KrayzieFox
09-01-2008, 04:16 PM
This tutorial is meant to assist you with replacing the rear pads and rotors on a Protege5 as well as troubleshoot problems with the install. The install time may vary from 1-2 hours to 6 hours if all your bolts are seized up. So be prepared for the worst case scenario if you live in a harsh climate where rust is known to dominate your world.
Tools you will need:
-PB Blaster (lots & lots of PB..)
-Brake Cleaner
-10mm & 14mm sockets
-Allen wrench
-Rubber mallet
-Regular hammer (optional, helps break rust)
-Jack stands (very important!!)
Step 1:
Jack up the rear end of the car by placing the jack on the rear crossmember, this way you jack up the entire rear evenly. Place jack stands on each side, and take off the rear wheels.
PADS ONLY
Step 2a:
Take off the rubber cap at the top of the caliper and undo the 10mm bolt. You can now open up the caliper and expose the pads for easy replacement (mine is a bit seized up cuz of rust, but you get the point from the picture).
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2887&stc=1&d=1220297802
Step 3a:
With the new pads in, you will now need to retract the brake piston so you can fit the pads on the rotor. There is a small 14mm bolt in the back of the caliper that you will need to undo in order to expose the piston bolt. Once exposed, you will need to use an allen wrench to retract the piston.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2888&stc=1&d=1220297802
Step 4a:
With the brake piston fully retracted, go ahead and close the caliper then secure it with the 10mm bolt you undid in part 2a. Then go ahead and tighten the piston allen bolt so it's nice and secure. DO NOT OVERTORQUE THIS BOLT!! Once you get it hand tight, loosen it 1/4 of a turn or else you won't be able to move once you start the car.
PADS AND ROTORS
Step 2b:
If you're going to replace the rotors as well, there is no need to undo the 10mm bolt from step 2a in order to open the caliper. If yours isn't rusted and opens easily, then go ahead and do it anyway cuz it does make replacing pads easier. But if you live in the rust belt like I do, then go ahead and just undo the 2 14mm bolts that hold the brake caliper to the spindle instead.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2889&stc=1&d=1220297802
Step 3b:
Take off the caliper and take out the old pads (they just slide out of the caliper) and put in the new pads just the way you took out the old ones.
*IMPORTANT* Depending on the type of pads you get, you may need to remove the shims of the old pads and place them on the new ones. It's just a thin piece of metal that goes on the outside of the pads, and a lot of aftermarket performance pads will come with them (as pictured below). If not, use the shims off your old pads.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2895&stc=1&d=1220318743
Step 4b:
With the new pads in, go ahead and set aside the caliper. You will now need to take off the old rotor. As you can see my crap is all sorts of rusted, so using PB Blaster around the area where the rotor meets the hub will help a lot. Spray it down and let it soak for 15 mins or so. While it's soaking, you can go ahead and take off the caliper and replace the pads on the other side.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2890&stc=1&d=1220297802
Step 5b:
Using a rubber mallet go ahead and hammer on the rotor to break it loose from the hub. I had to use a real hammer on mine to get the rust to break free, and then the rubber one did the rest of the work. Just don't hammer too hard with an actual metal hammer, you might possibly damage the wheel bearings.
Step 6b:
The last step is to put everything back together. What I suggest you do is insert the rotor in between the pads, and then put the caliper and rotor back on the hub as one unit. It's much easier to get the rotor in between the pads, than to get the pads onto the rotor once the rotor is already installed on the hub. Secure the caliper using the two 14mm bolts you undid in part 2b, then tighten the piston bolt using an allen wrench as described in part 4a.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2891&stc=1&d=1220299460
Step 7:
Lastly, you should spray down the rotor with some brake cleaner and wipe off all the grime and grease you left on the rotors from your greasy hands. You don't want this stuff to burn into the pads, and if you leave the brakes all greasy they'll smoke like crazy when you start to break them in. Then put the wheels back on and go for a ride.
*IMPORTANT* This reminds me. Once installed, you will want to make sure that the pads get broken in properly before you start doing any heavy duty braking. What you want to do is start slow by going 20 mph then slow down to stop, go up to 25 mph and slow down, then 30 mph and slow down.. and keep going in 5 mph increments up to 60 or 65. Just be gentle on the pedal as you're breaking them in and you shouldn't have any excessive smoking or anything.
