Help with AEM WB02 gauge

[pdhaudio83]

My car is sitting in storage a ways away, and I have to figure out if there is an easy way to move my gauges when I get the car back. I have the AEM WB mounted in a autometer pillar, but I want to move it to the dash possibly, BUT
here is the issue

My firewall grommet is on SO TIGHT (with all the shit going to the engine- Haltech, multiple gauge wires) that I DOUBT I could get the grommet completely back on.

QUESTION BEING: Isn't the ONLY disconnect for the gauge from the sensor like only 12" from the sensor? I hope there is a disconnect somewhere else, because I don't want to have to bring all the wiring back thru the grommet :(

If you dont get what i mean here:
where is the first opportunity to disconnect the gauge from the sensor? how far from the actual gauge?

thanks.
PICS of the WB and wiring would help, i couldnt find ANY that helped or showed all the wiring on google.

[pdhaudio83]

My car is sitting in storage a ways away, and I have to figure out if there is an easy way to move my gauges when I get the car back. I have the AEM WB mounted in a autometer pillar, but I want to move it to the dash possibly, BUT
here is the issue

My firewall grommet is on SO TIGHT (with all the shit going to the engine- Haltech, multiple gauge wires) that I DOUBT I could get the grommet completely back on.

QUESTION BEING: Isn't the ONLY disconnect for the gauge from the sensor like only 12" from the sensor? I hope there is a disconnect somewhere else, because I don't want to have to bring all the wiring back thru the grommet :(

If you dont get what i mean here:
where is the first opportunity to disconnect the gauge from the sensor? how far from the actual gauge?

thanks.
PICS of the WB and wiring would help, i couldnt find ANY that helped or showed all the wiring on google.

[BRIAN MP5T]

There is another place to run the wire on the passenger side.

[BRIAN MP5T]

There is another place to run the wire on the passenger side.

[pdhaudio83]

crap, come to think of it, i will have to still get that huge ass connector thru the grommet to remove the old gauge.

[pdhaudio83]

crap, come to think of it, i will have to still get that huge ass connector thru the grommet to remove the old gauge.

[BRIAN MP5T]

On the passenger side, behind the carpet above the ECU. No picture dude. There are a bunch of wires there, but there is still room.

[BRIAN MP5T]

On the passenger side, behind the carpet above the ECU. No picture dude. There are a bunch of wires there, but there is still room.

[pdhaudio83]

um, thats where all my wires are going thru now :(

[pdhaudio83]

um, thats where all my wires are going thru now :(

[pdhaudio83]

doh

[pdhaudio83]

doh

[BRIAN MP5T]

um, thats where all my wires are going thru now :(

(mj)

Ok, another solution for you.

This involves the Drivers Fender. There is a gromet behind the cover for the fuse panel. Remove the Door Sill, Pull back on the Rubeer seal that runs vertical, then remove the entire cover for the interior fuse panel. You will see about one foot off the floor on the inside of the car above the fuse panel a gromet. It goes into the fender...

You can run wires there to here..

[BRIAN MP5T]

um, thats where all my wires are going thru now :(

(mj)

Ok, another solution for you.

This involves the Drivers Fender. There is a gromet behind the cover for the fuse panel. Remove the Door Sill, Pull back on the Rubeer seal that runs vertical, then remove the entire cover for the interior fuse panel. You will see about one foot off the floor on the inside of the car above the fuse panel a gromet. It goes into the fender...

You can run wires there to here..

[BRIAN MP5T]

doh

F-ing Rats Next

[BRIAN MP5T]

doh

F-ing Rats Next

[METAL]

the best way to do it is how I did mine.cut the damn wire,it's to long anyway.
the only reason they make it with the connector is because the sensor is replacable.

it makes for a much cleaner install.

there is a hole mid firewall,upper,accesible from the drivers side approx. 1/2|" dia.makes a great spot for dash mounted gauges going straight to the engine.

[terbow]

If you have the 6n1 AEM WB it disconnects at the gauge (if its the metal bezel) it just disconnects at the sensor. I used the old AMP wire grommit behind the clutch pedal (and upwards). I just had to cut it a lil bit to get that huge ass connector through.

and dont cut the wire cause if u dont put it back together corectly it will affect the gauge readings.

it only takes 5 mins extra to move it correctly.

im having deja vu about cutting the wire posts. ( ^^you must be wicked :) )

[pdhaudio83]

def don't its from aug 04.

