Turbo Install Finally Under Way!!!

[GMalatrasi]

After almost two years, since I started gathering the parts, the time has come!
I start this weekend, I'm only missing some exhaust gaskets, a few fittings, and a few bolts and nuts.

But I have a few questions...

First off, can anyone give me a quick overview of how to remove and install the clutch?
Do I have to drop the tranny? Or take out the driver's side axle?

Another thing is where can I get all the studs, bolts, and nuts for the exhaust system (manifold, turbo, downpipe, j pipe, etc)? Grade 8 plz.

Also does anyone have the part numbers for the exhaust system gaskets?
Last time I went to the dealer to buy a gasket they sold me the wrong one twice, so I'd like to know the part #'s before hand.

PS: If anyone in the Central FL area would like to give me a hand, let me know and I'll get in touch with you for further details.

Thanks,
Geep

[DemonIAm]

Holy crap, I thought you fell off the planet! Awesome news about the build. take lots of pics!

If you check out onlinemazdaparts.com, you can get all the part #s you need, and his parts are sold at a great price, too

[GMalatrasi]

Holy crap, I thought you fell off the planet! Awesome news about the build. take lots of pics!

If you check out onlinemazdaparts.com, you can get all the part #s you need, and his parts are sold at a great price, too


I just about fell off the planet... Lol.

I'll try to take pics, but it's hard when ur hands are dirty from working on the car's private parts.

PS: I cant get onlinemazdaparts to load.

[jeg0024]

When are you starting? I am off the next two days, not the weekend.

[GMalatrasi]

When are you starting? I am off the next two days, not the weekend.

Well I was gonna start this friday, cause i'm waiting on a couple parts still.
It should take about a week, so if ur free anytime next week ur welcomed to come up.

Or if u could come up this week and help with the tear down.

[jeg0024]

I will have a day or two off durring the week comming up and will have money for some gas. I will let you know.

[bazooka joe]

good luck with the build man! i have a gasket and some bolts if you need them?

[GMalatrasi]

which bolts do u have?

Anyone done the clutch swap?

[GMalatrasi]

Bump for some info on the clutch...

[bazooka joe]

which bolts do u have?

Anyone done the clutch swap?

haha...not sure anymore...my exhaust is all custom now so i'm not sure??? i'll post some pics of them for you

[kansei]

You have to drop the tranny and pull the driver's side axle. You can do it without removing the axle from the wheel hub.. mine wouldn't budge on that side even with the axle nut off.

You have a clutch "kit" right? with the alignment tool, both bearings, the clutch, and clutch cover?

damn school work / finals / graduation I wish I could be on here more to help you out.

I'm on google talk clauretano *at* gmail dot com add me and if you need anything I'm usually at the computer.

p.s. congrats on coming to the dark side soon :)

[GMalatrasi]

You have to drop the tranny and pull the driver's side axle. You can do it without removing the axle from the wheel hub.. mine wouldn't budge on that side even with the axle nut off.

You have a clutch "kit" right? with the alignment tool, both bearings, the clutch, and clutch cover?

damn school work / finals / graduation I wish I could be on here more to help you out.

I'm on google talk clauretano *at* gmail dot com add me and if you need anything I'm usually at the computer.

p.s. congrats on coming to the dark side soon :)


Thanks, I have everything but the alignment tool which i'll rent from advanced.

PS: U know it's been a long time coming but i'm finally here.

[TheMAN]

the passenger side axle doesn't need to be removed... but it does have to be unbolted from the engine and swung out of the way so that you can get the tranny in/out without damaging anything... starter MUST come off as is the rear motor mount bracket

you shouldn't have problems removing either axle since yours is an 03... earlier cars had axles rusting into the wheel hubs because of the wheel bearing seal trapping moisture which causes rust.... mazda realized that and removed them for 03

[kamon8404]

I would get the arp exhaust mani studs. You can get them from crossover for just over 100. Well worth the investment IMO. I have them and they are beautiful.

You can get grade 8 exhaust to S pipe studs and nuts from SU for 48 with free shipping.

I'm not sure where to get the bolts for the mani to turbo. I'm still trying to figure that our myself. I am install the steedspeed here within the next couple weeks and that is all i need.

As for the gaskets just call jason at montgomery mazda and he can order up all of the gaskets for you. He did for me, they were all correct too. If you need his number just let me know i'll get it for you.

[kansei]

Well you could just order the stock studs for mani to turbo, that's what I did. Since I didn't know sizes on any of the things I just ordered all the stock stuff, some of which I immediately went to the sweet fastener store local and replaced with some nice SS more heavy duty stuff :)

[GMalatrasi]

Thanks for the info guys...
I was going to order the stock turbo studs but I have an aftermarket mani that was tapped for 5/16-18 thread.
Gaskets I already ordered from SU
I'm headed to the local Fastenal to see if they have the studs i need, if not i might drill out the threads on the mani and use bolts instead of studs (i hate studs)

[kansei]

Is Fastenal any decent? There's one a mile down the street from here but I always take the 20min drive to Herb's Fastener Supply because they have literally everything --they specialize in automotive fastener supply so everything includes all the plastic clips and stuff used on the body and interior.

[jeg0024]

They made next weeks schedule already, they gave it to me when I went to get my check. I have to work the next 6 days, im off Friday and Saturday. I guess I can't complain about those days off though.

[GMalatrasi]

Is Fastenal any decent? There's one a mile down the street from here but I always take the 20min drive to Herb's Fastener Supply because they have literally everything --they specialize in automotive fastener supply so everything includes all the plastic clips and stuff used on the body and interior.


Fastenal is pretty good for some things... no metric stuff in stock though

I did find some of the studs I needed... only ones missing are the turbo/downpipe studs... and mazda's computer system wasnt showin any msp parts (some software issue) they said they would try again monday.