*E-brake Note* If for some reason your e-brake doesn't work after replacing the rear brakes, you will need to recalibrate it by driving in reverse and stopping a few times. Find a nice empty parking lot and do a bunch of reverse stops at various speeds and that should take care of it. 10 or so stops took care of it for me.
Tools you will need:
-PB Blaster (lots & lots of PB..)
-Brake Cleaner
-10mm & 14mm sockets
-Allen wrench
-Rubber mallet
-Regular hammer (optional, helps break rust)
-Jack stands (very important!!)
Step 1:
Jack up the rear end of the car by placing the jack on the rear crossmember, this way you jack up the entire rear evenly. Place jack stands on each side, and take off the rear wheels.
PADS ONLY
Step 2a:
Take off the rubber cap at the top of the caliper and undo the 10mm bolt. You can now open up the caliper and expose the pads for easy replacement (mine is a bit seized up cuz of rust, but you get the point from the picture).
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2887&stc=1&d=1220297802
Step 3a:
With the new pads in, you will now need to retract the brake piston so you can fit the pads on the rotor. There is a small 14mm bolt in the back of the caliper that you will need to undo in order to expose the piston bolt. Once exposed, you will need to use an allen wrench to retract the piston.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2888&stc=1&d=1220297802
Step 4a:
With the brake piston fully retracted, go ahead and close the caliper then secure it with the 10mm bolt you undid in part 2a. Then go ahead and tighten the piston allen bolt so it's nice and secure. DO NOT OVERTORQUE THIS BOLT!! Once you get it hand tight, loosen it 1/4 of a turn or else you won't be able to move once you start the car.
PADS AND ROTORS
Step 2b:
If you're going to replace the rotors as well, there is no need to undo the 10mm bolt from step 2a in order to open the caliper. If yours isn't rusted and opens easily, then go ahead and do it anyway cuz it does make replacing pads easier. But if you live in the rust belt like I do, then go ahead and just undo the 2 14mm bolts that hold the brake caliper to the spindle instead.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2889&stc=1&d=1220297802
Step 3b:
Take off the caliper and take out the old pads (they just slide out of the caliper) and put in the new pads just the way you took out the old ones.
*IMPORTANT* Depending on the type of pads you get, you may need to remove the shims of the old pads and place them on the new ones. It's just a thin piece of metal that goes on the outside of the pads, and a lot of aftermarket performance pads will come with them (as pictured below). If not, use the shims off your old pads.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2895&stc=1&d=1220318743
Step 4b:
With the new pads in, go ahead and set aside the caliper. You will now need to take off the old rotor. As you can see my crap is all sorts of rusted, so using PB Blaster around the area where the rotor meets the hub will help a lot. Spray it down and let it soak for 15 mins or so. While it's soaking, you can go ahead and take off the caliper and replace the pads on the other side.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2890&stc=1&d=1220297802
Step 5b:
Using a rubber mallet go ahead and hammer on the rotor to break it loose from the hub. I had to use a real hammer on mine to get the rust to break free, and then the rubber one did the rest of the work. Just don't hammer too hard with an actual metal hammer, you might possibly damage the wheel bearings.
Step 6b:
The last step is to put everything back together. What I suggest you do is insert the rotor in between the pads, and then put the caliper and rotor back on the hub as one unit. It's much easier to get the rotor in between the pads, than to get the pads onto the rotor once the rotor is already installed on the hub. Secure the caliper using the two 14mm bolts you undid in part 2b, then tighten the piston bolt using an allen wrench as described in part 4a.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2891&stc=1&d=1220299460
Step 7:
Lastly, you should spray down the rotor with some brake cleaner and wipe off all the grime and grease you left on the rotors from your greasy hands. You don't want this stuff to burn into the pads, and if you leave the brakes all greasy they'll smoke like crazy when you start to break them in. Then put the wheels back on and go for a ride.
*IMPORTANT* This reminds me. Once installed, you will want to make sure that the pads get broken in properly before you start doing any heavy duty braking. What you want to do is start slow by going 20 mph then slow down to stop, go up to 25 mph and slow down, then 30 mph and slow down.. and keep going in 5 mph increments up to 60 or 65. Just be gentle on the pedal as you're breaking them in and you shouldn't have any excessive smoking or anything.
*E-brake Note* If for some reason your e-brake doesn't work after replacing the rear brakes, you will need to recalibrate it by driving in reverse and stopping a few times. Find a nice empty parking lot and do a bunch of reverse stops at various speeds and that should take care of it. 10 or so stops took care of it for me.