P5 trans woes

[iracemine]

from start to finish I will be periodically uploading pics and stuff and my guess and thoughts about my trans.

I actually have in car video of me loosing third gear. but thats just how its starts. at the track (gingerman) I can use all of the other gears except third. when I got home I had no reverse, 1st, or nutrual??? now a week later I have no clutch???????

no plans yet in stone (except fidenza flywheel). just what to get it out of the car to look see what happened. if indeed third gear is needed Im thinking of par straight cut gear. and stock whatever else.

so far I have all but the axle out because the ball joint is stuck on and the axel wont think of moving, so there soaking in PB for the night. if any of you have any experience that could help I would love to hear it.

so subscribe and watch the fun:popcorn::popcorn:

[Probin94]

shitty

[iracemine]

ok. just got done taking trans out now:Kick: the how tos' are a littile vauge. not to happy with what they left out so Ill share the bs in the am with pics. past bet time for now. late......

[TheMAN]

smart place to put those jackstands :rolleyes:

[BRIAN MP5T]

I have to agree with edwin, you can see two metal tabs that would be used for towing on the left and right side of where you have.

If you Must support from the front they are better, Personally, jack and stand from the side along the folded ridge, don't catch the side skirt.

[iracemine]

I would have liked to put them on the sub-frame but they would have slipped off. also I thought about putting them on the side like you said but they would have gotten in the way. wasn't happy with putting them up onto the rad support but it is giving me the greatest room and ease. I wont be getting in the car and if the frame bends im not going to cry when the panels don't match up, they don't now. the car has seen a tire wall or two in its lifetime.

[iracemine]

so anyways. after a couple nights of PB blaster the axle just popped right out with a slite tap, but the lower ball joint was a bitch. I pickle forked it to no avail. I finally had to take the bolt out all the way and rammed a wedge into the spindle to spread it and then work the ball joint out. also I had taken the rotor and the caliper off because I did not want to ruin my hawk blues and brembo rotors. Ill have to go get another boot to put on the bitch when time comes for reassembly. but with 14K on the car its in good shape.

I read one guy lowered this side of the motor to help out with pulling the trans, so with that in mind and my nice new obx header I popped it off the rest of the exhaust and then found that it was also easer to remove the mid pipe and unbolt the mid bearing for the pass side axle. by doing this I was able to drop the trany down past the sub frame on the drivers side and the tranny came right out with no fuss or twisting or busting seals. I used the trans jack on the motor so I can raise and lower it easily (go buy one) and the trans I just left it on my lap. on pulling the axle out I did notice that I had to use my pry bar to pop the axle out from the drivers side with some force.

so on to the flywheel and tear down. here is some more pics

[TheMAN]

I have to agree with edwin, you can see two metal tabs that would be used for towing on the left and right side of where you have.

If you Must support from the front they are better, Personally, jack and stand from the side along the folded ridge, don't catch the side skirt.
there's more chances of the jack stands slipping and having the car fall on you or at least damaging the car by having the jack stands on the tow hooks... they are NOT designed to hold the car's weight... there's a reason why the designated locations are at the end of the rocker panels

it's not that big of an impediment having them at the proper locations.... I rather work safe and having some difficulty than risking my life

[TheMAN]

so anyways. after a couple nights of PB blaster the axle just popped right out with a slite tap, but the lower ball joint was a bitch. I pickle forked it to no avail. I finally had to take the bolt out all the way and rammed a wedge into the spindle to spread it and then work the ball joint out. also I had taken the rotor and the caliper off because I did not want to ruin my hawk blues and brembo rotors. Ill have to go get another boot to put on the bitch when time comes for reassembly. but with 14K on the car its in good shape.

