reserved.. just putting down some info for now.
Link to Flickr photoset
Purchased from www.safedrives.com (really cool site for car safety-related equipment). $64.99USD
- phillips screwdriver
- soldering iron
- heat gun (can use soldering iron)
- 10mm wrench (you should have dozens) --one open/box wrench, one socket/ratchet.
- dremel and a bunch of cutoff discs. Cutoff discs made specifically for plastic would be even better.
- 2 x hex bolts 6mm-1 0 x 20mm
- 2 x lock nuts 6mm-1 0
- 2 x flat washer 6mm (came in pack of 4)
Total Cost at Home Depot: $1.24 (w/ 8.5% sales tax). They didn't have stainless, just pathetic zinc plated. I would recommend getting these from a decent hardware store.
- 8 x female spade connectors for 12-10 gauge wire
- 1 x male spade connector for 12-10 gauge wire
- 3 x ring connectors (size??) for 12-10 gauge wire
- 1 x butt connector IF you're going the crimp connector route. Please solder
- 5-6m of 12-10 gauge wire.
- soldering supplies: lead-free solder, various sizes of shrinkwrap
- 4-post 30A Bosch relay that comes with the horns.
Wiring the Relay:
- 85 can be a small gauge wire, it goes to the stock horn wire. Since I didn't want to cut the factory harness (gotta keep my car 'stock' , this means wiring over to the stock horn location, 120cm should do it if you want the relay location to be where the fuse box is.
- 86 is ground, a heavy gauge wire (I used 10 for everything). 30-45cm since I just grounded to the ground point the negative terminal on the battery uses, using a ring connector that fit on the chassis stud and under the nut well.
- 87 is the power wire to the hella horns. Again 120cm long, but at 80-90cm you need to split it into two wires. I used 10 gauge for all of it, as even one 10 gauge wire is sufficient to power both horns.
- 30 on the relay goes to your power source. I don't like all sorts of messy wires going to my battery terminals, so I do everything to the main fuse (the one the positive cable from the battery goes to) with ring terminals. My subwoofer, head unit (since it draws too much power for the stock harness by a lot), radar detector, and now horns go there. Make sure to use an in-line fuse within 30cm of the start of that wire (the start being the side at the main fuse).
- The only wires not covered by this are the horn ground wires, which are pretty self explanatory. I used the stud on the upper radiator support that the stock horn attached to. Just make sure you clean up that area good before you do it, then protect it with some dielectric grease so it doesn't corrode.
Please note that I did have to trim more of the grille than is shown in the pictures. It fit ok like this but I didn't want the grille rubbing on the horns.