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Thread: Proper Water Cooling for Turbos

  1. #1

    Proper Water Cooling for Turbos

    GARRETT WHITE PAPER Turbo Water Cooling and Importance

    The above link is to Garretts website explaining the importance of PROPERLY hooking up the water lines to a water cooled turbo. This paragraph pretty much sums it up, but for really cool pictures and graphs, click the link to see more.

    What is the right way to set up a water-cooled turbocharger?

    "The damaging effects of heat soakback can be prevented from destroying the turbocharger
    through proper installation of the water lines in the cooling system. Water-cooling
    a turbocharger does not need to be a complex project. The turbo’s water lines should be
    plumbed into the engine’s existing cooling system, and can be teed off of the heater lines if
    they are still present in the vehicle and convenient. Engine coolant (antifreeze) can be used
    without worry – water-cooled Garrett® turbochargers are qualifi ed during heat soak-back
    testing using a typical 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze, at a temperature of 196°F
    (91°C). In order to get the greatest benefi t from water-cooling, the turbocharger’s center
    housing should be rotated around the central axis (the shaft) so that the water ports are at
    an angle of approximately 20° from the horizontal. This is necessary to promote the thermal
    siphoning effect discussed earlier. The input water (colder side, from the engine’s cooling
    system) should be plumbed in to the lower of the two ports after the housing is rotated. The
    hotter output water leading back into the engine’s cooling system should be plumbed into
    the higher port and allowed to travel “uphill” all the way back to where it meets the cooling
    system. No up/down kinks or “traps” should be present in this return line. Either side of the
    turbocharger can be used as the outlet – the water core was designed for fl ow in either direction.
    Proper plumbing execution in this way, with the colder water entering from the low
    side, leading into the rotated center housing and exiting the higher side, will reduce formation
    of air pockets and allow unrestricted fl ow during the thermal siphoning period after the
    engine is shut down. Full benefi t of the thermal siphoning effect will be realized and internal
    turbo temperatures will be minimized. Garrett® laboratory testing has shown that peak temperatures
    in the center housing can be reduced by as much as 90°F (50°C) when the center
    housing is rotated to allow the hotter outlet water to escape from the higher port. Rotating
    the housing more than 20° from horizontal may further reduce temperatures slightly but may
    also impede oil drainage, so stick with 20° as a maximum."

  2. #2
    Good info. I used the throttle body coolant delete but I never did pay attention to which was the "supply" and which was the "return". Rotating the CHRA should be easy tho.
    Last edited by mspeedP5; 08-01-2011 at 10:30 PM.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by mspeedP5 View Post
    Good info. I used the throttle body coolant delete but I never did pay attention to which was the "supply" and which was the "return". Rotating the CHRA should be easy tho.
    Yes, just a couple 10mm bolts to loosen. Just dont take them out all the way. It clocks very easy. The SteedSpeed's manifold T3 flange is just about at the proper angle already. I am using a dedicated water system with a 13"x13" radiator, Bosch Cobra water pump, AN-8 hoses and fittings and a slimline fan. The water mixture for the system is the same as my engine: 85% water, 14% coolant and a bottle of RedLine Water Wetter. The thermal siphoning effect the article speaks of is pretty cool. No need for a turbo timer!! I still take it easy driving for a few minutes before parking it anyway. Theres way too many hours with the die grinder on my turbine housing to piss it all away prematurely.

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