3g Protege: How To - Motor mount replacement (missing rear at this point)

[kansei]

someone on another forum wanted a quick synopsis so here's what I made up on the spot:

Front: reach under car, two bolts (17mm I think). then a bolt through the middle of the mount (stock intake stuff might be in the way ). Don't jack the car up, it'll make it hard when it doesn't need to be. with the car level there's no tension on the mount.

Passenger Side: support the engine --I used blocks of wood on a floor jack under the oil pan, wouldn't really recommend this I'm sure there's a better way (engine hoist would be one better way for sure). undo bolts holding bracket to engine (3 bolts.. will need a deep socket, and I think 17mm again). Then there's a couple small bolts holding a brace to the mount, then two bolts holding the mount to the chassis.

Drivers Side: support the transmission (same as above applies). Remove the strut tower brace (17mm I think), battery (10mm on tie down and terminals), and battery tray (10mm again, but deep socket or extension may be needed for one or two bolts). Unbolt old mount, remove, bolt new mount in. The bracket mounted to the transmission does not need to be removed but it can be if you want.

I can take pics and stuff if someone wants me to (well I'm sure I already have all the pics I need just gotta dig through them). I just figured this is a how-to that should probably exist on here for new members.

[DemonIAm]

Front Motor Mount:

Is located at the front of the engine, near the base of the radiator on the driver's side. Park the car on a flat surface, there is no need to ramp, or jack up the car.

Here is a pic of the new mount installed. the factory one is solid black.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2237&stc=1&d=1213842792

There are 3 bolts that you must remove. I highly recommend spraying these three bolts down with PB Blaster, or it's equivalent an hour or 2 before beginning work. The first 2 bolts are under the front of the car.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2239&stc=1&d=1213842792

Then you must remove the crossbolt which runs through the center of the mount itself. You will need to remove the stock air intake for room. you can either take this bolt off from above the car, or from below. if you do it from below, you might need to remove the under skirting.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2238&stc=1&d=1213842792

Here is a pic of my sock mount. It is all busted up!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3087/2591895262_57e20acee9_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3214/2591060555_d4b8fea086_b.jpg

[DemonIAm]

OK, DAMMIT!!!! I can not for the life of me get the cross bolt out of the front mount. I have snapped 1 extension, and busted one ratchet's internals trying to get that bolt out. PB Blaster did nothing.... the bolt is not rusted at all, it just will not move. I tried breaker bar with cheater, leg power, everything.

If this is the easiest mount to get out, then I am fucked...

any ideas?
I guess need someone local with an airgun..

[kansei]

it is the easiest. Here's a trick.. don't at all jack up the car. If the car is jacked up or on an uphill, it won't work.

[DemonIAm]

not jacked up at all... lemme move to flater land and try...

[DemonIAm]

it's not a matter of the bolt being stuck in the rubber, the mount is loose as can be. I am parked on a flat lot.. The problem is the nut on the bolt going through the rubber, that I can not get off.
I called a local shop, and the guy told me to swing by and he'd pop it with the airgun. so I headed over, and now he's too busy to do it today. ghey...

[kansei]

yeah I could see that nut getting rusted and such. It is really close to the ground after all.

I always use an 18" breaker bar on it for what it's worth.

[njaremka]

the nut is "locked" to the bracket, you should only have to unscrew the bolt. once the bolt is free, then the nut comes out. (at least thats how i remember it)

[kansei]

the bolt is "locked" to the bracket (square head) and only the nut moves, as I remember it.

[njaremka]

i knew it was one of those

[MazdaTom]

I had to attack mine with my impact gun after I removed both radiator fans. I tried it without the impact and it wasn't budging.

[DemonIAm]

DONE! I guess PB Blaster needed a few hours to do it's thing... the sock mount was ripped completely on one side and the other side was severely degraded and ready to rip.

[mzdalvr]

Woot! good job D! Can't wait to hear your thoughts on the new mounts.

