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View Full Version : 13B RX7 Porting work... a how to


SpooledupRacing
08-28-2008, 09:46 AM
OK I dont have any pictures as of yet but I plan to build this how to so that ANYONE can do a port job on your rotor housings and engine irons.

First off I recomend you buy a template.. I have seen people do ports by guess work and yes even by measuring the lenght and width off of the computer screen and coping them onto their irons...

IF you make a mistake and scar the face or hit the water jacket the port is junk..


A few things u need to know.. Size is a plus but how EFFICIENT the port is and how smooth the port is makes the job more crutial. It dont matter how big the port is.. if the cut is bad or the angle is off the port will not flow efficiently..

Start off with an Iron in good useable shape (or do a test run on a junk iron)

Buy a template from a WELL KNOWN source... I recommend www.pineappleracing.com because there ports are PRE CUT and conservitive which will give u some room to play with and to refine.

Medium 13BT street port iron template
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/turboTSI/Turbo%20engine/S4T2SPtemplate.jpg

Street Port 13BT exhaust port template
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/turboTSI/Turbo%20engine/Pineappleexhaustporttemp.jpg

I used a medium street port template on my S5 13BT housings and irons and then I made theport a bit bigger for improved flow.. HOWEVER you can use the 13B-REW template on the S4-S5 irons and that will give u a large port.

Clean the surface off VERY WELL with brake cleaner and a soft town to get any oils off the surface of the iron

You want to begin with laying the iron flat (on a clean STABILE surface) then u lay the template on the iron and use your 2 dowl pins to hold the template in place.

Outline the port to the edge of the template with a sharpie


I also recomend u get a roll of Painters tape and cover the entire face of the iron BEFORE u start to cut (dont gover the port/outline) this will help from damaging the surface of the iron when (yes when it will happen) your bit comes out of the port and skipps along the face of the iron

like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/turboTSI/Turbo%20engine/Photo_022408_001.jpg


use a die grinder with CARBIDE strait bits (I used 4-5 for the entire engine)

and turn the grinder on high and keep the bit as strait up and down as u can as u slowly cut into the iron and around the marking (dont go all the way to the edge of yrou marking.. leave some room for fine tuning

Here is a shot of me during the cutting procedure
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/turboTSI/Turbo%20engine/Photo_022408_002.jpg

when u have done the cutting u then want to get some sand paper and a few stones on yrou die grinder and begin to shape the port and clean up the edges so it is a smooth transition from the outter port into the face of the iron (no sharpe turns)

A few shots of my ports AFTER I ported them
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/turboTSI/Turbo%20engine/rearironportjob.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/turboTSI/Turbo%20engine/rearironportjob2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/turboTSI/Turbo%20engine/rearironintakeport.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/turboTSI/Turbo%20engine/Photo_022408_003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/turboTSI/Turbo%20engine/IMIfrtportjob.jpg

notice the chatter marks from the bit skipping, this did go into the path but did not gouge and did not effect the plate
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v88/turboTSI/Turbo%20engine/IMIrearportjob.jpg



..

more to come when I have free time including pics!