Oxidized Paint. It looks like this, and it's fixed like this...

[2Shiny]

This is "Classic Red" paint on a 2000 Protege. If you don't protect your paint, especially in the case of single stage paints like this one, it will fade fast. This car had more pink on it than red, because of so much fading over the years.

To remove this oxidation, you have two options:

1. Apply an abrasive polish. This will actually remove the top layer of clearcoat (or basecoat in this case...no clearcoat on SS paints). The oxidation is in that top layer of clearcoat, so removing the clear will in turn remove the oxidation.

2. Apply a nonabrasive paint cleaner. These products use chemical cleaners to remove oxidation, stains, stubborn bugs, etc... from surfaces. Abrasive polishes work by mechanical cleaning.

When applying an abrasive polish, you remove swirls/scratches and oxidation at the same time. In the case of this car, it had swirls, oxidation, and some holograms from someone improperly using a polisher of some sort.

Oxidation:
http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/DullPillar.JPG

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/DullFender1.JPG

Oxidation and holograms:
http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/HoodBefore.JPG

In the process of fixing the hood...

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/HalfHood11.JPG

This is how the red paint is supposed to look:

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/After14.jpg

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/FenderAfter1.jpg


Another related picture. This is a 1991 Accord with a single stage Maaco paintjob. You can see it got very oxidized, and half of this trunk was polished with Poorboy's SSR3 (very strong compound). You can see that some of the paint was removed, and shows up brown on the pad. If it had been clearcoated, there would be clear paint transfer on the pad, but obviously you would not be able to see it.

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/EricPad.JPG


Questions?

[2Shiny]

This is "Classic Red" paint on a 2000 Protege. If you don't protect your paint, especially in the case of single stage paints like this one, it will fade fast. This car had more pink on it than red, because of so much fading over the years.

To remove this oxidation, you have two options:

1. Apply an abrasive polish. This will actually remove the top layer of clearcoat (or basecoat in this case...no clearcoat on SS paints). The oxidation is in that top layer of clearcoat, so removing the clear will in turn remove the oxidation.

2. Apply a nonabrasive paint cleaner. These products use chemical cleaners to remove oxidation, stains, stubborn bugs, etc... from surfaces. Abrasive polishes work by mechanical cleaning.

When applying an abrasive polish, you remove swirls/scratches and oxidation at the same time. In the case of this car, it had swirls, oxidation, and some holograms from someone improperly using a polisher of some sort.

Oxidation:
http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/DullPillar.JPG

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/DullFender1.JPG

Oxidation and holograms:
http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/HoodBefore.JPG

In the process of fixing the hood...

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/HalfHood11.JPG

This is how the red paint is supposed to look:

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/After14.jpg

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/FenderAfter1.jpg


Another related picture. This is a 1991 Accord with a single stage Maaco paintjob. You can see it got very oxidized, and half of this trunk was polished with Poorboy's SSR3 (very strong compound). You can see that some of the paint was removed, and shows up brown on the pad. If it had been clearcoated, there would be clear paint transfer on the pad, but obviously you would not be able to see it.

http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/EricPad.JPG


Questions?

[BRIAN MP5T]

Did you ever do that to a yellow P5.

It's like there is no clear coat on it. The yellow literally comes off in the rag.

[BRIAN MP5T]

Did you ever do that to a yellow P5.

It's like there is no clear coat on it. The yellow literally comes off in the rag.

[2Shiny]

I believe the yellow on P5s is also a single stage, meaning that it does not have a clearcoat. If you polish any SS paintjob, you will get color on the paint/towels that is the color of the car. The basecoat is unprotected, so it must be waxed/sealed. Otherwise it fades, as seen above.

But clearcoated paints will fade as well. The clearcoat will get oxidized, appear hazy, and prevent light from penetrating to the color pigment and back out. If that cannot happen, the true color of the paint will not be seen.

[2Shiny]

I believe the yellow on P5s is also a single stage, meaning that it does not have a clearcoat. If you polish any SS paintjob, you will get color on the paint/towels that is the color of the car. The basecoat is unprotected, so it must be waxed/sealed. Otherwise it fades, as seen above.

But clearcoated paints will fade as well. The clearcoat will get oxidized, appear hazy, and prevent light from penetrating to the color pigment and back out. If that cannot happen, the true color of the paint will not be seen.

[BRIAN MP5T]

That would scare the shit out of me If I had a yellow P5.

WTF? Why no clear..

[BRIAN MP5T]

That would scare the shit out of me If I had a yellow P5.

WTF? Why no clear..

[2Shiny]

I'm not sure. Ask Mazda.

I still have a pink pad from that red Protege! It wouldn't wash out all the way. :( It's supposed to be a green pad.

[2Shiny]

I'm not sure. Ask Mazda.