[kansei]

no metric = they aren't good for anything lame.

[GMalatrasi]

Ok more bad news... I go check to see if Mazda ordered my parts, but when I talk to the guy he says he cant order those studs.
It turns out that they are part of the turbo, so they aren't listed as a separate part.
So no one else had them and Mazda cant sell them to me.
I'm stuck.... Help!!

[GMalatrasi]

anyone?

[kansei]

Ok more bad news... I go check to see if Mazda ordered my parts, but when I talk to the guy he says he cant order those studs.
It turns out that they are part of the turbo, so they aren't listed as a separate part.
So no one else had them and Mazda cant sell them to me.
I'm stuck.... Help!!

well it's a week later so I'm hoping you got this resolved.. you're talking the studs from the manifold to the turbo or from the turbo to the downpipe? I definitely replaced most if not all of those --talk with onlinemazdaparts.com he can hook you up.

[CrashKelly]

yeah someone has to have those studs....I ordered them from corksport when I ordered the new S-pipe...never put it on though...In fact I still have the set of them if you really end up needing them. Pm me and we can talk price....unfortunately they were 46 bucks for the set, but I could give em to you for cheaper...Im not planning on using them at the time being. I had just been saving them cause I might need them one day.

[KrayzieFox]

I have a set of mani to turbo studs sitting around here somewhere with the part number still on them. I'll dig them up and post the PN# for you.

EDIT: Found it already. They come packaged individually, part number is 0000-88-C16 $5.58 a stud
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=214264

[GMalatrasi]

Thanks guys... But I did find the correct studs eventually.
But since it took so long to get them, my room mate started working on his bike, taking up the garage, so I'll have to wait til he's done.
Shouldn't be more than a couple weeks at most, i'll keep this updated.

[TheMAN]

the turbo studs are the same as the manifold studs

[GMalatrasi]

I have an aftermarket mani so it's different but thanks I already got them.

[jeg0024]

When is this thing going in?

[GMalatrasi]

The week of the 25th, is that good for you?

PS: You're coming up to Raider's this Saturday right?

[jeg0024]

I think I only have Friday/Sundays off now but im not sure about my next weeks schedule untill tomorrow. I might be able to come up the weekend of the 30th but thats a ways off. :(

[Discreet]

bump for an update.

[GMalatrasi]

I just got back to FL...
I'll get this going for real as soon as I can. (in a week or so)

[jeg0024]

I have to work all weekend this week because of a wedding reception at the hotel but I may be free part of next weekend.

[GMalatrasi]

Just let me know

[jeg0024]

Will do man!

[GMalatrasi]

It's looking like this weekend is the one. No class on monday and school hasn't gotten too crazy with projects yet.
I'll probably start on friday afternoon (if not thursday) to tear it apart.
mock up everything, check for clearance etc.
Mark the bung location and send the oil pan to be welded.
Same for the wideband O2 sensor.

[KrayzieFox]

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. I just got done doing this, so I can probably help you out somehow.

[DemonIAm]

Great news, Geep. Can't wait to see pics/video!

Good Luck!

[GMalatrasi]

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. I just got done doing this, so I can probably help you out somehow.

Thanks, I know I'll have plenty to ask.

Great news, Geep. Can't wait to see pics/video!

Good Luck!

I try to take enough pics to satisfy the pic cravings, (if possible).

[GMalatrasi]

Progress!
First step:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1215.jpg

Then:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1213.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1214.jpg
Nasties out

And last for tonight:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1212.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1211.jpg
Goodies in for mock up and clearance check.

I noticed that I'm gonna have to clock the housing because the oil ports aren't straight up and down. Also my suspicion that the driver side fan is in the way of the turbo was confirmed.

One last thing, does anyone have pictures of their oil return line routing and where it taps into the oil pan?

[KrayzieFox]

Sure thing, here ya go dude.

http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2805&d=1219353565

A word of advice though. I would highly recommend that you take out the radiator while working in there. It's way to easy to puncture when you're working around there.

Second thing, I would've hooked up the oil and water feed/return lines with the turbo still off. It's much easier to access all the inlets and outlets and torque them down properly with the turbo still off. Check out TheMAN's torque specs and try to follow them as closely as possible.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/showthread.php?t=5431

[GMalatrasi]

Sure thing, here ya go dude.

A word of advice though. I would highly recommend that you take out the radiator while working in there. It's way to easy to puncture when you're working around there.

Second thing, I would've hooked up the oil and water feed/return lines with the turbo still off. It's much easier to access all the inlets and outlets and torque them down properly with the turbo still off. Check out TheMAN's torque specs and try to follow them as closely as possible.
http://www.themazdaforum.com/showthread.php?t=5431

Yeah I did notice the lack of room there is around the oil and coolant ports.

I also need to get some hints on how to remove the bumper.
I was looking at it for a while and I'm still unsure as to how to get it off.

[GMalatrasi]

One more thing, where do you guys have the wideband O2 sensor tapped into?

[KrayzieFox]

Yeah I did notice the lack of room there is around the oil and coolant ports.

I also need to get some hints on how to remove the bumper.
I was looking at it for a while and I'm still unsure as to how to get it off.
Yea the coolant lines are not easy to hook up with the turbo bolted on. You might wanna take it off until you get the lines hooked up.

