nov 2007
    Ottawa Ontario
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    Pulling that hard on the shifter will simply snap the linkage.

    It is quite weak.

  3. #3
    thanks. will inspect linkage for damage.

  4. #4
    Subbin cause I have the same problem

  5. #5
    hey everybody, i completely forgot that the 1st time this happened was due to the front (#2) motor mount being torn. i replaced it with a used one from a member in the forums and it was back in shape. the used one had significantly less miles on it and i figured i'd be able to install the RR-Racing polyurethane inserts at a future date.

    well it turns out this was the case again. the front mount was torn, the rubber had sunk down to the gap in the rubber which had affected the position of the piston in the slave cylinder. the piston at an angle had difficulty pushing the fork, causing my shift problems. so check the #2 motor mount. this is the mount closest to the radiator.

    an alternative is the AWR,, or Street Unit,, polyurethane motor mount. being a baby about NVH, i elected to keep the torn rubber mount and use the RR-Racing inserts. hopefully the mount will still function or else i'll be on the hunt for another used replacement (at $50 a pop -- wholesale price -- from the dealer for a part that is certain to fail, i'd rather get a good used one and utilize the inserts). so i'm happy to report that the shifting is back to normal. thanks for everybody's suggestions.

  6. #6
    Wow I'm going to check that right now

  7. #7
    a little bit of an update:
    the gear shifting is getting difficult again. the new mounts/inserts helped dramatically, but in addition to the shifter getting harder to push into gear, the engagement point on the clutch pedal is getting lower and lower to the ground. i can feel a lot of roughness on the pedal as it engages. sometimes it gets really rough and i hear a grinding sound. its not the typical high-pitched, fast grinding of gears, but a slow, loud, bumpy grind if that makes any sense.

    i have readjusted the clutch pedal about 100x now. yes i still get clunks but i think they are suspension related. any thoughts?

  8. #8
    Sounds like your clutch master and / or slave cylinder are taking a poop.
    Atlanta Region SCCA
    114 DP

  9. #9
    I'd bleed the clutch again first to make sure it's not air in the lines

    mine is starting to have air in it (I haven't bled the clutch in over 2 years), so I can actually feel the shifter being notchy these days... not a problem for me because I know how to rev match up shifting and down shifting
    I've been using the OEM torque damper with a diesel #2 mount too, it helped greatly... my #1 mount is still in great shape after all these years! (knocks on wood)

  10. #10
    bleeding really helped. first few turns of the bleeder valve saw small bubbles. after about 3 weeks now the symptoms are coming back. so i guess the next step is a slave cylinder, as that looks easier to replace than the master cylinder. or is this a job where you have to replace both at the same time?

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