[pro5x2]

Dude, I spray any bolts with PB day before. Gives it time to work. Can't just spray it and attack! http://www.clubpenguinfansite.com/forums/images/smilies/uglyhammer_2.gif

[DemonIAm]

OMG. having only one good mount is awfully shakey. At standstills, and in reverse my car feels like it has Parkinsons.

[pro5x2]

I feel your pain. I can't wait for the inserts to show!!!

My rear is Def. torn or failed. Car has MASSIVE wheel hop every so often. Gotta get it replaced! I have the AWR rear in my glovebox too! It's killing me!

[mzdalvr]

OMG. having only one good mount is awfully shakey. At standstills, and in reverse my car feels like it has Parkinsons.

yay! demon's on the dark side now! give them about a week or two and it will feel better. i found that my grille was a shakin' a lot at first. using some double-sided mounting squares works great for things like that.

[CulRidr]

Chris,
If you wanted to "bridge in" the rear motor mount how-to from FlyingProtegé, that would take care of the title as it stands now...

[DemonIAm]

I hope to have mine done this weekend, or next week... I'll try to get good pics

[DemonIAm]

DRIVER SIDE INSERT

For the most part, follow Chris' directions. I sprayed down the bolts with PB B'laster about 4 hours before doing the job. I removed the through-bolt first, and then the 4 (14mm) bolts which hold the mount to the fender well. Once I pulled the mount out, I removed the 2 side inserts and set them aside.

Then I sprayed the hell out of the inside of the mount with some WD40. You could use grease, or whatever lube you like. Then put in one insert at a time. Mine were an absolute pain to get all of the way in.

Once both inserts are in, you might want a heavy 1 hand hammer, a pry bar, and some more lube. your mount is a lot bigger than the space it needs to fit into, but it will go. I just got the edge of one side in first and then squeezed/pushed the other side in.

Now, your main trick is to get the center hole lined up, and get the through-bolt back in. I used a hammer to tap it around, and a small prybar to help get everything lined up. Get the bolt in there, but don't fully torque it down yet.

now you need to get the 14mm bolts lined back up. This can be a chore, but just go slow and you'll get it. I used the hammer to tap the mounting plate around. I also needed to raise/lower the transmission 1 or 2 times before I got all the bolts in their correct places. once all the bolts are in their holes, torque them down. Don't forget the through-bolt.
Re-install your battery tray, battery, air intake, etc. Now you are 1 step closer to done.

[DemonIAm]

PASSENGER SIDE INSERTS.

Follow Chris' instructions for removal.

Once you have the mount off, you'll notice the big freaking mounting flare sticking out of the side. You need to lube this big boy up. Now look at your 2 insert pieces. One is thicker than the other. Grab the thinner insert, and stretch it onto the mounting flange. Work slowly and it will go. I used the edge of my desk to help slide it on. Once you are over the flange, you need to lube up the mount and slide the insert in. Big prong into the big hole, and small one in the small hole. This one shold get pretty flush with the bracket.

Now lube and slide in the other insert into the back side of the mount. The center hole on mine did not align with the center of my mount, so I just got it in there as best as I could. I don't think it will be much of a problem. Slide in a zip tie through each ofthe small openings on the insert. Push them through the inner inserts, and then tighten them down as best as possible.

Now you can re-install as normal. You may need to re-adjust your jack (raise/lower) to get the bolts line up.

[kansei]

thanks for the additions! I'll have to merge them in with the first post somewhere

[pro5x2]

Alright, just started shooting my sidemotor mounts to put the inserts in, and, well, i think i found something odd.

Anyone notice if something is missing from teh passenger side motor mount?

passenger side MM (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3116/2682813606_2c9c65e4bd_b.jpg)


Another angle (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2682813602_abb8f15077_b.jpg)

[DemonIAm]

Nope, that's how it looks..

That mount does not have a crossbolt. It has that big ass bracket sticking in the right hand side (from the front of the car) that comes off with it. You slide the thinner of the inserts over that bracket. Lube, and a steady surface, like a table edge will help you.

