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Thread: -dave- Turbo Build Thread

  1. #1
    Member -dave-'s Avatar
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    -dave- Turbo Build Thread

    Well here we go folks. The day has finally arrived. I've been buying parts, studying and researching for a little over 14 months now. I took the advice of many and read Corky Bell's Maximum Boost. I also spent alot of time reading threads and posts from the greats of the Mazda forums. I have a ton of bookmarked stuff and hope to make this install as smooth as possible.

    Background: I started out going with "I'll just build a stock MSP turbo kit" route that so many have tried. Halfway through I realized how big of an ordeal it really was and began to go way over what I initally started . I feel I have taken a few good (but appropriate) safety measures such as a SplitSecond AFC (V1) and a AEM wideband. I need a reliable set up as this is my daily driver.
    I drive 50 miles (round trip) to work 5 days a week and around town on the weekends. Most of my drive (to work) is stop and go rush hour interstate traffic. With that out of the way let me detail my turbo kit.

    The Set-UP
    Turbo - GT25 (not from a MSP) re-clocked to fit
    Manifold - Stock MSP
    S Pipe - Stock MSP
    Intercooler - MAM
    MSP ECU - Reflashed
    SplitSecond AFC (V1)
    HKS SSQV BOV
    Hardpipes - Custom built 2 1/2" OD x 16 ga. tube (to be fully welded to minimize couplers)
    ***Note: Found a source to powdercoat hardpipes - $2.00 per linear foot
    McMaster Carr - DIY vacuum block and lines
    Oil & Water Lines - From xelderx's part out (including oil pan with bung)
    0000-88-C67 - MSP one way check valve

    MSP LSD - To be welded next week
    Exedy Stage 1 Clutch - (ordered from ProtegeGarage this morning)

    ForceFed custom steering column (dual pod)
    ForceFed custom radio bezel (dual pod)
    Autometer single gauge pod (for the wideband)
    Prosport Gauges - Boost, Oil, EGT Temp & Water Temp
    Gauge Placement.....(let me know if you have any other suggestions)
    Wideband will be placed in the single pillar pod
    Boost and Oil will be placed in the steering column pod
    EGT and Water Temp will be placed in the radio bezel

    I have it set up like this for several reasons. Mainly, I wanted to keep all of the Prosport gauges together due to their color coordination and for the opening and closing ceremonies...YouTube - Prosport Gauges - Opening & Closing Ceremony.
    The wideband will be out by itself (in the pillar) but easy to keep an eye on.

  2. #2
    Member -dave-'s Avatar
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    I'm going to start today cutting the hard pipes and getting the FMIC mounted up. I need to get the pipes welded and powdercoated next week. When I start the install I would like all parts and pieces ready to install.

    I know things are going to pop up. I know I can't plan for everything.....but I'd like to do my best to limit the emergencies.

  3. #3
    Member -dave-'s Avatar
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    Reserved 2

  4. #4
    That sounds a lot like my build minus the AFC and MSP ECU. Since I'm automatic, I'll probably be taking the BEGi & FM voltage clamp route instead. Good luck man, I'm looking forward to following this so I can learn what NOT to do from you

  5. #5
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    Wanna trade your flashed MSP ecu for my unflashed MSP ecu before you get up and running.. since you'll be running the splitsecond and all...

    I've been told you have more wiggle room with the unflashed since stock it runs a lot richer.
    Build Thread - 2016 Fiesta ST, never driven but frequently modded

  6. #6
    Member -dave-'s Avatar
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    I'll think about it Chris.

  7. #7
    Member -dave-'s Avatar
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    I have a few quick questions....

    1. If I'm running a HKS SSQV BOV, there's no nead for the stock BPV right? I've seen it done several ways....just thought I would clarify.

    Note: I plan to run TB --> MAF --> BOV --> rest of pipe to FMIC

    2. I have a MBC. What is the best way to plumb it? Between the wastegate and vacuum block? I read that somewhere today.

    3. Approximately how long should the oil feed line be? I bought mine pre made from another member with the BNPT fitting and AN fitting already attached. For some reason it looks a little short.
    Last edited by -dave-; 12-16-2007 at 08:47 PM.

  8. #8
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    1. you won't need the stock BPV at all, just the SSQV. Just make as much room as possible between the SSQV and the MAF. I have like 4 inches and it runs fine (has never stalled) but more is good.

    2. Manual boost controller.. yes between the wastegate and the vacuum source (it's also directional.. at least mine is.. so make sure it points the right way). Put it as close to the wastegate actuator as you can comfortably. Mine is mounted on that bracket in front of the oil cap.
    3. I think mine is 3 feet, and that was plenty? Going from the oil pressure feed on the back of the block, but to a distribution block that feeds the stock oil pressure sender (to eliminate that dummy light), an aftermarket oil pressure sender, and the turbo oil feed.

    This is the kit I'm using http://stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-feed.shtml for the feed. I wouldn't touch their drain stuff with a 10ft pole.

    For drain just buy the appropriate function7 fitting for your turbo (buy the male, not the female), and make or have a -10AN line made.
    Build Thread - 2016 Fiesta ST, never driven but frequently modded

  9. #9
    Member -dave-'s Avatar
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    I made the 10 AN oil return today with both fittings. I've heard alot of complaints about cutting and gerneral assembly. I have to tell you I had really good luck. I cut it with a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cut-off disk. Cut like hot butter. It actually looks really good!

    I'll have to check I don't think the feed is quite 3ft long. I got it from xelderx and it was installed on his P5 turbo so it worked for him.

    Thanks for the replies Chris! That helps tremendously. Like I said....I've done alot of research and studying but I still plan on doing a whole lot of verifying and clarifying.

  10. #10
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    It's better to do it now than when you're desperately trying to finish so that the car can drive again :P

    If I were to do it again I would have done it in incremental phases on the weekend rather than all at once.

    One weekend upgrade the clutch, get it broken in, next weekend install the coolant and oil lines (capped off), next weekend wire up gauges/wideband/etc, one weekend do other prep work and test fit the manifold/turbo assembly, etc.

    I got it done in under two weeks but it was so annoying because most of that time was spent waiting on emergency parts orders and stuff.

    Do you have AN wrenches? That'd be good to pick up. I just read about new adjustable AN wrenches in Sportscar mag yesterday, but they're pricey. Summit has pretty cheap sets of them.
    Build Thread - 2016 Fiesta ST, never driven but frequently modded

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