terbow
01-27-2006, 09:12 PM
They should all be roughly the same, this is for the weekend warrior who needs to do it the long and tedious but not needing special tools way.
Installing the GHL TURBOBACK Exhaust
This document will assume you have removed the stock exhaust from the J pipe back. (Very easy to do, if you cant do that, I suggest getting this installed professionally).
Make sure you save your 4 rubber hangers as they will need to be reused.
I suggest protecting the rear stock 02 sensor from the elements or fluids as this may damage your sensor.
You can use jack stands, I used Rhino Ramps and I Suggest ramps because of the ease of use. Make sure if you do Jack up the car, use extreme caution and common sense. Refer to the proper Jack points and suspend the car on jack stands. Make sure the ground is level and safe before working on the car.
I also recommend test fitting the exhaust pieces together to make sure they fit together well.
Preparation
Remove the Negative Battery Cable (cover it with a plastic bag or something so it doesn’t ground to the chassis or other metal)
Drain Coolant (If you plan to remove manifold and turbo)
Remove Drain Plug, Dispose Fluid Accordingly or save (I recommend buying more)
Radiator Removal
Remove Stock Turbo to IC Pipe (Best when pipes are Warm)
Remove 2 Worm Clamps (Flat Head Screwdriver, 8mm Socket)
Put a Rag or something into the turbo so you don’t drop anything into it.
Remove Upper Coolant Pipe
Loosen 2 Clamps (Pliers, or Tool)
Put Aside
Remove Radiator Fan/ IC Fan(s)*
* When Removing Fans BE CAREFUL not to scrape the Radiator, the fins bend VERY easily.
Remove 4 Bolts on Radiator Brackets (10mm)
Remove 2 Bolts from Radiator Fan (Top of Fan)
Remove Bolts from IC Fan
One bolt is on top connects to radiator
2 More bolts are on the top of the Fan
Unclip Wiring Harness from both fans
You will need to remove the wire holders from both fans as well so you can remove the fans (Screw driver or puller tool).
Once you loosen the IC fan you can remove the Radiator Fan (Passenger Side) by pulling it straight up.
Once the Rad fan is out you can remove the IC fan, now since the Radiator outlet and IC outlet are permanent you have to tilt the IC fan towards the passenger side and it will come out with some finesse, again being careful not to scratch your radiator. You may be able to remove the fans, IC and radiator as one unit but I didn’t want to remove the IC and lower pipe so I did it this way. It’s your choice.
Remove the lower coolant hose (2 OEM spring clamps)(pliers or tool)
Put aside
Once fans are gone, remove the 2 bolts that connect the IC to the Radiator (bottom of radiator, driver side)
Now that everything is loose you can remove the radiator brackets and then push the IC over to the driver side, this will loosen the bracket it connects to the radiator with. Lift up on the radiator about 2 inches so the lower posts are loose (there’s a post and a rubber mount). Then once you do that slide it as far to the passenger side as you can (you will rub the AC line) and then wiggle it straight up, BEING VERY CAREFUL not to damage the radiator.
Put the radiator in a safe place. You can leave the IC in place, it wont be in the way. Congratulations, you now have plenty of room to work and wont worry about damaging that fragile radiator.
Removal of Stock J Pipe
Under the Car you will see the stock J pipe with its heat shield. Remove the bolts from the brackets.
Remove the 3 bolts from the J pipe to the S pipe (14mm), once you remove these the j pipe will come off.
Put this aside.
Turbo and Exhaust Manifold Removal
Oil Drain Line
Since you are under the car, it would be a great time to remove the Oil drain line. Since the car is off there wont be but a few drops of oil. Look right under the turbo and right above the oil pan, you will notice a diamond shaped flange in both spots. You will need a 5mm Allen wrench and a 4mm wrench. Remove the 4 Allen bolts (2 for each flange). When you remove the block side flange there is a gasket, don’t lose it.
Put the line and gasket aside, DO NOT get it dirty.
Freeing up the Turbocharger
Loosen the clamp on the Air intake to the turbo (8mm socket or Flat head Screwdriver). Once this is loose it will slide right off, don’t worry about it for now, just loosen it.