[TreFlip999]

http://www.clubpenguinfansite.com/forums/images/smilies/uglyhammer_2.gif

ZOMG! Best smiley eva :D

[DemonIAm]

...so, how'd it go for ya?

[chico]

hey D after installing the mounts, did the car stop to vibrate much with the only good one?

[DemonIAm]

Still more than stock, but not so bad. It actually got a little better after a thousand miles or so. I do need to get my rear finished

[KrayzieFox]

Yea the rear is the only one left for me too. I'm waiting to put in a VTCS-less IM at the same time though.. I guess the rear mount is easiest to do with the IM taken out.

[kansei]

Yea the rear is the only one left for me too. I'm waiting to put in a VTCS-less IM at the same time though.. I guess the rear mount is easiest to do with the IM taken out.

with the IM out there sure is more room to access it. Other items to install while the IM is off include the engine block heater. :)

[chico]

Still more than stock, but not so bad. It actually got a little better after a thousand miles or so. I do need to get my rear finished

Oh so intalling the three mount reduced the vibes than just having the front one installed.

[KrayzieFox]

with the IM out there sure is more room to access it. Other items to install while the IM is off include the engine block heater. :)

Ooh nice!! Thanks for the suggestion Chris, I'll look into that. Did you drill into the block when installing yours, or is there a convenient tap already in place somewhere?

Also gonna install the NSN thermal spacer while I'm at it.. we'll see if it really makes a difference like they say it's supposed to.

Oh so intalling the three mount reduced the vibes than just having the front one installed.

I did just the front first and it was really shakey, especially if the engine is cold at start up. Once it warmed up, it wasn't so bad. The sides helped out quite a bit to reduce that though, so if you're gonna replace mounts then do those 3 for sure.

[kansei]

Ooh nice!! Thanks for the suggestion Chris, I'll look into that. Did you drill into the block when installing yours, or is there a convenient tap already in place somewhere?

It installs in the freeze plug near the oil filter. You have to drain the coolant (doesn't have to be drained fully, just enough that none leaks out from up there), get the freeze plug out, then mount the block heater in. It's pretty simple, let me know if you are going to install and have any questions.


I did just the front first and it was really shakey, especially if the engine is cold at start up. Once it warmed up, it wasn't so bad. The sides helped out quite a bit to reduce that though, so if you're gonna replace mounts then do those 3 for sure.

yup, this is why my rear mount is sitting on my bedside table as a decoration. The 3 hold it in well (front 95 durometer, sides are whatever.. they feel like 70) with very minimal vibrations.

[pro5x2]

my rear was TOTALLY shot and the motor hopped all over even with AWR 70 up front and inserts on the sides.

new 70 in the rear and i'm good to go! but now my front bumper rattles

[CTt3P5]

my rear was TOTALLY shot and the motor hopped all over even with AWR 70 up front and inserts on the sides.

new 70 in the rear and i'm good to go! but now my front bumper rattles

broken clips where the headlights meet the bumper?

[pro5x2]

no, sounds like more near the lower grille actually.

But, both those clips are broken on both cars. lol

Callie actually just noticed lastnight. The tip of the bumper sticks out a little on teh driver's side.

She asked why it stuck out furhter. Told her the clips are broken. She asked if htey could be fixed, said, yup, buy new headlighst.

She forgt about it after that

[CTt3P5]

no, sounds like more near the lower grille actually.

But, both those clips are broken on both cars. lol

Callie actually just noticed lastnight. The tip of the bumper sticks out a little on teh driver's side.

She asked why it stuck out furhter. Told her the clips are broken. She asked if htey could be fixed, said, yup, buy new headlighst.

She forgt about it after that

I'm not 100% sure but isnt part#2 the replacement clip? http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214264&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2295&groupid=2296&subgroupid=2320&componentid=0&make=22&model=Protege&year=2002&graphicID=5416670&callout=2&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

I thought you could buy those clips w/o the entire lights assembly....please correct me if I am wrong.

[pro5x2]

probably could, but it doesn'ts tick out enough to mess with it. lol

[kansei]

the clips are just a few dollars each. this is way off topic :P