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View Full Version : (Performance) How-To: Front Pad/Rotor Change (56kW)


BlackFSDET
02-02-2006, 12:34 PM
How To: Pad/Rotor Change on 2001 MP3 (other 3rd gen Protégé may differ)
By: Jeff Boyd (BlackFSDET)


NOTE: DISREGARD ANY REFERENCES TO THE THREADLOCKER THIS WAS A MISTAKE ON MY PART AND SHOULD BE IGNORED. THANK YOU

Disclaimer: If at any point and time during this procedure you doubt your ability to finish the project please get assistance.


First off Lets start with the tools your going to need for this procedure.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/tools.jpg

1. Drop Light/Flashlight
2. Tire Iron and Lug Lock Key (if applicable)
3. Car Jack
4. Jack Stands
5. 17MM Socket/Wrench
6. Large C-Clamp
7. Steak Knife or Small Flathead Screwdriver
8. 8MM Allen Wrench

Reccomended:

1 Pair of Mechanix Gloves
2 Lengths of Ratchet



Step 1: Jack up car and place jack stands accordingly. (See owners manual for jacking and jack stand points.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step1.jpg

Step 2: Remove Wheel
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step2.jpg

Step 3: Turn wheel with caliper towards outside of car.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step3.jpg

Step 4: Remove dust cap from allen bolt.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step4.jpg

Step 5: Remove Allen Bolt
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step5.jpg

Step 6: Remove caliper mounting bolts. Remove Caliper (Note: (WARNING) DO NOT let caliper hang from brake line.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step6a.jpg

Step 7: Open Caliper.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step7.jpg

Step 8: Remove Anti Rattle Springs (or M Springs if you prefer)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step8.jpg

Step 9: Remove outside pad. (Note: DO NOT remove inside pad (pad against brake piston) yet, it will help you in the next step.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step9.jpg

Step 10: Now take your c-clamp and place one side against the pad and the other against the bolt on the back of the caliper, tighten clamp to press the piston back into the caliper (Note: DO NOT press on piston directly, it could damage it.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step10.jpg

Step 11: Now you can remove that other pad.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step11.jpg

Step 12: Ok folks, now look at the back of your old pads. You’ll see some backing plates, transfer them to the back of the new pads. (Here is where the steak knife/flathead comes into play, I had to use the knife to pop the backing plates off the old pads.)(by the way those wires to the left are the anti rattle springs you removed earlier.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step12a.jpg
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step12b.jpg

Step 13: Install the new pads the same way you removed the old ones.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step13.jpg

Step 14: Install those anti rattle springs.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step14.jpg

Step 15: Close caliper and reinstall the allen bolt you removed earlier. Reinstall dust cap.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step15.jpg

Step 16: Mount caliper back onto mounting bracket and tighten bolts down.
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step17.jpg

Step 17: Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts to proper specifications. (See owners manual for proper torque specs.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step18.jpg

Step 19: (THE LAST ONE!) Take a quick trip around the block at a low speed and test out your brakes before you get out on the highway at 75mph and realize you forgot to put a pad in or something of the like. (Could turn out a bit bad.)
http://www.mazdamp3.com/members/TXMazdaSpeeder/step19.jpg

Killer 8
02-02-2006, 12:37 PM
Don't forget to pump the brakes i changed mines once and started to pull out of the garage and damn near panicked because i pressed the break once and kept on moving but luckily quick feet and two more pumps stoped me before i took out something.

greendragon
02-02-2006, 07:09 PM
Excellent How TO , When ever I do my brakes is open the bleed screw on the caliper to release the pressure on the caliper , that way you wont send the dirty brake fluid back into the system ,it will also prevent overflowing of the master cylinder .
The rear caliper ,you have to remove a 12 mm bolt on the back of the caliper ,behind the bolt is an allen screw that sallows you to back off the caliper enough to put the new pads in , then tighten the allen screw till the pads stop the rotor when you turn it by hand ,then loosen the allen screw just enough so the pads dont drag ,this wil get you in the ball park and the adjuster will take care of the rest

2Shiny
02-22-2006, 04:49 PM
I love the shiny MSP pic at the end!

METAL
02-22-2006, 09:04 PM
you should be opening the bleeder screw anyway,you never want to sent the fluid back up through the ABS,this has been known to cause problems


you also should be using the proper tool for the rear breaks,since they have a hilead screw.

BRIAN MP5T
02-24-2006, 11:14 AM
Speed Bleeders RULE!

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/

http://static.zoovy.com/img/speedbleeder/W180-H121-Bffffff/speedbleeder3d.jpg

Traitorhound
03-07-2006, 08:38 AM
Speed Bleeders RULE!

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/

http://static.zoovy.com/img/speedbleeder/W180-H121-Bffffff/speedbleeder3d.jpg


speedbleeders are cool. i just installed them when i putin my techna fit brake lines. only one thing to note is that you can't use a brake flush machine after they are installed (lol i didnt' even think about that) but being able to just pump the brakes is fine since it'll do the same thing.

one thing to note when changing to different brand pads is you should at least get some emory cloth and scruff up rotor to get the old pad material off of the rotor so you can properly bed in the new pads

MetalSPEED
03-07-2006, 09:58 AM
what happened to step 18? (evil)

i will be changing pads and rotors soon. i'm glad i saw this thread. this will help alot

BRIAN MP5T
03-09-2006, 06:45 AM
one thing to note when changing to different brand pads is you should at least get some emory cloth and scruff up rotor to get the old pad material off of the rotor so you can properly bed in the new pads

Yeah, I did the front in first gear with the tires off and a sanding block. Saves some time and gives a more even scuff.

MetalSPEED
06-02-2006, 08:48 AM
i did this last night =)

the 2 big bolts holding the caliper in place were a bitch to remove. my back is sore this morning because of that lol

is it bad if i don't have the dust caps on the allen bolt?

TheMAN
06-03-2006, 03:15 AM
pads need to be bedded after installation

BRIAN MP5T
06-03-2006, 07:04 AM
is it bad if i don't have the dust caps on the allen bolt?

It's just a bolt and IMO you need it to prevent the shit from getting in.

Find a parked Mazda at a store and steal theirs.. :)

MetalSPEED
06-04-2006, 11:47 PM
lol i will =)

Shifter555
06-06-2006, 09:24 AM
Speed Bleeders RULE!

http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/

http://static.zoovy.com/img/speedbleeder/W180-H121-Bffffff/speedbleeder3d.jpg
What is the part number for the Protegé 03 ?

On the Speed Bleeder website, the part number is only for 90-96 Protegé. Front SB8100 and rear SB7100. It is correct ?

This summer, I swap the front brake for Mazda6 caliper and rear for 626 caliper, is it the same ?

Exellent write up BTW!