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Thread: Fluid

  1. #11
    I plan on doing a drain in fill soon which will include a drop of the pan to install a new filter and the install of a tranny cooler.

    Given the fact that I am at 120k and honestly haven't done this myself since buying the car with 67k I planned on doing this quarterly for a year in hopes of removing all (or most) of the old fluid.

    My intention is to use Mobil1 synthetic but I am now wondering if it will be ok to use a substitute fluid (read - cheaper than $7.69qt) for these quarterly flushes and then use the Mobil1 around this time next year? Also would it be imperative that I replace the filter each time? It goes for about $45 thru onlinemazdaparts.

    My wallet is crying at the thought of using approx. $64 worth of fluid every 3months.

  2. #12
    You put on 30K miles every 3 months?! I've done 2 total flushes in the P5.. one at 30K and one at 60K.

  3. #13
    hahahaha...not even close. But since I have been neglect to change it myself in 53k and I don't know when/if the PO ever did I thought the quarterly or so intervals would help me in getting all of the old fluid out of there.

  4. #14
    No. No. No.

    First of all, call around locally to source a filter. I think NAPA had the best price locally- sub $30.

    Second, you can get damn near all of the fluid out the first time. When you drain and drop the pan, you'll get LOTS of fluid that normally wouldn't come out from just a usual drain. If you want to get even more fluid out, take the valve body out- lots of fluid hangs out on the top of it. And actually, you don't even need to take it out, just take out all but the 2 bolts on the forward-most end of the VB and loosen those a little bit so it can tilt down. But even then, doing all of that is a little unneccessary........

    After you've dropped the pan and changed the filter (don't forget to clean the sludge off the magnet on the oil pan!), bolt up the pan back up and fill with fluid. Then disconnect both of the cooler lines from the radiator. Route one into a small plastic bottle and the other to your mouth (yes, I'm serious) and blow. The cooler isn't all that big (part of its problem) and you can easily blow out the old fluid- I've done it. And actually, you can skip this step (see below).

    Next, reconnect the line to the radiator on the driver's side of the radiator. Route the passenger side radiator outlet into another clear plastic bottle (I'm 99% sure this nipple is the "cold" return to the transmission). Have an assistant start the engine and let it run for about 3-5 seconds or so. By that time, the bottle will be pretty full (depending on how big your bottle is). Replace that amount of old fluid with new fluid into the transmission. Start the engine again for 3-5 seconds. Repeat until the fluid coming out is about the same color as the fluid you're pouring back in. Super scientific, I know.

    And if you want to use the aux cooler in addition to the factory cooler- not a bad idea for winter time for where you live, then if the passenger side nipple is in fact pumping fluid into the bottle from the steps above, then attach a line here to go to the aux cooler. This way the fluid will actually get warmed up a little in the winter time by the radiator.

    I did this DIY flush and I think I bought 9 qts of fluid. Then you should be good for another 30,000 miles.

  5. #15
    Thank you Tom...this will save me much time and some money. I did buy a filter kit from Autozone that included the filter and a gasket for the pan for about $23. Returned it after finding out I want to use RTV vs the gasket. Guess I could discard the gasket and save myself $20 over the OEM.

    I have 3qts in the garage so I'll buy 6-7 more.
    Last edited by CTt3P5; 10-01-2009 at 11:53 AM.

  6. #16
    On 24/7, there is a how-to on it somewhere. It's called something like "diy ATF flush". It has some pics and maybe a little better description on how to do stuff. Really, it's pretty easy. The hardest part will be getting the rubber lines off the nipples- they will have fused themselves onto the metal nipples, not making a HUGE mess, and scraping all of the old gasket off.

    If you don't already, make sure you have some brake cleaner, a stiff wire brush, a putty knife (plastic perferrably) and some shop rags. Brake cleaner and the wire brush will make short work of getting the gasket off the pan. Brake cleaner and the shop rags should make getting the gasket off the transmission fairly easy- DON'T use the wire brush on that mating surface. Use the putty knife to slip between the pan and transmission to get it separated. Using a dead blow mallet or a piece of wood and a hammer against the side of the pan should break it free.

    Overall it's pretty easy, just REALLY messy. That ATF gets everywhere.

    Good luck.

    Have fun.

  7. #17
    Thanks for the both the tips and wishing me fun. I am sure it will be. lol

  8. #18
    And if you don't already have a shirt that can only be worn in the garage, you will probably soon have one. If you get ATF on your clothes, it doesn't seem to come off.

  9. #19
    Yea Tom pretty much said everything that I was going to. Check out both of our How-To's on installing the Valve Body and you'll get better idea on how to drop the pan, clean the magnet, lower the VB to let the extra ATF out, and clean and reseal the pan.

    Although I did use a wire brush dremmel attachement when cleaning the old gasket off the pan, but if brake cleaner takes it off real easy then go that route instead.

  10. #20
    Hello everyone, I'm even more confused now that I've this article, my dipstick also say's M V & I just assumed it was Mercon V. The link for the Mobil1 site doesn't work anymore so I can't see what type of oil I should use. I've been using the Mercon V since my oil cooler developed a leak & the coolant & oil mixed, but now the car takes long to change from 1st to 2nd especially when the car is cold. I suppose the oil is too thick or there is still some gunk in there because I didn't know how to drain the remaining oil left in the torque converter. I used about 25 litres of cheap trans fluid which I filled in & run the vehicle for a few km's & drained & refilled till the oil was clear & had no milky stuff left (I looked all over for a trans flush but couldn't find any). I am scared that I'm causing damage to the trans and any help regading this issue will be appreciated.

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