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Thread: 3g Protege 2.0 FS-DE: Egr Removal / Cleaning

  1. #1
    o_________O daftIntrovert's Avatar
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    3g Protege 2.0 FS-DE: Egr Removal / Cleaning

    If you go through the guide and are a kind individual, take pictures along the way and send them to me via a PM or an e-mail

    Introduction:


    On the 3rd Gen Proteges (2.0 litre FS-DE, gods greatest gift to mankind), the EGR valve gets gummed up with carbon deposits thanks to how woefully rich the cars run on the stock ECU. When this happens, people report a rough idle, and if it gets very bad (due to high mileage, bad gas, different driving style, etc) it can cause the car to stall at idle and throw a check engine light code (EGR insufficient flow or something similar).

    Warning: Using harsh cleaners (such as the brake cleaner everyone uses) on the EGR valve will shorten the timespan between cleanings, eventually to the point where you find that you need to clean it every 3k miles when you change your oil. If I find out about a cleaner that can clean it well without that side effect, I'll update this.

    Note: There is a revised EGR valve part number (note to kansei: look this up), but from what I've been told the revised part in no way fixes this "problem". Never fear, cleaning the EGR valve is pretty simple after the first time you've done it.

    Tools/Supplies:
    - 12mm 6-point socket: shallow socket, and no huge ratchet heads
    - 10mm or 8mm socket, optionally a phillips or flat screwdriver (for removal of intake).
    - Optional: 10mm deep and 17mm (14? confirm this) sockets for removal of battery tie-down, battery terminals, and strut tower brace.
    - Brake Cleaner: non-chlorinated so that you don't die.

    Procedure:

    A. Before starting, disconnect the terminals on the battery using a 10mm wrench (a 10mm deep socket works). Pump the brake pedal to ensure that the car's electrical system is discharged. Safety first!

    1. Begin by gaining access to the EGR valve. The more modded your car is, the easier this will probably be. The EGR valve is located on the underside of the intake manifold, near the throttle body.
    a. Obviously, the intake needs to get out of the way. If you have an aftermarket intake, chances are the hose clamp will use an 8mm socket or a screwdriver to loosen it. For the stock intake, I'm going to guess a 10mm, but I haven't seen my stock intake in over three years so I'm honestly not sure. You just need the pipe closest to the throttle body removed so you can reach under the throttle body to get at it with a socket wrench.
    b. Using a clean rag, protect the throttle body from any debris. Alternately, a latex/nitrile/vinyl glove stretched over the throttle body works great too.
    c. Depending on how much of a contortionist you are, you may find that removing the battery (2 10mm nuts on the top battery bracket, plus 4 17mm (or is it 14mm) nuts to remove the strut tower brace.

    2. Ok, so where is it? You likely can't even see it, and won't actually see it until it is removed from the car. Start by following the small wiring bundle traveling under the throttle body until you find the plug. Unplug the plug on the EGR, it's one of those "squeeze the tab and yank" plugs. Getting that out of the way makes it a lot easier to access the bolts.

    3. With the 12mm socket on your wrench, feel around for the two bolts. You'll find that they are oriented with one on the driver's side of the valve, and the other on the passenger side of the valve. If you've never removed these bolts before, put on some mechanics gloves so your knuckles don't get bloody (I'm not kidding). Once you bust the first bolt loose, move on to the second one, you'll find that once they are started, the rest can be done by hand. The bolts are long since they go through the entire body of the EGR valve, be prepared to catch them so they don't fall into the abyss of your front crossmember, steering linkage, lower tie bar, and axles.

    4. With the two bolts removed, the valve should just come off into your hand. Make sure you get the gasket too, it will likely be stuck either on the EGR valve or still on the underside of the intake manifold.

    5. I'm sure at this point you can see why that valve was causing a problem. They get so gunked up with carbon deposits that the plunger inside the valve gets stuck.

    6. Optional: Spray the four screws attaching the two halves of the valve together with pb blaster and let it sit for a while. Carefully remove the four screws and separate the pieces. I wasn't careful, and two of the screws on mine are stripped. You can clean the valve without removing these, just be careful of the electrical connections.

    7. This will make a mess: go at the carbon with the brake cleaner, thoroughly rinsing out both sides of the chamber. A small brush such as your roommate's toothbrush may allow you to more easily remove the carbon. I usually just stuff rags in there and swirl them around on the walls. You probably won't get it looking silver on the inside ever unless you use a Dremel with a polishing wheel. It's ok though, any little bit helps.