As for the bumper, it's very easy. Follow these steps.
1) Unbolt two 12mm? bolts under the bumper
2) Turn your steering wheel all the way to the left or right to give you more room in the fender
3) Unscrew and pop out the three plastic anchors in the fender
4) Squeeze your hand inside the bumper and unbolt the two 8mm bolts that attach the bumper to the fender. One is right there where the plastic splash guard goes into the bumper, the other is towards the headlight.
5) Undo the 3? bolts that hold the splash guards to the bottom of the bumper
6) Unscrew the upper grille screws
7) The bumper is almost off, but don't pull it off. There is two small plastic clips on the underside of the headlights (outside of headlight) that you'll need to push down on with a screwdriver so they don't snap. Pull OUT TOWARDS YOURSELF gently to disengage the clip. If it breaks, they're only $7 at onlinemazdaparts.com
8) Once the clips are out, the bumper is ready to come out.
One more thing, where do you guys have the wideband O2 sensor tapped into?
The wideband is best placed in the j-pipe o2 bung. Then you'll need to extend and relocate the 2nd o2 sensor to the midpipe AFTER the cat (if you have one).

http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2805&d=1219353565
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2804&d=1219353565

[GMalatrasi]

Thanks so much

[KrayzieFox]

Thanks so much

No problem, I'll throw up all the pictures you need man.

Also, when relocating the 2nd o2 sensor I'd suggest you get some actual extensions instead of doing what I did by splicing into the wires. These should work fine (it says Mazda6, but they'll fit the Protege). 40" is about what I needed to extend mine to in order to get it that far back in the exhaust.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CEI&Product_Code=109132&ShowShip=1

[GMalatrasi]

Well a missing AN fitting halted the progress today, so I started routing the intercooler piping, trying to anyways. Apparently I have mismatching pieces or something cause I cant get them to fit anywhere. So my next request is pictures of different routing options for the piping.
As of now the best looking route is up from the turbo across to the passenger side next to the A/C lines, then down the hole that was for the windshield-washer tank, across to the FMIC, then back up through the hole under the coolant reservoir, and finally bck to the throttle body.

PS: pics later

[KrayzieFox]

Yea routing the FMIC pipes is a bitch, especially the hot pipe. I made a thread about it and there's a few pics on there about how to do it. If you can relocated the washer tank and use that hole, then go for it but I would probably suggest you cut like Chris did and just route the pipe directly up to the turbo. It's probably the easiest way to do it..

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3050/2743851097_ea08e5aa93_b.jpg

[GMalatrasi]

Do you have any side view pics of where it goes into the engine compartment for both the hot and cold side? It's hard to put into words.

[KrayzieFox]

Cold side
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2746&d=1218677533

Hot side
http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2878&stc=1&d=1220157991


That's how mine is setup anyway. I suggest you do what Kansei did on the hot side and cut the circled piece, otherwise the pipe will be WAY too close to the ground like mine is.

http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2798&stc=1&d=1220157995

Also, do NOT mount the FMIC core the way I did. It will end up being blocked by the bottom of the bumper instead of sitting behind the lower grille. Make the top of the FMIC core touch the actual metal bumper like Kansei did. That'll make the bumper fit over the core AND expose the FMIC core to airflow.

[GMalatrasi]

Thanks allot.

[GMalatrasi]

Pics from yesterday:

Test fitting FMIC
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1220.jpg

Test fitting bumper over FMIC
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1219.jpg

I wont be able to do much today cause I need some AN fittings and everything is closed today and probably monday as well.

[khaosman]

what kind of an fittings do you need? i can send you some for free if you need.

[GMalatrasi]

Well I ordered the 14mm banjo bolts for the turbo coolant this morning.
But the one I really need to get is a 90 deg AN fitting for the oil return.

[khaosman]

-10AN? I probably have it. I went through tons of fittings trying to perfect the return line :/

[GMalatrasi]

If you have a 90 deg I will love long time.... I'll give you whatever you paid for it.

[khaosman]

Crap! I have a couple 45 degree fittings, but no 90s that I can find. Sorry man

[GMalatrasi]

No worries... Thanks for the offer.

[GMalatrasi]

Today's question is:

- Which is the proper hole for the oil feed?
a. the one with the white connector
b. the one with the black wire
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1226.jpg

[KrayzieFox]

a. the one with the white plug (oil pressure sender)

Final answer!!

Oh and remove that black bracket that goes to the bottom of the intake manifold. It will give you a TON of extra room when working back there. It's only 4 14mm bolts and a clip for the wire loom, so it's no biggie.

[GMalatrasi]

Thank you again

[KrayzieFox]

Just ask away my friend.. I just went through it all so my memory is very fresh :)

[GMalatrasi]

:'( One more day of waiting... The local performance store didn't have the 90deg fitting I needed in stock, they said tomorrow at the earliest.

[KrayzieFox]

While waiting you could probably get started on installing the gauges.

[GMalatrasi]

Good Idea!!!

[GMalatrasi]

Well I couldnt do too much wiring because it's kinda hard to get in there without being able to open the door all the way.

But I started putting some other stuff together and I came across a lil issue.
- How do you tighten the 5th nut on the S-pipe, the one under the bend??
I cant fit anything in there well enough to spin it.

[KrayzieFox]

5th nut? I remember there being 4 on the upper part where the s-pipe connects to the turbo, and 3 on the bottom where it connects to the j-pipe. One of the top nuts was pretty hard to get to, it's the one right below one of the water pipes.. but since yours aren't on yet you shouldn't have much problem accessing it.

[GMalatrasi]

Unless you have a different turbo you should have 5 bolts on ur S-pipe.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/Catalog%20Images/Turbochargers/GT25R-225225-2.jpg

[KrayzieFox]

Oh right.. the s-pipe. I got carried away into thinking you were trying to mount the turbo to the manifold.. my bad. I can't help ya there bud, my s-pipe was already on when I got the turbo.

You have any Gearwrenches? One of those should be able to fit I hope..

[GMalatrasi]

Nope I cant even get a closed end wrench over it.