Going topside, we can start by unclipping the Upstream 02 sensor harness (in the manifold). Once this is unclipped you can use an 02 Socket to remove the sensor (it will have a slit up the side for the wires).
Put the sensor aside, and away from contamination.
Once the sensor is out of the way we can take the bolts off the heat shield, there should be four but expect to see less ha ha. (A little instructional humor).
Remove heat shield by pulling it toward the front of the car and up. Put aside.
Once the heat shield is off you have access to the Manifold bolts. We will get to these later. Remove the spring clamps from the coolant lines on the turbo (2). Just move them so they hang on the exposed copper pipe.
On the coolant lines, and oil line there is a line separator, there’s an Allen head screw on one side, loosen the screw so one side comes off and remove this fitting.
Once those are removed, grab a 7/16” open wrench. Now remove the oil feed line in the top of the turbo (this turns slowly, don’t strip it). Move the line to the side.
If you look up you will see a copper bracket right in front of the engine cover, I removed it. You can do so by removing the bolt.
Now remove the Vacuum line from the waste gate. In doing this you will break the stock clamp (Its designed to do so). I just replaced it. But if you can get it off, go for it.
Now on the driver side of the Mani there is a large fitting (looks like a bolt) this is the EGR Tube, I used a large adjustable wrench to loosen it. Unscrew it all the way and move it away from the mani (will be connected to tube, so you cant remove it.)
Now that the Vac line, Coolant lines, oil lines, EGR, and Air intake are off or loose, you can now remove the manifold bolts.
I sprayed mine with PB Buster; I suggest the same for you. Once the buster has had time to work, we will leave the studs for last since they will hold the manifold and turbo up. To get the bottom bolts I used a 12mm closed wrench that’s slightly angled (off set). With this you can loosen the 3 bottom bolts that are in the middle of the runners. Once those are loose I took them out with my fingers. Now with a Socket and extension you can remove the rest (leave the studs), and for PETE’S SAKE DO NOT DROP A BOLT INTO YOUR TURBO. Yea, that’s right I said Pete’s sake. Once all the bolts are out, loosen the 2 top studs so they are hand loose. Now before we move one, the turbo and mani are rather heavy so be ready. Make sure the EGR fitting is moved, coolant lines are slipped off the coolant tubes on the turbo, oil line is moved, and Air intake is pulled away from the turbo. While holding the mani into place, remove the bolts and then the mani and turbo will be loose. You will need to pull it straight toward the front of the car then lift it up. The air intake tube can be bothersome so make sure its moved well.
Congratulations you have now removed the turbo and manifold.
Removing Stock ‘S’ Pipe
Now that our cute little turbo is out of the car we should put it in a dust/dirt free place because one grain of sand can blow this baby up.
Once safe, you will need a 12mm socked and wrench. CAREFULLY spray the NUTS ONLY with Pb blaster. Let Sit. These bolts can be a little tough as sometimes the dealer can cross thread them but more so they are in an extreme heat environment so they get a little tight. Using the wrench and socket remove the nuts carefully. If they seem tight spray more, and let sit. They will be a little tight but shouldn’t be stuck, if they are proceed accordingly. You don’t want to snap a stud off you will be in a bit of a bind. If you do its not the end of the world but it will have to be removed professionally or otherwise. Once all 5 nuts are removed you need a 13mm or 14mm open wrench to loosen the 2 bolts so that you can remove the heat shield. One bolt is pretty free to turn the other is going to touch the coolant fitting, so just loosen them till you can pull the heat shield up.
Now pull the ‘S’ pipe away from the turbocharger, save the copper gasket that’s on there, as it will need to be reused.
Congratulations you have now removed the ‘S’ Pipe
Installing the GHL Down Pipe
I tried to put the GHL pipe on first then installing the turbo and it was too tight for me, I just couldn’t get it in. So, what you need to do is this. You will need 2 people to make this go smoothly but it’s really easy this way.