I read one guy lowered this side of the motor to help out with pulling the trans, so with that in mind and my nice new obx header I popped it off the rest of the exhaust and then found that it was also easer to remove the mid pipe and unbolt the mid bearing for the pass side axle. by doing this I was able to drop the trany down past the sub frame on the drivers side and the tranny came right out with no fuss or twisting or busting seals. I used the trans jack on the motor so I can raise and lower it easily (go buy one) and the trans I just left it on my lap. on pulling the axle out I did notice that I had to use my pry bar to pop the axle out from the drivers side with some force.

so on to the flywheel and tear down. here is some more pics
it is unnecessary to remove the spindle off the car or disconnect the ball joint to get the axle out... unbolting the spindle from the strut, then rotating the assembly left or right while prying the control arm down always gives barely enough room to get the axle off the spindles on the protege

the more unnecessary work, the more chances of shit fucking up

[iracemine]

notes taken.

[iracemine]

so I got the tranny down to my basement shop. and got to tear into it and am verry happy to find all gears ok!!!! however I have a couple of busted gear selector parts. I think I recall some sort of TSB on this shit so I will have to look into getting the updated parts and if I can even get them under the TSB. I sometimes remember that the car needs to be there and the dealer needs to perform the work or some bs like that.

question for the pros; my car does not list much on launches since after filling MM with epoxy and installing a roll bar so it doesent suffer much from the onetirefire syndrome. would going with a LSD be any real help in road racing, or is this mainly for straight line help???????

first pic is of the shop
second pic is first sing of trouble
third pic is of broken parts

[MazdaTom]

With an LSD, you'll be able to get on the power sooner and actually pull yourself out of a corner instead of drifting to the outside. An LSD is a wise upgrade on a car that sees as much track time as yours.

[pdhaudio83]

so I got the tranny down to my basement shop. and got to tear into it and am verry happy to find all gears ok!!!! however I have a couple of busted gear selector parts. I think I recall some sort of TSB on this shit so I will have to look into getting the updated parts and if I can even get them under the TSB. I sometimes remember that the car needs to be there and the dealer needs to perform the work or some bs like that.

question for the pros; my car does not list much on launches since after filling MM with epoxy and installing a roll bar so it doesent suffer much from the onetirefire syndrome. would going with a LSD be any real help in road racing, or is this mainly for straight line help???????

first pic is of the shop
second pic is first sing of trouble
third pic is of broken parts

I wouldn't waste your breath trying to get Mazda to cover your parts under warranty.

Yeah, the forks have been revised.

[iracemine]

so I was told you might know the part numbers for this revision or hopefully a link to find out where I (or future viewers) where I could get these numbers????

[iracemine]

cool. today was a me day so no working at all on jack shit.... well maybe this vid of me loosing third gear and having a blast too:honda:

YouTube - protege 5 lossing third gear

[DemonIAm]

Nice vid!!!

[Red5_02]

WTF? there are some bad drivers out there

[iracemine]

yeah I had the least amount of power yet I was lapping people, I guess its just test and tune so....whatever

[iracemine]

alright.... got approved for mazdaspeed motor sports development with a phone call. about 76 bucks in parts will get me back on the track again. however with most of the sub-frame removed I bought a RB front sway bar from another member. and will I am at it I cant decipher which is the msp diff and what is the P5 dif at the web page. the part numbers are all the same but the money is diff. Its almost like they want you to call in and shop with someone. and I could purchase a couple hub clutches too because I think they are worn, but cant tell. If I took pics would someone recognize it?? also trying to buy a fidenza flywheel from PG but I get no call backs or returned PMs.

getting close to reasembly:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:

[iracemine]

OK. got the trans back together, but not in. while I was at it I put in a msp front sway bar, fidenza flywheel, and filled in the trans mount and the rear engine mount with epoxy. I had done this with the front engine mount and saw great improvements with reduction in wheel hop and more firm shifting. but my biggest problem was that the rear mount would not come out. well it still didnt. so I fount this epoxy that mixed while you poured it which made getting it in the tight space much easier. after that the trans went back together with just new forks. maybe next time Ill go with a LSD and new syc hubs. after I get the trans back in Ill fill in the last engine mount (pass side). and then off to test and tune again. Here are some pics of the reassembly. I noticed it was a total pain to get all four things lined up at the same time when going back in to trans. but here is a pic for future reference!!!

[BRIAN MP5T]

Awesome!