[GMalatrasi]

Ok so I started modifying the gauge surround to hold the boost and wideband gauges.
Used the hoods off the old pillar mount.
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/P5%20stuff/DSCF0922.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1228.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1234.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1235.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1231.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1233.jpg

And this is the aftermath
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1227.jpg

Oh yeah and I painted the manifold
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1229.jpg
I know the oil line is way too long but thats how it came from atp turbo and i'm not cutting it, i'll route it so it looks better.

[jeg0024]

^looks nice bro!

[Z]

cut a slot in the hood and have the line run outside....lol

call it your oil cooler =P

nice work on the pods though.

[KrayzieFox]

Dude remove that radiator already. You're gonna puncture it while working on something and then you'll have to dish out an extra $300 for a new rad. Just take it out..

[GMalatrasi]

Dude remove that radiator already. You're gonna puncture it while working on something and then you'll have to dish out an extra $300 for a new rad. Just take it out..

But I'm lazy...

[bazooka joe]

when you reroute the oil line make sure you have no kinks

[KrayzieFox]

But I'm lazy...
Dude.. it's 4 bolts up top and two hose clamps. Just take it out and save yourself some hassle down the line.

when you reroute the oil line make sure you have no kinks
+1 Very important.

[GMalatrasi]

Ok so after a week of trying and failing, I finally got the oil pan off.
Whatever they used to seal it was way too strong.

Anyway here's what's left:
- drill oil pan
- weld/epoxy bung on oil pan
- re-install oil pan & oil return line
- make/modify intercooler piping to fit
- relocate MAF
- install and wire gauges
- route vacuum lines and MBC
- replace PCV valve & insert check valve
- swap stock for MSP ECU
I'm sure i'm forgeting something but you get the idea.

[bazooka joe]

try and have the bung welded in the pan, if you can! what did you use to finally get the pan off? i used a putty knife, worked my way around the pan and it popped right off?

[GMalatrasi]

try and have the bung welded in the pan, if you can! what did you use to finally get the pan off? i used a putty knife, worked my way around the pan and it popped right off?


Well I thought a sharp, heavy duty scraper would do the trick but I couldn't stick it there , so I had to pry down the front edge with a wrench just enough to get the scraper in there. Busted a finger pretty good while prying too.

I'm gonna try to get someone to weld it for me but if I cant get it done by the end of the weekend I might have to epoxy it in there for now. I need to finish this already.
It's been almost 2 months without a car, it's really hard to go grocery shopping on my bike.
And I'm certain that the intercooler piping will take a good amount of time to finish.

[KrayzieFox]

Dude.. listen to Mark and weld that fitting into the pan. Don't do a half-ass job on something so crucial. Besides, wiring up the gauges, running all the vacuum lines, and hooking up the FMIC will take you probably just as long as you need to wait for a shop to do the welding. Just find a place, take it to them and get everything else done while you're waiting.

Do you have a vacuum block for the vacuum lines? It helps a TON!! It makes all the splicing SO much easier.

[GMalatrasi]

Dude.. listen to Mark and weld that fitting into the pan. Don't do a half-ass job on something so crucial. Besides, wiring up the gauges, running all the vacuum lines, and hooking up the FMIC will take you probably just as long as you need to wait for a shop to do the welding. Just find a place, take it to them and get everything else done while you're waiting.

Do you have a vacuum block for the vacuum lines? It helps a TON!! It makes all the splicing SO much easier.


I'm almost certain I can get it welded.
No I dont have a vacuum block, I'll check with the local performance shop tomorrow.

[KrayzieFox]

Here's one with 6 outlets (more than plenty) for pretty cheap.
http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_71&products_id=210

[BRIAN MP5T]

One last thing, does anyone have pictures of their oil return line routing and where it taps into the oil pan?

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/Engine%201.jpg


Here is what you should actually do. The oil return should go into the wind-age tray because if you tap the pan, the oil will not exit the turbo easily, the exit line should be above the oil.

http://www.themazdaforum.com/showthread.php?t=40

You will notice that all your questions are basically answered in all of my posts, I have done what you are doing now since 2003, trust me, anything you are about to install, remove or replace, I have done 3 times. I will help.

Also, have a look at he rest of the post, Most of your last couple questions are there with part numbers..

[BRIAN MP5T]

Today's question is:

- Which is the proper hole for the oil feed?
a. the one with the white connector
b. the one with the black wire


The Black one is the Knock sensor.

[GMalatrasi]

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Brian%20MP5T/Engine%201.jpg


Here is what you should actually do. The oil return should go into the wind-age tray because if you tap the pan, the oil will not exit the turbo easily, the exit line should be above the oil.

http://www.themazdaforum.com/showthread.php?t=40

You will notice that all your questions are basically answered in all of my posts, I have done what you are doing now since 2003, trust me, anything you are about to install, remove or replace, I have done 3 times. I will help.

Also, have a look at he rest of the post, Most of your last couple questions are there with part numbers..

Thanks for all the info Brian, although I agree with your reasoning for placing the oil return, with the stock location of the turbo and S-pipe, I have no room to route the return line into the wind-age tray.

[KrayzieFox]

Actually, that's exactly how the MSP is setup as well.. so it can work with the stock MSP turbo and s-pipe. It's just A LOT MORE WORK to tap the tray as opposed to the oil pan. If you have the time, money and other resources to do so, I advise you do.. otherwise you can just tap the pan like the rest of us.

I'm not going against you Brian, but for most DIYers the oil pan is a much more feasible option. And it works just fine. The whole system's under pressure, so the oil itself shouldn't provide much resistance with 25-50 psi behind it.

[BRIAN MP5T]

Dont forget that the crank case is also under pressure so there is much more variables to consider......

