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Thread: Electrical work is obviously not my bag...help please

  1. #1

    Electrical work is obviously not my bag...help please

    Ok, so I decided today that I was going to wire my wideband and EBC in a more permanent way; I had them tapped into a cigarrete lighter adapter since I couldn't get to the cigarette lighter wires.

    So my cousin and I find where the cigarette wires go and it appers that they enter a bundle of wires that go towards the driver side and then up. The bundle we found heads straight up on the left side of the CD player consol or whatever that is called(if you are facing the front of the car).

    So, we find the wire that is the same as the one coming off of the cigarette lighter and tap that...yay gives power to the wideband and EBC, so we are all good it seems.

    Well now, the CD player does not work, doesn't even turn over (stock replaced unit, usually when they break they sit in the out position so I don't think this one has crapped out...yet). The CD player worked fine before we started this so again I don't think it is the unit itself. We pulled it out and checked all the wires, they are connected. Fuse is fine on CD player and in fuse box.

    So I start driving and my wideband decides to not work all the time, just displays 00.00 most of the time (it has done this before when I had it wired the other way, but 98% of the time it worked fine). When my car is off it will display a constant stream of numbers like it is supposed to.

    At this point I am pretty bummed out and make it home with no radio; I get out of my car at home and hit the lock button on my remote.......nothing happens. At this point I am too frustrated to even look at my car and go inside to cry to you all.

    The only thing that I messed with were the grounds. To ground both my wideband and my EBC I unbolted a 10mm nut that is on the passenger side, right above the floor mat on the right side if you were sitting in the seat; you have to take off the plastic cover on the floor to see it. It is a short bolt that holds a little bracket with two wires crimped to it; appears to be a ground for other components. It screws into the frame on a painted surface.

    As of now I am just hoping that it is the ground...but I doubt I am lucky enough for that to be the ground for both the CD player and the keyless entry system. But it is strange that my wideband is not working right when my car is running, but it is when the engine is off. The PLX wideband says it can draw up to 3amps and I guess that is a lot but hell, I don't know.

    Sorry for the long post, hope you made it through the whole thing.
    2003.5 MAZDASPEED Protege

    Microtech LT10s, WRX 440's, HiBoost FMIC, MAM catless midpipe, Corksport S+J pipes, PLX M-300 Wideband, Greddy Profec B Spec II, RR-Racing rear MM inserts, AWR Front MM, Injen SRI, Greddy Type-S BOV

  2. #2
    "Sweet Jesus Thats Loud!" BRIAN MP5T's Avatar
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    Find The Ignition wire from your "Key" with a multi meter and tap it.

    Do not exceed small items. If you plan to wire in Lights ETC. PM Me later. I will "Sexplain" how to use a relay.

  3. #3
    pdhaudio83
    Guest
    thats what I did. I tapped into my ignition wire, ADDED A 5 AMP fuse, and now my wideband and radar detector use it.

  4. #4
    i used a 12v wire from the alarm box to power my wideband

    i don't know about the wideband not working all the time problem ... but maybe there's just to much stuff pulling current from that wire? i dono =\
    07 Mazdaspeed6 Snowflake White
    95 Talon TSi AWD White
    86 RX7 GXL Old Crappy White
    White FTW!

  5. #5
    Always use ign+ (blue wire at ignition harness that gives 12v when car is started and running) or acc (black/red or black/white at harness which gives 12v anytime after key is past accessory [nonstarted or started]) for components. Tapping a cigarette lighter can work but you'll get a varied current and possibly overload it.

    Also, if you can't solder, use a 3M t-tap and make sure they are secured properly. All lines coming off of any power line for new accessories also need to have inline fuse holders.

    Check your "room" fuse for issues with keyless and radio not working.

  6. #6
    pdhaudio83
    Guest
    yep. start with a small fuse- IE- 2amp was enough for my wideband, but when I added one other thing, the 2amp fuse blew. I am now using a 5 amp inline fuse.

  7. #7
    Cool, thanks for all the suggestions. I will check the 'room' fuse, only one I looked at last night was the radio fuse.

    Also, wideband worked fine to and from school today so I am not sure what is up with that heh.

    I assume I can get the t-tap and inline fuses at Radio Shack?