One of you bring the newly stripped turbo to the car (Don’t forget the copper gasket), lower it like you are going to put it on the studs but don’t. The other person gets under the car with the GHL down pipe. Now, with one person hovering the turbo in the empty space that the radiator was in (watch the AC condenser, also fragile) fit the GHL down pipe onto the turbo charger from below, secure with a nut or 2 hand tight. Make sure the GHL down pipe is on ALL the way, but hand tight. Then guide the manifold onto the 2 studs. You will probably have to move the Air intake tube out of the way; it will spring back to its installed location. Install the 2 stud nuts and tighten hand tight so the manifold doesn’t fall off.
Now get some anti-seize compound and put it on the nuts or studs if you can. Put all 5 nuts on hand tight to the down pipe. Now that the down pipe is temporarily secured, reinstall the manifold bolts. They are torque'd to 14-16Ft lbs. don’t over tighten them as you may strip a stud or have head problems as its aluminum (soft). Once the bolts and studs are installed you can use a 12mm socked and wrench to tighten the 5 down pipe bolts tight. Before you tighten the 2 top ones you will need to reinstall the heat shield. Then you can tighten the rest down. Don’t forget to tighten the 2 inner bolts back down that are on the inside of the heat shield. To get the rear bolt on the flange I used my open wrench and went up from where the oil return line was, it’s easier from that side. The other bolts can be reached from the top.
Once the bolts are tightened the down pipe is installed.
Reinstall Everything
I am not going to go into detail on the reinstall because it’s basically reversing what was done. Just make sure to check all bolts twice, once they are all tightened, check them again, better safe then sorry.
Once the Coolant lines, oil lines, vacuum line, EGR, line separator, oil line (when you retighten this make sure its not touching the turbo outlet or you wont be able to put on your Turbo to IC pipe, make sure it’s angled a good ½ away, and everything are back tightened to spec, then install the air intake, and radiator. Once the radiator is back in, then install the fans (don’t forget to hook up the electrical connections), then the coolant hoses. Now you can install your o2 sensor and heat shield. Once everything is back to where you started you can fill your radiator and coolant overflow back up with some fresh coolant mix.
Now your almost there.
Installing the GHL Mid Pipe (Cat / Resonator pipe)
Put the stock rubber hangers on the GHL mid pipe or the stock front hangers, it doesn’t really matter. Put one of the clamps onto the down pipe so when you install the pipe it’s ready and waiting. Then slide the pipe over the cross member and into the down pipe. Now suspend the pipe with the hangers. Wiggle the mid pipe into the GHL down pipe and make sure it’s all the way in. You may have to tap it GENTLY with a rubber mallet to get it to seat all the way in. Once this is installed and secure you can install, hand tight, your down stream 02 sensor (to keep it clean). Don’t tighten it yet.
Installing the GHL Cat back Pipe
Now that your cat pipe is installed, you can go about installing the rest of the system. If you are on ramps or stands, it will be REALLY difficult to put the rest on as it’s a tight squeeze and getting the muffler section over the rear axle is hard when the rear of the car is almost on the ground. At this point I suggest you roll the car off the ramps and either back it onto ramps or jack the rear of the car.
As usual, use common sense and proper jack points.
Now that we have ample clearance, we can install the rest of the system. Put a clamp on the pipe you are about to install so when you install it into the resonator pipe the clamp can be installed. Slip the pipe that goes past the resonator onto the resonator pipe. Make sure it’s in all the way and, again, you may need to tap it gently. Now since this section doesn’t have any hangers, if you are alone, I suggest holding the section up with zip ties or a jack or something (try not to scratch it). With that part installed, you can now put the stock rubber hangers onto the rear section. Put a clamp on the muffler or other installed section and then slide it over the axle into the last pipe, and onto the hangars. At this point is where you want to adjust the system. Each slip fit connection should be inserted so you can’t see the connection in the slit of the slip, once its clear, any further in is where your adjustments take place. Once you have everything in and where it looks like you have ample clearance you can tighten the clamps. They should be installed in the middle of the slip fit connection. Tighten, and enjoy.
Put the car on the ground carefully, and reconnect the battery. Those of you with alarms it may sound, as the car has been unhooked for the duration of the install.
Now start the car and let it warm up, as with most aftermarket exhausts. Check for rattles and leaks, and adjust accordingly. There may be smoke in the engine bay or the exhaust as these are fluids and chemicals burning off. As long as everything is installed properly this is perfectly normal.