[808mp5]

your gonna love the turbo (when you get it running reliably that is) as for the gasket... i just reused mine since its the metal type. but yea getting a new one would definently be better. It took me and my friend five days to get everything sorted out and today, well actually last night i drove my car around and it loves to whoooosh pssssssst

*edit.... holy camoly... i didn't realize this thread was 9pg.s long... i bet im late in the game

[GMalatrasi]

Actually, that's exactly how the MSP is setup as well.. so it can work with the stock MSP turbo and s-pipe. It's just A LOT MORE WORK to tap the tray as opposed to the oil pan. If you have the time, money and other resources to do so, I advise you do.. otherwise you can just tap the pan like the rest of us.

I'm not going against you Brian, but for most DIYers the oil pan is a much more feasible option. And it works just fine. The whole system's under pressure, so the oil itself shouldn't provide much resistance with 25-50 psi behind it.

Well with the proper parts I'm sure it would fit, but with what I have I didn't see a good way of routing it to the crank.

your gonna love the turbo (when you get it running reliably that is) as for the gasket... i just reused mine since its the metal type. but yea getting a new one would definently be better. It took me and my friend five days to get everything sorted out and today, well actually last night i drove my car around and it loves to whoooosh pssssssst

*edit.... holy camoly... i didn't realize this thread was 9pg.s long... i bet im late in the game

Lol... Yeah well unfortunately it's been a while since I started this, and still sooo much to do before I can drive it.

[jeg0024]

Hey bro, my tranny is shot and getting fixed... if you didn't see my other post already. I wanted to try to make it up this weekend but I won't have my car. :(

[GMalatrasi]

Damn that sucks... Get a manual... Lol just kidding.

[jeg0024]

Got one to donate? lol

[BRIAN MP5T]

I have three trans and two motors...

[808mp5]

hehe i wouldn't mind having a spare motor to build

[GMalatrasi]

Ok well I got the oil pan done.
Welded on both sides for extra leak insurance.

But there's just too much left to do, it's very unlikely that I'll make it to the palooza.
And as if it wasn't enough, now I cant find the pcv and check valve I ordered months ago.

[BRIAN MP5T]

Ok well I got the oil pan done.
Welded on both sides for extra leak insurance.

But there's just too much left to do, it's very unlikely that I'll make it to the palooza.
And as if it wasn't enough, now I cant find the pcv and check valve I ordered months ago.

mazda has them in stock, they are cheap

[GMalatrasi]

Picture updates:

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1237.jpg
Finished dash panel with integrated gauge pods

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1238.jpg
Oil pan... I know it looks bad with the gray but I didn't have black and I didn't want any rust.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1236.jpg
Not much of an update but turbo assembly ready to go in as soon as I get the studs.

PS: PCV and check valve should arrive at Mazda on Tuesday.

Only major issue left to tackle is the intercooler piping.

[Shasta]

Gauge panel looks cool.

[GMalatrasi]

Mini-Update:

-Turbo assembly is in
-coolant and oil lines hooked up
-first O2 sensor in
-EGR line attached
-as soon as I can get to J-pipe off of the cat I'll put that in as well, wideband O2 can go in after that
- tomorrow mazda is supposed to get the PCV and Check Valves

Question: What size vacuum lines do I need? 3-5mm?

[bazooka joe]

nice!

[khaosman]

Sounds like things are moving along! Looks good from the pics.

4mm should work. Crossoverauto has more info on the vacuum line sizes http://www.crossoverauto.com/mazdaspeed5.htm

[GMalatrasi]

Seems like updates are getting more and more frequent....

- Exhaust is on
- Wideband O2 sensor wiring in place
- And a couple other small things I cant remember right now

Only big thing left is the intercooler piping

[jeg0024]

so put it on and get to palooza! you got 3 days!

[GMalatrasi]

so put it on and get to palooza! you got 3 days!

I'm trying, I'm trying!

I cant just put it on... I need to make it.

I have a shit-ton of school work to do this week too.

[jeg0024]

ooooh :( sorry bro

[GMalatrasi]

No, don't be sorry... I kinda liked the motivational optimism.

[jeg0024]

well you can do it! ;)

[Raider]

You are flying through the install!

[GMalatrasi]

Even with all that optimism, I dont think I'll make it up to there this saturday...
I couldn't work on it at all today and tomorrow looks to be more of the same.
I just have too much going on with school.

Sorry guys.

PS Raider if the next palooza isnt too far away, I'm surely there, with a finished turbo P5.

[GMalatrasi]

Update:
Gauges are installed and wired in, more importantly they work.

Only thing left is the intercooler piping.

[DemonIAm]

Almost there!

[808mp5]

:) TURBO FTW!!!! and the most headache hehe

[GMalatrasi]

Hopefully when I finish the headache stops...
I know, wishful thinking... I can dream.

[GMalatrasi]

I ordered the stuff I was missing for the intercooler piping, and I started cutting and mounting what i have.
I also tried to put the bumper on with the two 90 bends on the side of the intercooler and they dont really fit all that well with the fog lights, but I think I can get it to fit.
The rest of the stuff should be here the by thursday, I'll put p some pics of what I have in a lil bit.

[GMalatrasi]

As promised:

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1241.jpg
Hot side out of turbo

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1239.jpg
Hot side by FMIC

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1240.jpg
Cold side by FMIC

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1242.jpg
Cold side back up in engine compartment

[bazooka joe]

cool! can't wait to see it done!:)

[GMalatrasi]

Well I finally got the 2" tubing I'd ordered three weeks ago to finish the hot side. Only waiting on a 90 deg 2.5" coupler to finish the cold side.

Update pics:

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1246.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1247.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1243.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1244.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1245.jpg

[pro5x2]

looking good man!

Should be ready for March then, i think that's the next palooza event at Classic!

[KrayzieFox]

I like the hot pipe routing, good idea. Don't have to get rid of fans or cut anything..

[GMalatrasi]

I like the hot pipe routing, good idea. Don't have to get rid of fans or cut anything..