[terbow]

yea thats y i got rid of mine, plus it only reads down to 11. boo

[METAL]

If you have the 6n1 AEM WB it disconnects at the gauge (if its the metal bezel) it just disconnects at the sensor. I used the old AMP wire grommit behind the clutch pedal (and upwards). I just had to cut it a lil bit to get that huge ass connector through.

and dont cut the wire cause if u dont put it back together corectly it will affect the gauge readings.

it only takes 5 mins extra to move it correctly.

im having deja vu about cutting the wire posts. ( ^^you must be wicked :) )



BUT OF COURSE IT'S WICKED!!!!!!!!!(band)


cutting it won't affect anything if you solder them back together,and shrink tube them

[terbow]

yea properly. I dont assume everyone can. lol

[pdhaudio83]

I will cut them then, its too much a PITA to get that huge ass harness thru.

I will be buying a new 6in1.

[terbow]

if ur buying a 6n1 its a tiny clip that goes to the back of the gauge. its really easy

[t3ase]

eh, if you solder and heatshrink the connections back together, why would it affect readings?

[t3ase]

eh, if you solder and heatshrink the connections back together, why would it affect readings?
Just saw the previous reply about soldering and shrinking. Nevermind.

[Peepsalot]

yea properly. I dont assume everyone can. lol
http://www.dansdata.com/portasol.htm
Butane soldering iron, cordless for easy in-car use and extra tip for blowing hot air doubles as a perfect heat shrink tool. It's the shit! Just be careful when swapping the tip not to drop a hot one on you upholstery (hand)

[METAL]

thats a lot like mine,but I got mine from snap-on.

[t3ase]

Eh, Home Depot has small "BernzOMatic" butane torches for like $25. Just learn to use one of those without burning the shit out of wires/cars while soldering and you're set. Butane's cheap as hell to refill and you can't beat having soldering available anywhere you have solder and the torch.

[Peepsalot]

Have you actually soldered with one before? (boom01) I can't imagine soldering with a torch. The butane soldering iron is nice because the flame is contained within the tip(well, depending on the tip you use). You have to atually touch the soldering tip to the wire to make it work, not point a flame at it. I just don't think one of those torches would have the precision required for soldering wires that aren't all 1ft apart.

[t3ase]

thats all I solder with.

We take the tips off and use the flame. =)

[pdhaudio83]

An AEM engineer confirmed to me it is safe to cut, and use solder and heat shrink to do this.

[t3ase]

I don't see why it wouldn't be. Wires are wires are wires.

[terbow]

http://www.dansdata.com/portasol.htm
Butane soldering iron, cordless for easy in-car use and extra tip for blowing hot air doubles as a perfect heat shrink tool. It's the shit! Just be careful when swapping the tip not to drop a hot one on you upholstery (hand)

nice. i got the gun type like vinny on occ. maybe ill make some choppers and stop messing with this mazda stuff ;)

[terbow]

I don't see why it wouldn't be. Wires are wires are wires.

I agree. I read once when they first came out that you shouldnt (on the aem forum) but it was back then, im sure any myth was clarified.

[pdhaudio83]

well if not done very carefully, it WILL alter the readings. I've seen people posting at aempower.com that have tried and gotten inaccurate readings after.

[METAL]

well if not done very carefully, it WILL alter the readings. I've seen people posting at aempower.com that have tried and gotten inaccurate readings after.


only way it could alter them is if it's not fully soldered,,or if they don't use correct sized heat shrink,and it corrodes inside.

it's a good idea to put some dielctric inside the heat shrink.

[t3ase]

thats a bit overkill, in my opinion.

with proper soldering and wrapping, any connection is set for life.

[METAL]

thats a bit overkill, in my opinion.

with proper soldering and wrapping, any connection is set for life.


depending on where you live.if you live by the ocean,then I highly reamend it.

[505zoom]

Yup, had this same problem when moving my gauge to the steering wheel pod, and I just went ahead and cut/soldered. Readings were and still are fine.

[tekkie]

I cut my cables about 6 inches or so from the gauge because getting the gauge pod off was a pita

so I put quick connectors on the wires then and then it was easy to remove, glad I did it because my gauge went bad and I had to replace it :(

but the good thing is they sent me one of the new ones that just plugs into the gauge :)

[pdhaudio83]

Jamie- your gauge went bad? What you mean? Did it have anything to do with the wiring?

[tekkie]

nope it worked fine for a while but then it just started reading all fkd up

from what I know there is a thermoster that heats up the 02 sensor, that thing seemed to be fkd up because if I ran the car real hard it would start reading properly ( I think) otherwise it just stuck to 14.7

so the gauge looked fine it just would not read properly, I called AEM and they said the error code I was getting when it started up was the issue. The gauge was sending the wrong output voltage to the 02 sensor.

I had all this shit written down but it was on my old hd that blew up :(