Enjoy your new GHL Exhaust.
Installing the GHL TURBOBACK Exhaust
This document will assume you have removed the stock exhaust from the J pipe back. (Very easy to do, if you cant do that, I suggest getting this installed professionally).
Make sure you save your 4 rubber hangers as they will need to be reused.
I suggest protecting the rear stock 02 sensor from the elements or fluids as this may damage your sensor.
You can use jack stands, I used Rhino Ramps and I Suggest ramps because of the ease of use. Make sure if you do Jack up the car, use extreme caution and common sense. Refer to the proper Jack points and suspend the car on jack stands. Make sure the ground is level and safe before working on the car.
I also recommend test fitting the exhaust pieces together to make sure they fit together well.
Preparation
Remove the Negative Battery Cable (cover it with a plastic bag or something so it doesn’t ground to the chassis or other metal)
Drain Coolant (If you plan to remove manifold and turbo)
Remove Drain Plug, Dispose Fluid Accordingly or save (I recommend buying more)
Radiator Removal
Remove Stock Turbo to IC Pipe (Best when pipes are Warm)
Remove 2 Worm Clamps (Flat Head Screwdriver, 8mm Socket)
Put a Rag or something into the turbo so you don’t drop anything into it.
Remove Upper Coolant Pipe
Loosen 2 Clamps (Pliers, or Tool)
Put Aside
Remove Radiator Fan/ IC Fan(s)*
* When Removing Fans BE CAREFUL not to scrape the Radiator, the fins bend VERY easily.
Remove 4 Bolts on Radiator Brackets (10mm)
Remove 2 Bolts from Radiator Fan (Top of Fan)
Remove Bolts from IC Fan
One bolt is on top connects to radiator
2 More bolts are on the top of the Fan
Unclip Wiring Harness from both fans
You will need to remove the wire holders from both fans as well so you can remove the fans (Screw driver or puller tool).
Once you loosen the IC fan you can remove the Radiator Fan (Passenger Side) by pulling it straight up.
Once the Rad fan is out you can remove the IC fan, now since the Radiator outlet and IC outlet are permanent you have to tilt the IC fan towards the passenger side and it will come out with some finesse, again being careful not to scratch your radiator. You may be able to remove the fans, IC and radiator as one unit but I didn’t want to remove the IC and lower pipe so I did it this way. It’s your choice.
Remove the lower coolant hose (2 OEM spring clamps)(pliers or tool)
Put aside
Once fans are gone, remove the 2 bolts that connect the IC to the Radiator (bottom of radiator, driver side)
Now that everything is loose you can remove the radiator brackets and then push the IC over to the driver side, this will loosen the bracket it connects to the radiator with. Lift up on the radiator about 2 inches so the lower posts are loose (there’s a post and a rubber mount). Then once you do that slide it as far to the passenger side as you can (you will rub the AC line) and then wiggle it straight up, BEING VERY CAREFUL not to damage the radiator.
Put the radiator in a safe place. You can leave the IC in place, it wont be in the way. Congratulations, you now have plenty of room to work and wont worry about damaging that fragile radiator.
Removal of Stock J Pipe
Under the Car you will see the stock J pipe with its heat shield. Remove the bolts from the brackets.
Remove the 3 bolts from the J pipe to the S pipe (14mm), once you remove these the j pipe will come off.
Put this aside.
Turbo and Exhaust Manifold Removal
Oil Drain Line
Since you are under the car, it would be a great time to remove the Oil drain line. Since the car is off there wont be but a few drops of oil. Look right under the turbo and right above the oil pan, you will notice a diamond shaped flange in both spots. You will need a 5mm Allen wrench and a 4mm wrench. Remove the 4 Allen bolts (2 for each flange). When you remove the block side flange there is a gasket, don’t lose it.
Put the line and gasket aside, DO NOT get it dirty.
Freeing up the Turbocharger
Loosen the clamp on the Air intake to the turbo (8mm socket or Flat head Screwdriver). Once this is loose it will slide right off, don’t worry about it for now, just loosen it.