I still have a pink pad from that red Protege! It wouldn't wash out all the way. :( It's supposed to be a green pad.

[t3ase]

use a PC?

[t3ase]

use a PC?

[2Shiny]

Yes I did.

Poorboy's SSR2.5 via PC and green Propel pad.
Klasse AIO via PC and green Propel pad.
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant by hand
Nattys Paste by hand

If you take a look in the Extreme Detail forum on Autopia, you'll see that I won the contest (and $100 gift certificate) for the 2nd time (woot) with that car. You can see more pics and the full process there too if you're interested.

[2Shiny]

Yes I did.

Poorboy's SSR2.5 via PC and green Propel pad.
Klasse AIO via PC and green Propel pad.
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant by hand
Nattys Paste by hand

If you take a look in the Extreme Detail forum on Autopia, you'll see that I won the contest (and $100 gift certificate) for the 2nd time (woot) with that car. You can see more pics and the full process there too if you're interested.

[Aric]

when liberty autocity detailed ken's car the entire detail area was yellow with his paint. That was also the time they killed his bumpers and tried to blame it on the sun.

[Aric]

when liberty autocity detailed ken's car the entire detail area was yellow with his paint. That was also the time they killed his bumpers and tried to blame it on the sun.

[2Shiny]

Yeah that's what happens when you use a high-speed rotary polisher on a bumper with lots of curves. Concentrated heat + thin paint = not good.
Plastic bumpers have very thin paint. You have to be very careful around them when polishing with a rotary.

[2Shiny]

Yeah that's what happens when you use a high-speed rotary polisher on a bumper with lots of curves. Concentrated heat + thin paint = not good.
Plastic bumpers have very thin paint. You have to be very careful around them when polishing with a rotary.

[Ken@ProtegeGarage]

the yellow is indeed a single stage paint. i have taken much of it off with simple hand waxing

[Ken@ProtegeGarage]

the yellow is indeed a single stage paint. i have taken much of it off with simple hand waxing

[Dexter]

Paul, I've got this scratch that showed up on my door and its going to really piss me off come springtime when the car will actually be clean. I'm going to take a picture and maybe you can tell me if it will buff out (by hand or machine) or not. thanks

[Dexter]

Paul, I've got this scratch that showed up on my door and its going to really piss me off come springtime when the car will actually be clean. I'm going to take a picture and maybe you can tell me if it will buff out (by hand or machine) or not. thanks

[2Shiny]

What caused the scratch?

[2Shiny]

What caused the scratch?

[Dexter]

What caused the scratch?

Brushing snow off the car. I think a small rock may have been involved or something.

[Dexter]

What caused the scratch?

Brushing snow off the car. I think a small rock may have been involved or something.

[vindication]

damn, you need to move closer to me.

[vindication]

damn, you need to move closer to me.

[2Shiny]

Brushing snow off the car. I think a small rock may have been involved or something.

Brushing it off with your hand or a brush? A snow brush will scratch your paint easily. And if you were doing it by hand, maybe a ring or watch was the culprit? If you were brushing snow off of the bottom half of the car, there's a good chance that some salt, dirt, or sand/gravel was stuck on the paint and you slid it along the paint.

If the car has a lot of snow on it and you want to remove some, the best thing to do is remove MOST of it, but not all. Leave a good 1/2" or 1" on the paint. If your car is waxed/sealed (It should be! lol), the snow will fall off once you start driving. Or the heat radiating outward from the cockpit will melt the snow touching the doors, and it will slide off soon afterward.

Never use a snow brush to clear snow off of your paint. Most of them are perfectly fine for use on the glass, but they will scratch your paint with no problem.

[2Shiny]

Brushing snow off the car. I think a small rock may have been involved or something.

Brushing it off with your hand or a brush? A snow brush will scratch your paint easily. And if you were doing it by hand, maybe a ring or watch was the culprit? If you were brushing snow off of the bottom half of the car, there's a good chance that some salt, dirt, or sand/gravel was stuck on the paint and you slid it along the paint.

If the car has a lot of snow on it and you want to remove some, the best thing to do is remove MOST of it, but not all. Leave a good 1/2" or 1" on the paint. If your car is waxed/sealed (It should be! lol), the snow will fall off once you start driving. Or the heat radiating outward from the cockpit will melt the snow touching the doors, and it will slide off soon afterward.

Never use a snow brush to clear snow off of your paint. Most of them are perfectly fine for use on the glass, but they will scratch your paint with no problem.

[2Shiny]

the yellow is indeed a single stage paint. i have taken much of it off with simple hand waxing


That tells you that whatever wax you're using has cleaners, abrasives, or both. So you now know that it's impossible to "layer" that particular product. A pure wax contains no cleaners or abrasives, and thus would not remove any paint.

May I ask what kind of wax you're using?