    Thanks again
    2003.5 MAZDASPEED Protege

    Microtech LT10s, WRX 440's, HiBoost FMIC, MAM catless midpipe, Corksport S+J pipes, PLX M-300 Wideband, Greddy Profec B Spec II, RR-Racing rear MM inserts, AWR Front MM, Injen SRI, Greddy Type-S BOV

  8. #8
    T3ase wins! Room fuse blown. Whew, that makes me feel a lot better.
    2003.5 MAZDASPEED Protege

    Microtech LT10s, WRX 440's, HiBoost FMIC, MAM catless midpipe, Corksport S+J pipes, PLX M-300 Wideband, Greddy Profec B Spec II, RR-Racing rear MM inserts, AWR Front MM, Injen SRI, Greddy Type-S BOV

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by 03MSP
    T3ase wins! Room fuse blown. Whew, that makes me feel a lot better.
    Glad I could help and that was all that it was.

    Now, go to radio shack or somewhere and do the install properly!

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by 03MSP
    Ok, so I decided today that I was going to wire my wideband and EBC in a more permanent way; I had them tapped into a cigarrete lighter adapter since I couldn't get to the cigarette lighter wires.

    So my cousin and I find where the cigarette wires go and it appers that they enter a bundle of wires that go towards the driver side and then up. The bundle we found heads straight up on the left side of the CD player consol or whatever that is called(if you are facing the front of the car).

    So, we find the wire that is the same as the one coming off of the cigarette lighter and tap that...yay gives power to the wideband and EBC, so we are all good it seems.

    Well now, the CD player does not work, doesn't even turn over (stock replaced unit, usually when they break they sit in the out position so I don't think this one has crapped out...yet). The CD player worked fine before we started this so again I don't think it is the unit itself. We pulled it out and checked all the wires, they are connected. Fuse is fine on CD player and in fuse box.

    So I start driving and my wideband decides to not work all the time, just displays 00.00 most of the time (it has done this before when I had it wired the other way, but 98% of the time it worked fine). When my car is off it will display a constant stream of numbers like it is supposed to.

    At this point I am pretty bummed out and make it home with no radio; I get out of my car at home and hit the lock button on my remote.......nothing happens. At this point I am too frustrated to even look at my car and go inside to cry to you all.

    The only thing that I messed with were the grounds. To ground both my wideband and my EBC I unbolted a 10mm nut that is on the passenger side, right above the floor mat on the right side if you were sitting in the seat; you have to take off the plastic cover on the floor to see it. It is a short bolt that holds a little bracket with two wires crimped to it; appears to be a ground for other components. It screws into the frame on a painted surface.

    As of now I am just hoping that it is the ground...but I doubt I am lucky enough for that to be the ground for both the CD player and the keyless entry system. But it is strange that my wideband is not working right when my car is running, but it is when the engine is off. The PLX wideband says it can draw up to 3amps and I guess that is a lot but hell, I don't know.

    Sorry for the long post, hope you made it through the whole thing.
    Also, make a new ground for new toys, and make the ground as short as possible. How do you make a new ground? Use a self-tapping screw. Use a pair of crimpers, if you have them, and scratch off the paint where the ground will be. Remember, a ground needs as little resistance as possible to properly "disperse" the flow and having to go through paint isn't that effecient nor safe. All you have to scratch off is just the immediate area the head of the screw will be touching. Then put your ground on the screw and drill the mofo in so it's secure. *Always* use a proper eyelet or "O" connector when adding to a ground, don't just wrap the wire around the screw as I've seen many people do.

    That said, I try to stay away from the passengerside floor area with any and all electrical current. There's a pretty pricey computer right down in that area and I don't want my fuck up to lead to a screwed car.

    For my gauges, I hooked them up to my foglight switch (fogs have been removed from car) and then ran a wire to ign at the ignition harness. You can pull the plastic down under the steering wheel to see the wire and tap in to it. Then for the ground, there's a bracket right next to the steering column while you're looking for the ign wire on the passengerside of that column that's a good spot for a ground.

    With the connections tapped, or soldered preferrably, you can then turn your gauges on and off with a switch, perfect for nights when you wanna go "incognito".

    In addition to not using the cigarette wires, do not use the radio or hvac wires either. The blue/white remote turn on wire from your deck is *not* for toys, it's for an amp or audio stuff. The HVAC has a 12v going to it but I'm not sure what the amp rating on that line is and I surely don't wanna replace someones controls because of a short.

    Basically, any power wire in the radio console area is not ideal for accessories unless it's an amplifier for your deck, in which case hook it up to that wire. Use true IGN or ACC wires. While they may or may not be easier to get to (depending on what you're used to), they will provide the best and most secure power given the proper connections have been made.

    Eh, sorry for rambling, I just got done reinstalling a Pivot SSL-Pro, Greddy FATT, AEM WB02 and Greddy boost and soldering it all correctly as I should have before. Wires are on my mind.

    Oh, and get a test light or a multimeter if you plan on doing anything like this again. Both are very useful.

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