Going topside, we can start by unclipping the Upstream 02 sensor harness (in the manifold). Once this is unclipped you can use an 02 Socket to remove the sensor (it will have a slit up the side for the wires).
Put the sensor aside, and away from contamination.
Once the sensor is out of the way we can take the bolts off the heat shield, there should be four but expect to see less ha ha. (A little instructional humor).
Remove heat shield by pulling it toward the front of the car and up. Put aside.
Once the heat shield is off you have access to the Manifold bolts. We will get to these later. Remove the spring clamps from the coolant lines on the turbo (2). Just move them so they hang on the exposed copper pipe.
On the coolant lines, and oil line there is a line separator, there’s an Allen head screw on one side, loosen the screw so one side comes off and remove this fitting.
Once those are removed, grab a 7/16” open wrench. Now remove the oil feed line in the top of the turbo (this turns slowly, don’t strip it). Move the line to the side.
If you look up you will see a copper bracket right in front of the engine cover, I removed it. You can do so by removing the bolt.
Now remove the Vacuum line from the waste gate. In doing this you will break the stock clamp (Its designed to do so). I just replaced it. But if you can get it off, go for it.
Now on the driver side of the Mani there is a large fitting (looks like a bolt) this is the EGR Tube, I used a large adjustable wrench to loosen it. Unscrew it all the way and move it away from the mani (will be connected to tube, so you cant remove it.)
Now that the Vac line, Coolant lines, oil lines, EGR, and Air intake are off or loose, you can now remove the manifold bolts.
I sprayed mine with PB Buster; I suggest the same for you. Once the buster has had time to work, we will leave the studs for last since they will hold the manifold and turbo up. To get the bottom bolts I used a 12mm closed wrench that’s slightly angled (off set). With this you can loosen the 3 bottom bolts that are in the middle of the runners. Once those are loose I took them out with my fingers. Now with a Socket and extension you can remove the rest (leave the studs), and for PETE’S SAKE DO NOT DROP A BOLT INTO YOUR TURBO. Yea, that’s right I said Pete’s sake. Once all the bolts are out, loosen the 2 top studs so they are hand loose. Now before we move one, the turbo and mani are rather heavy so be ready. Make sure the EGR fitting is moved, coolant lines are slipped off the coolant tubes on the turbo, oil line is moved, and Air intake is pulled away from the turbo. While holding the mani into place, remove the bolts and then the mani and turbo will be loose. You will need to pull it straight toward the front of the car then lift it up. The air intake tube can be bothersome so make sure its moved well.
Congratulations you have now removed the turbo and manifold.
Removing Stock ‘S’ Pipe
Now that our cute little turbo is out of the car we should put it in a dust/dirt free place because one grain of sand can blow this baby up.
Once safe, you will need a 12mm socked and wrench. CAREFULLY spray the NUTS ONLY with Pb blaster. Let Sit. These bolts can be a little tough as sometimes the dealer can cross thread them but more so they are in an extreme heat environment so they get a little tight. Using the wrench and socket remove the nuts carefully. If they seem tight spray more, and let sit. They will be a little tight but shouldn’t be stuck, if they are proceed accordingly. You don’t want to snap a stud off you will be in a bit of a bind. If you do its not the end of the world but it will have to be removed professionally or otherwise. Once all 5 nuts are removed you need a 13mm or 14mm open wrench to loosen the 2 bolts so that you can remove the heat shield. One bolt is pretty free to turn the other is going to touch the coolant fitting, so just loosen them till you can pull the heat shield up.
Now pull the ‘S’ pipe away from the turbocharger, save the copper gasket that’s on there, as it will need to be reused.
Congratulations you have now removed the ‘S’ Pipe
Installing the GHL Down Pipe
I tried to put the GHL pipe on first then installing the turbo and it was too tight for me, I just couldn’t get it in. So, what you need to do is this. You will need 2 people to make this go smoothly but it’s really easy this way.
One of you bring the newly stripped turbo to the car (Don’t forget the copper gasket), lower it like you are going to put it on the studs but don’t. The other person gets under the car with the GHL down pipe. Now, with one person hovering the turbo in the empty space that the radiator was in (watch the AC condenser, also fragile) fit the GHL down pipe onto the turbo charger from below, secure with a nut or 2 hand tight. Make sure the GHL down pipe is on ALL the way, but hand tight. Then guide the manifold onto the 2 studs. You will probably have to move the Air intake tube out of the way; it will spring back to its installed location. Install the 2 stud nuts and tighten hand tight so the manifold doesn’t fall off.