    8. Before beginning to reinstall the valve, make sure it is completely dry. Install in the reverse order of the removal, making sure the gasket is properly installed (it is keyed, and you'll notice from the markings on the valve body which way it was oriented). To facilitate an easier installation, I recommend putting both bolts through the valve body and putting the gasket on with the valve still out of the car. Take the assembly and reach it under the intake manifold, feeling around for the bolt holes and starting the bolts by hand. Make sure you get the bolts nice and tight, but not so tight that you break them because that would ruin your day (note to kansei: look up FSM torque numbers). Remember to plug the connector back on to the EGR and reconnect the battery

    9. When you first start the car up, it will idle high and might sound funny because the ECU is re-learning everything since you sucked the life out of it's brain earlier. When the car is fully warmed up, take it for a quick jaunt around the block to make sure everything runs ok. If your idle doesn't seem any better or is worse than before you cleaned it, either the gasket is missing, not in the right position, the bolts aren't properly tightened, or the EGR is permanently damaged and cleaning it was futile (I haven't heard of this happening).

    zoom-zoom
    --Kansei

  2. #2
    Igloo Architect Z's Avatar
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    theres also the cdn EGR valve for those that are interested.

    its too early to tell if they work or not.
    Ammaar - Stock 03 Pro LX updated with some of that ish.

    It's the Second Law of Sexual Dynamics...if you think a girl is attracted to you, you are wrong

  3. #3
    o_________O daftIntrovert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z View Post
    theres also the cdn EGR valve for those that are interested.

    its too early to tell if they work or not.
    Yeah I'll put the part number and retail cost for that in.. I just copied and pasted this guide from where I originally posted it, and it's from long before the canadian revised one

    thanks for the reminder..

  4. #4
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    Just a bump. I picked up a can of cleaner that says it's specifically for EGR's and the like. It says it is not as tough as brake cleaner. I'll post again after I check it at home.

    I'll be cleaning mine tomorrow. If the "problem" returns, I'll be ordering an revamp'd EGR valve

    Tylor
    Protege to MX-5 lineage
    Kevin did it before Phil, who was before Andrew, before Bruce, Chris, Tony, Phen, Tylor, Mahk, Roy, John, Jerry, Rob, Shadow, Josh, Scratch, Dub, Andrew, Vocko, Matt V, and Protojason

  5. #5
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    im going going back back to cali cali
    i did it 3k miles ago, trying to fix my misfirey idle.

    turned out is a bad c3 wire.

    im gonna do this again during spring break... and probably also the IAC cleaning as well.
    2002.5 22v Mazda Protege5
    Ebay CAI w/ K&N filter
    OBX header
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    Tokico Blues
    Eibach Prokit
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    (burnout) ph34r teh 22v

  6. #6
    Headlights up, Top down. DemonIAm's Avatar
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    Need to do this, badly!

  7. #7
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    im going going back back to cali cali
    well jjust did this and cleaned the IAC.

    seemed to start up a bit smoother.

    will take it for a drive later. im planning on going out to get some wetsanding materials for my headlights. lookfor the how to!
    2002.5 22v Mazda Protege5
    Ebay CAI w/ K&N filter
    OBX header
    PG Catted midpipe
    RacingBeat CBE
    Tokico Blues
    Eibach Prokit
    KartBoy SS and bushing w/ Greddy Counterweight
    16x7 Rota Slipstreams w/ Hankook Ventus HR2 205/50/r16

    (burnout) ph34r teh 22v

  8. #8
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    im going going back back to cali cali
    oh... and wear gloves. my hands are cut up... lol
    2002.5 22v Mazda Protege5
    Ebay CAI w/ K&N filter
    OBX header
    PG Catted midpipe
    RacingBeat CBE
    Tokico Blues
    Eibach Prokit
    KartBoy SS and bushing w/ Greddy Counterweight
    16x7 Rota Slipstreams w/ Hankook Ventus HR2 205/50/r16

    (burnout) ph34r teh 22v

  9. #9
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    I still can't get the friggen bolts to budge. Hmmfff
    Protege to MX-5 lineage
    Kevin did it before Phil, who was before Andrew, before Bruce, Chris, Tony, Phen, Tylor, Mahk, Roy, John, Jerry, Rob, Shadow, Josh, Scratch, Dub, Andrew, Vocko, Matt V, and Protojason

  10. #10
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    im going going back back to cali cali
    this may sound dumb, but make sure your turning them the right way.

    the first time i did this it took me about all day to try to get it off, until later that night when i was in bed, and i realized i was turning the wrench the wrong way.

    i got out of bed. went into the garage, turned the bolt the other way and it came off like butter.

    the hardest part IMO is getting the socket on there.
    2002.5 22v Mazda Protege5
    Ebay CAI w/ K&N filter
    OBX header
    PG Catted midpipe
    RacingBeat CBE
    Tokico Blues
    Eibach Prokit
    KartBoy SS and bushing w/ Greddy Counterweight
    16x7 Rota Slipstreams w/ Hankook Ventus HR2 205/50/r16

    (burnout) ph34r teh 22v

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