Well I did have to get rid of the windshield washer tank, and I dont think I'll be able to change the passenger side headlight bulb without taking off a piece of the hot pipe.

[KrayzieFox]

Yea I did notice that.. but you'll be alright.

[kansei]

yeah I was just gonna say I do really like that hot site routing. It's a bit long but doesn't look like it required much if any cutting.

[808mp5]

love the way the pipes are running... although with the pipe runing so close to the exhaust manifold and above the turbo it will absorb quite a bit of heat

[kansei]

to be fair the air is moving quite fast

[GMalatrasi]

They really aren't that close, and if it does get too hot I can easily make a heat shield; plus it's before the intercooler so that heat wont go straight into the engine.

And no there was no cutting involved.

[GMalatrasi]

I started it last night. Everything sounds ok, I hope. I have a small oil leak at the T fitting on the back of the block and a coolant leak up front.
As soon as I fix those I'll take it off the jack stands and go for the first drive.

[pro5x2]

good to hear sir!!

[GMalatrasi]

Damn that was fast...

[pro5x2]

that's how i roll

[bazooka joe]

great! now get some pics and a vid posted up!!;)

[GMalatrasi]

Your wish is my command:

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1248.jpg

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/DSCF1249.jpg

Video will have to wait til I fix the leaking.

[bazooka joe]

nice! what's that in your filter, the IAT..?

[jamesk]

ncie man, that the first kind of set up ive seen like that

[jeg0024]

nice! what's that in your filter, the IAT..?



^looks like it

[khaosman]

good work!

[jeg0024]

He needs to take it for a ride and blow off all that dust! lol


Looks great man! :)

[pro5x2]

he can drive it here, then throw that setup in ma car!

[GMalatrasi]

nice! what's that in your filter, the IAT..?

Yup

[GMalatrasi]

he can drive it here, then throw that setup in ma car!

Hey if the price is right... We could work something out.;)

[KrayzieFox]

Good work, very colorful lol :D

[GMalatrasi]

Good work, very colorful lol :D

I know... but i needed them quick and cheap.

[GMalatrasi]

Ok so what's the easiest way to empty my gas tank?
I had a full tank of 89 when I started the install and now I need 93 to drive with the turbo.
I tried syphoning but there's a check valve in the filler pipe that doesn't let the hose into the tank.
Any ideas?

[SATimko]

Just put about 8 bottles of octane booster in it. It should get you up to about 92.

[GMalatrasi]

Lol... Hadn't thought about that.
Aren't those expensive?

[pro5x2]

Ok so what's the easiest way to empty my gas tank?
I had a full tank of 89 when I started the install and now I need 93 to drive with the turbo.
I tried syphoning but there's a check valve in the filler pipe that doesn't let the hose into the tank.
Any ideas?

that's good to know. No stealing ma gas!

[SATimko]

Lol... Hadn't thought about that.
Aren't those expensive?

Ya know, I'll probably get A LOT of flak for this, but I would just drive out the rest of the tank without getting into boost. No boosting, not many issues with running a lower octane.

[GMalatrasi]

I tried unhooking the line to the fuel rail hoping the pump would try to prime the system and empty it that way but the solenoid didn't prime like I hoped.
To do it like this I'd have to jump the pump.

[GMalatrasi]

Ya know, I'll probably get A LOT of flak for this, but I would just drive out the rest of the tank without getting into boost. No boosting, not many issues with running a lower octane.

Not getting into boost means not going above 3 grand, which means a full tank will take like 400 miles.

[SATimko]

If that's what you really want to do, I'd just jump the pump.

[SATimko]

Not getting into boost means not going above 3 grand, which means a full tank will take like 400 miles.

Not if you're Tylor...

[pro5x2]

Not if you're Tylor...

sad but true. I don't get it

[GMalatrasi]

Dont worry, neither do I.

[SATimko]

Ty gets shitty mileage.

[GMalatrasi]

I got that much... I figured there was more to it.

[SATimko]

Nope. That's it.

[GMalatrasi]

Do you guys know where the DLC port is?
I know where the OBD2 port is never heard of the DLC port.
I need to get to it to jump the pump.

[GMalatrasi]

This is where it's supposed to be:
3320
And this is what it's supposed to look like:
3321

[808mp5]

hmmm... not sure but there is another port under the hood near the firewall on the driver side

[Z]

drive around, but dont go into boost. a tank should be a week or 2. it'll teach you how to keep away from the po-po

[bazooka joe]

Just put about 8 bottles of octane booster in it. It should get you up to about 92.

Ya know, I'll probably get A LOT of flak for this, but I would just drive out the rest of the tank without getting into boost. No boosting, not many issues with running a lower octane.

either or...i put the booster in and also kept out of boost till i got down to half...filled it with 93...good to go!

[GMalatrasi]

hmmm... not sure but there is another port under the hood near the firewall on the driver side

yup that is it!
Thanks

[SATimko]

either or...i put the booster in and also kept out of boost till i got down to half...filled it with 93...good to go!

Plus the FS-DE is a time bomb under boost anyway. So it's not like you're going to hurt it any more than it's already hurting itself. :rofl2:

[bazooka joe]

haha....tick, tick, tick!!!!!!!;)

[pro5x2]

fizzle. It was a dud. No boom

[bazooka joe]

fizzle. It was a dud. No boom

:rockon:

[GMalatrasi]

No boom! Plz

[GMalatrasi]

I pumped out gas 'til the light came on... then gave it to my neighbor.
Then I put-putted over to the nearest gas station and filled it with good 93 octane.
Now I have to put the bumper back on... Ahrg!
Anyone bored enough to put it on for me... It's been so long I don't even remember whereor in what order all the clips and bolts go.

[bazooka joe]

No boom! Plz

you'll be fine...just keep the afr in check...stay in the green!! ;)

[GMalatrasi]

you'll be fine...just keep the afr in check...stay in the green!! ;)

Will do.