Now get some anti-seize compound and put it on the nuts or studs if you can. Put all 5 nuts on hand tight to the down pipe. Now that the down pipe is temporarily secured, reinstall the manifold bolts. They are torque'd to 14-16Ft lbs. don’t over tighten them as you may strip a stud or have head problems as its aluminum (soft). Once the bolts and studs are installed you can use a 12mm socked and wrench to tighten the 5 down pipe bolts tight. Before you tighten the 2 top ones you will need to reinstall the heat shield. Then you can tighten the rest down. Don’t forget to tighten the 2 inner bolts back down that are on the inside of the heat shield. To get the rear bolt on the flange I used my open wrench and went up from where the oil return line was, it’s easier from that side. The other bolts can be reached from the top.
Once the bolts are tightened the down pipe is installed.
Reinstall Everything
I am not going to go into detail on the reinstall because it’s basically reversing what was done. Just make sure to check all bolts twice, once they are all tightened, check them again, better safe then sorry.
Once the Coolant lines, oil lines, vacuum line, EGR, line separator, oil line (when you retighten this make sure its not touching the turbo outlet or you wont be able to put on your Turbo to IC pipe, make sure it’s angled a good ½ away, and everything are back tightened to spec, then install the air intake, and radiator. Once the radiator is back in, then install the fans (don’t forget to hook up the electrical connections), then the coolant hoses. Now you can install your o2 sensor and heat shield. Once everything is back to where you started you can fill your radiator and coolant overflow back up with some fresh coolant mix.
Now your almost there.
Installing the GHL Mid Pipe (Cat / Resonator pipe)
Put the stock rubber hangers on the GHL mid pipe or the stock front hangers, it doesn’t really matter. Put one of the clamps onto the down pipe so when you install the pipe it’s ready and waiting. Then slide the pipe over the cross member and into the down pipe. Now suspend the pipe with the hangers. Wiggle the mid pipe into the GHL down pipe and make sure it’s all the way in. You may have to tap it GENTLY with a rubber mallet to get it to seat all the way in. Once this is installed and secure you can install, hand tight, your down stream 02 sensor (to keep it clean). Don’t tighten it yet.
Installing the GHL Cat back Pipe
Now that your cat pipe is installed, you can go about installing the rest of the system. If you are on ramps or stands, it will be REALLY difficult to put the rest on as it’s a tight squeeze and getting the muffler section over the rear axle is hard when the rear of the car is almost on the ground. At this point I suggest you roll the car off the ramps and either back it onto ramps or jack the rear of the car.
As usual, use common sense and proper jack points.
Now that we have ample clearance, we can install the rest of the system. Put a clamp on the pipe you are about to install so when you install it into the resonator pipe the clamp can be installed. Slip the pipe that goes past the resonator onto the resonator pipe. Make sure it’s in all the way and, again, you may need to tap it gently. Now since this section doesn’t have any hangers, if you are alone, I suggest holding the section up with zip ties or a jack or something (try not to scratch it). With that part installed, you can now put the stock rubber hangers onto the rear section. Put a clamp on the muffler or other installed section and then slide it over the axle into the last pipe, and onto the hangars. At this point is where you want to adjust the system. Each slip fit connection should be inserted so you can’t see the connection in the slit of the slip, once its clear, any further in is where your adjustments take place. Once you have everything in and where it looks like you have ample clearance you can tighten the clamps. They should be installed in the middle of the slip fit connection. Tighten, and enjoy.
Put the car on the ground carefully, and reconnect the battery. Those of you with alarms it may sound, as the car has been unhooked for the duration of the install.
Now start the car and let it warm up, as with most aftermarket exhausts. Check for rattles and leaks, and adjust accordingly. There may be smoke in the engine bay or the exhaust as these are fluids and chemicals burning off. As long as everything is installed properly this is perfectly normal.
Enjoy your new GHL Exhaust.