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Thread: How to connect chip on DITD?

  1. #11
    I dont always bro, but when I do... Tungsten6's Avatar
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    Oct 2008
    Flagler Beach,Fl
    Quote Originally Posted by KrayzieFox View Post
    Matty.. He speaks and understands English.
    Hahahaha that made me lol
    2013 Mazdaspeed 3 w/ Technology Package
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  2. #12
    obviously I didn't even need the scheme.. I found the scheme, but it's already connected as in it..

    HERE and HERE it is.. if somebody ever need this, he doesn't have to go through what I've gone..

    but, either I don't feel the gain in the power and acceleration (I should), either some of the wires are broken or the ground in the leg compartment is not good..

    I haven't removed the paint on the ground connection (bolt welded on the floor), but I think it's not necessary because I never remove the paint when I connect the ground (for music e.g.)..

    any suggestions?

  3. #13
    I would probably scrub off the paint just to be safe.. bad grounds are usually a common issue with electrical stuff so it's better to have confidence in your ground than to wonder if it's doing what it's supposed to.

    You never told me if you're soldering or using the quick connectors

  4. #14
    lol, I had the best will to use quick-release connectors (clamp), but in our biggest electro-shop I've found some shitty clamps.. so I haven't used them, just soldered those three wires I needed.. no big difference..

    I'll try to scrub off the paint, check all the connections again (even if I know they are ok because I'm perfectionist), and go step by step again with that manual I've found..

    interesting, the order of the connections may be crucial, but I doubt it.. they say that the V-VP box should be connected to multi-pole plug on the very last step.. the grounding is done after the connections to the ECU and the fuel pump and before connectiong the plug to the chip-box..

  5. #15
    Something makes me think that this wiring scheme should be similar to that of the Split Second AFC, which consists of the MAF and O2 sensor wires being cut and each end getting connected to a different wire coming out the piggyback unit.

    And this makes sense too since those are the signals you want the piggyback to modify. That way the signal comes in from the sensor in the engine bay, passes into the piggyback through one wire, and out of it to the ECU through another one. The unit you have appears to be meant for the same type of task, but it modifies the spill valve signal by reading off the MAF whereas the AFC modifies the MAF and O2 sensor readings by reading off an internal MAP sensor.

    If that's the case, I would assume that the signal wire on the spill valve solenoid should be cut at some place and the wiring needs to go through the piggyback.. not just T off the signal. But I may be wrong too, I am only familiar with the AFC so don't take my word for it.

    I would still double check and at least solder all the connections. It's the only way to go when it comes to any wiring around the ECU. You want that shit to be secure.

  6. #16
    You can load the links again
    I need to read this computer

  7. #17
    You can load the links again
    I need to read this computer

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