[GMalatrasi]

Bumper is on.
Drove around for a bit to feel things out. The turbo is pretty loud when it starts sucking.
Got to 5 lbs, I think I need to readjust the wastegate.
I also found, what I hope to be, the last leak at one of the AN fittings on the oil return line.
That'll be the 4th time I drain the oil.

[bazooka joe]

seems like there's always something to tighten, and retighten!!

[kansei]

if it's really loud when it starts sucking there's probably a leak in the intercooler piping somewhere. Water can and will enter through the leak points and it makes driving in the rain rather unpleasant. Check it out, leak test the pipes or do whatever else you can think of to check for leaks.

[GMalatrasi]

I'll see what I can do.
Thanks for the hint.

[GMalatrasi]

So I fixed the leak and went for a test drive.
- First off, I couldn't get past 3-4 psi. I'm thinking it's the wastegate, since it has the adjustable actuator and I have no idea what it's set at.

- The second issue is a big one: Under hard acceleration it smokes more than I'd like out the exhaust.
Smoke is white and looks like burnt oil to me.
I know that turbo cars, like the MS3 for example, smoke pretty good even stock.
But keep in mind it is a rebuilt turbo.
How worried should I be? Should I be looking for a new turbo? Or just keep an eye on the oil level.

- The last issue of the day is the BOV: I'm getting allot of flutter when I let off the gas, even when not in boost. I doubt that my BOV cant flow enough, so I'm assuming that I hooked it up wrong.
Can someone post a routing diagram for the vac/boost lines?
Right now I have all the boost lines connected to each other.
Or could it be that I didnt hook up the lower nipple on the BOV to anything.
The instructions said it wasn't necessary.
Here's a pic of the type of BOV I have:
3324
The instructions said the top nipple goes to the intake manifold, is that right?
And where does the lower nipple go to?
I can't find the instructions now, but I remember it said it was optional.

[KrayzieFox]

Who was the turbo rebuilt by and when? Any turbine shaft play?

Also, my HKS BOV flutters a bit even while under vacuum (approaching boost), so I wouldn't worry about that too much.. I'm pretty sure it's normal.

[GMalatrasi]

Who was the turbo rebuilt by and when? Any turbine shaft play?

I dont remember who it was by but I took it over to a local shop specialized in diesel turbos and he said it was a pretty good rebuild.
Shaft play was very very minimal.

[bazooka joe]

Who was the turbo rebuilt by and when? Any turbine shaft play?

Also, my HKS BOV flutters a bit even while under vacuum (approaching boost), so I wouldn't worry about that too much.. I'm pretty sure it's normal.

same here on the bov...

[GMalatrasi]

What does the lower nipple go to?

Edit: Apparently the lower nipple is connected to the intercooler piping and it helps push open the valve using the high pressure before the TB as the low pressure after the TB uses vacuum to pull open the valve. And it is optional.
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q195/Gmalatrasi/greddysopensm.jpg

[GMalatrasi]

Opinions regarding the smoke?

[KrayzieFox]

Does it do it at idle or do you only see it out the hatch window while driving? Is the exhaust smell out of the ordinary?

[GMalatrasi]

Does it do it at idle or do you only see it out the hatch window while driving? Is the exhaust smell out of the ordinary?

Only under hard acceleration.
As for the smell, it's noticeably stronger.

[bazooka joe]

white smoke is often coolant, blue smoke is oil, and black is a rich...you sure it's white?
..

[GMalatrasi]

It's hard to tell from inside the car. My roommate said it was white, he could be mistaken.
I also loose power after 4-4500 rpm, AFR goes way green, and the sucking noise quiets down.
So that means not enough air at high rpms, meaning boost leak or wastegate is set too soft.
I dont think I can adjust it without taking the turbo off... F*CK!!

[KrayzieFox]

Do you have a wideband or narrowband AFR gauge?

[GMalatrasi]

Wideband

[bazooka joe]

It's hard to tell from inside the car. My roommate said it was white, he could be mistaken.
I also loose power after 4-4500 rpm, AFR goes way green, and the sucking noise quiets down.
So that means not enough air at high rpms, meaning boost leak or wastegate is set too soft.
I dont think I can adjust it without taking the turbo off... F*CK!!

are you in boost at that rpm?

[KrayzieFox]

Can you give us the actual AFR reading of that RPM range? What's way green? 10's?

[bazooka joe]

he could be so rich that he's bogging!

[GMalatrasi]

are you in boost at that rpm?

You can feel the boost kicking in around 3000 and it builds up, like it should, to around 4000 then it feels like it's NA.

Can you give us the actual AFR reading of that RPM range? What's way green? 10's?

Um I think it was around 11.

[KrayzieFox]

11's are fine, that's where you want to be. 11.2-12.3 is what you're shooting for, 10's would be too rich, anything above 12.5 is too lean. While idling and under vacuum 14.5-15.3.

[GMalatrasi]

I checked again and it is 10.3 at it's lowest.
Boost press. goes up to 3.5-4 psi as the rpms go up but at a certain point (3500-4000) it stops going up and then the AFR goes to 10.3 and you notice the loss in power, like the turbo cant provide enough air.

It has to be the wastegate or a boost leak.

PS: And I started to hear the dreaded turkey from then BOV.
I think I'm gonna make a silencer for the BOV, I've seen small air filters used for this.

[808mp5]

what wastegate are you running? also if your BOV is fluttering it could be a bad vacuum source... when i first hooked mine up it was fluttering also cuz i had my wastegate and bov T'ed off the same vacuum source

[GMalatrasi]

what wastegate are you running? also if your BOV is fluttering it could be a bad vacuum source... when i first hooked mine up it was fluttering also cuz i had my wastegate and bov T'ed off the same vacuum source

Are they not supposed to be on the same source?
I have them both hooked up to the intake manifold.

[808mp5]

actually the wastegate vacuum source is supposed to be pre-throttle body plate (on the compressor side of the turbo) and preferably before the MAF too so u don't lose air post MAF... according to maxboost by corky bell there are three option (compressor outlet of turbo, compressor side of intake, and intake manifold)... but from my understanding the best place is from the compressor side of the turbo if a nipple is provided.

Are they not supposed to be on the same source?
I have them both hooked up to the intake manifold.

you can hook them up to the intake manifold but have seperate sources (not T'ed off the same line) works better

[GMalatrasi]

I'll give that a try... Thanks

[KrayzieFox]

Get a vacuum block. It makes it a LOT easier to run all the vacuum lines.

http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2809&stc=1&d=1219353608

[GMalatrasi]

Yeah but that does the same thing as having them all hooked to each other.

[Shift2xlr8]

This is a good thread. I learned a lot more about this setup and I may even try running the lines and such for the FMIC like you had them it seems to work for you and a lot less bullshit and hassle. Same with the IAT.

[GMalatrasi]

Thanks... Good luck with your project.

[808mp5]

Get a vacuum block. It makes it a LOT easier to run all the vacuum lines.

http://www.themazdaforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2809&stc=1&d=1219353608

ahhh sorry for getting a little off here.... but what size is the fuel line in that pic...

oh and a vacuum block is definently recommended... its sorta the same thing like you said but way different then having the wastegate and bov tee'd off the same line

[KrayzieFox]

ahhh sorry for getting a little off here.... but what size is the fuel line in that pic...

Ummm.. I dunno man. I can't remember. Why?

[808mp5]

i've had my fuel pressure gauge hooked up but not the sensor... kinda scared to remove the stock line but i sure as hell can't cut it cuz its like hard... i need to run a new fuel return line and put my t-fitting and sensor in

[GMalatrasi]

I was thinking that if I happened to overfill the crank case with oil, the oil return line could be getting backed up and the back pressure could be forcing the oil past the seals.

[KrayzieFox]

i've had my fuel pressure gauge hooked up but not the sensor... kinda scared to remove the stock line but i sure as hell can't cut it cuz its like hard... i need to run a new fuel return line and put my t-fitting and sensor in
The stock line is made of plastic or something like that on the inside, and it is a bitch to cut. But removal is insanely easy. They're held on by clips. Just remove the clips, twist, and off it comes.
I was thinking that if I happened to overfill the crank case with oil, the oil return line could be getting backed up and the back pressure could be forcing the oil past the seals.
How much oil did you put in?

[kansei]

How much oil did you put in?

well it doesn't take much to "overfill", even if your oil return fitting is at the absolute highest point possible (i.e. the pan had to be modded to fit it up there)

[808mp5]

yep... i put 4qts and i blow oil passed my seals

[KrayzieFox]

well it doesn't take much to "overfill", even if your oil return fitting is at the absolute highest point possible (i.e. the pan had to be modded to fit it up there)

yep... i put 4qts and i blow oil passed my seals

Ok, now you guys are starting to freak me out. What's going on here with too much oil? I put in 4 qts and use the 626 V6 filter.. and the dipstick shows exactly at F. I thought that's what we're going for here, but I guess not?!

[GMalatrasi]

I'll check it tomorrow and see if that helps.

[kansei]

Ok, now you guys are starting to freak me out. What's going on here with too much oil? I put in 4 qts and use the 626 V6 filter.. and the dipstick shows exactly at F. I thought that's what we're going for here, but I guess not?!

yeah same here. I always just put in 4 quarts but the oil pressure gets mighty high until some burns off (via my valve seals). It seems like the "excess" burns off quite quickly (I figure due to the higher oil pressure) and then there's much less smoke out the exhaust. I never really investigated it to be honest, as the oil burning issue really only started this summer. I do run a restrictor in the oil feed line though, it has a teeny little hole in it to feed oil to the turbo. With a dual ball bearing turbo you don't need massive amounts of oil flow so it's ok :) before I installed that fitting, I ran for a month with just the -4AN feed line and there was definitely a decent bit of oil consumption as I recall (hence buying the restrictor).

[jeg0024]

I burn coolant down to the full line on my overflow, if that makes any since... causes white smoke and has a distinct smell though, you will know if its oil by the smell and the blue smoke.

[808mp5]

LOL jeg... nice of you to come out of left field :)

[GMalatrasi]

Ok I also considered the restrictor idea, but I remember looking into it way back and the GT25 wasnt on the list for needing it. But it does make sense that it might cause the 28, 30, and 35 do need it. Im gonna try lowering my oil level first then I'll do the restrictor if that doesnt fix it.

[jeg0024]

LOL jeg... nice of you to come out of left field :)

lol I know, I'm late and probably off topic :P

[GMalatrasi]

I lowered the oil level to the full line and it's still doing to smoke screen when I shift or get off the gas after boost.

Next step is oil restrictor fitting.
Is the one from ATP turbo ok?
Linky (http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-036&Category_Code=BCS)

[bazooka joe]

no restrictor here
626 filter/4 quarts - full
no smoke....?
are we sure it's turbo related and not engine..valves?

[KrayzieFox]

no restrictor here
626 filter/4 quarts - full
no smoke....?
Are we sure it's turbo related and not engine..valves?

+1
+1
+1
+1

[GMalatrasi]

It didnt do it before and it only does it right after I boost (shifting and letting off the gas).

[kansei]

It didnt do it before and it only does it right after I boost (shifting and letting off the gas).

yeah but you've effectively upped the compression ratio.. the engine is experience much different stress levels now.

oh and yeah the one from ATP is fine. I dunno where else to get it, it's shockingly overpriced for what it is IMO.