Explained - Synthetic Vs. Conventional

[BRIAN MP5T]

Ok, Here is a collection of information I have put together on the subject of Motor Oil, Mainly, Why bother to spend the extra sometimes 400% cost for a quart of oil. (pissed)

Definitions to start with.

"Oil", a suspension of minerals that are separated from crude oil in the cracking tower. The Crude is heated to different temperatures and then removed, graded, filtered and packaged by characteristic.

"Synthetic Oil", A Completely man made lubricant. It has no natural waxes and is usually made to a much higher tolerance than regular oil.

What Do The Numbers Mean?
On every bottle of motor oil there is a seal that gives you three pieces of information:

* The API service rating
* The viscosity grade
* "Energy Conserving" indicator (it either is or it isn't)

The API service rating is a two-letter rating that tells you the type of engine the oil is meant for (gasoline or diesel) and the quality level.

The viscosity grade (for example, 5W-30) tells you the oil's thickness, or viscosity. A thin oil has a lower number and flows more easily, while thick oils have a higher number and are more resistant to flow. Water has a very low viscosity -- it is thin and flows easily. Honey has a very high viscosity -- it is thick and gooey.

The standard unit used to measure viscosity is the centistoke (cSt). According to the Automotive and Industrial Lubricants Glossary of Terms:

Viscosity is ordinarily expressed in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of the fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid. Since viscosity varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is determined. With petroleum oils, viscosity is now commonly reported in centistokes (cSt), measured at either 40°C or 100 °C (ASTM Method D445 - Kinematic Viscosity).

The centistoke rating is converted into the SAE weight designation using a chart like the one shown on the Superior Lubricants Web site.

Multi-Weight Oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. This page from the Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ offers the following very interesting description of how the polymers work:

At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

This is why some companies choose to offer Single Weight Oil for Racing. The Royal Purple Synthetic that I run has a weight of 30W, they offer multi weight oil such as 05W30 and 10W30, but the single weight oil gives a more consistent oil. This is only recommended for cars that require this level of thought such as a motor designed to run at much higher HP than the original design permitted. It is not recommended to change the oil rating just because... You should research your oil requirements based on precise calculations or stick with the OEM recommendations..

Ok,

Why Pay the Extra money?

Basically, unless you need it, you don't have to pay. As long as your Oil meet the basic OEM requirements, Bob's your Father's Dog. Your Precious Warranty will fix any problems you might have. Hell, Millions of people have and will continue to run Conventional Oil.

End Of Discussion...

Now, for the rest of us who thing that good is not acceptable and want excellent... Enter the Synthetic. Right off the bat you are paying at least double the cost by volume. Why... The cost of R&D and the materials themselves. You are getting a better product.

All oils have a point of breakdown, as oil is heated it will still lubricate metal on metal contact and cool the parts as well. This is the point of having it there to begin with. So regular oil, regular driving, regular engine. No problem.

Synthetic oil has a much higher tolerance for chemical breakdown. Basically, it will continue to lubricate under harsher conditions.

It has the added feature of not Gelling in the winter. Conventional oils have suspended waxes in them that are natural. If you were to freeze 1 L of Conventional Oil and a MOBIL 1 down to -40 Deg and then pour them out, the Conventional Oil will run like cold honey. The Synthetic will pour almost as well as when it was warm. So cold starts in the winter... The oil is pumping much faster during those critical first second. The start is also easier because the oil pump isn't being forced to pump Gel through your filter.

(cool2)

[BRIAN MP5T]

Ok, Here is a collection of information I have put together on the subject of Motor Oil, Mainly, Why bother to spend the extra sometimes 400% cost for a quart of oil. (pissed)

Definitions to start with.

"Oil", a suspension of minerals that are separated from crude oil in the cracking tower. The Crude is heated to different temperatures and then removed, graded, filtered and packaged by characteristic.

"Synthetic Oil", A Completely man made lubricant. It has no natural waxes and is usually made to a much higher tolerance than regular oil.

What Do The Numbers Mean?
On every bottle of motor oil there is a seal that gives you three pieces of information:

* The API service rating
* The viscosity grade
* "Energy Conserving" indicator (it either is or it isn't)

The API service rating is a two-letter rating that tells you the type of engine the oil is meant for (gasoline or diesel) and the quality level.

The viscosity grade (for example, 5W-30) tells you the oil's thickness, or viscosity. A thin oil has a lower number and flows more easily, while thick oils have a higher number and are more resistant to flow. Water has a very low viscosity -- it is thin and flows easily. Honey has a very high viscosity -- it is thick and gooey.

The standard unit used to measure viscosity is the centistoke (cSt). According to the Automotive and Industrial Lubricants Glossary of Terms:

Viscosity is ordinarily expressed in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of the fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the more viscous the fluid. Since viscosity varies inversely with temperature, its value is meaningless unless accompanied by the temperature at which it is determined. With petroleum oils, viscosity is now commonly reported in centistokes (cSt), measured at either 40°C or 100 °C (ASTM Method D445 - Kinematic Viscosity).

The centistoke rating is converted into the SAE weight designation using a chart like the one shown on the Superior Lubricants Web site.

Multi-Weight Oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. This page from the Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ offers the following very interesting description of how the polymers work:

At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

This is why some companies choose to offer Single Weight Oil for Racing. The Royal Purple Synthetic that I run has a weight of 30W, they offer multi weight oil such as 05W30 and 10W30, but the single weight oil gives a more consistent oil. This is only recommended for cars that require this level of thought such as a motor designed to run at much higher HP than the original design permitted. It is not recommended to change the oil rating just because... You should research your oil requirements based on precise calculations or stick with the OEM recommendations..

Ok,

Why Pay the Extra money?

Basically, unless you need it, you don't have to pay. As long as your Oil meet the basic OEM requirements, Bob's your Father's Dog. Your Precious Warranty will fix any problems you might have. Hell, Millions of people have and will continue to run Conventional Oil.

End Of Discussion...

Now, for the rest of us who thing that good is not acceptable and want excellent... Enter the Synthetic. Right off the bat you are paying at least double the cost by volume. Why... The cost of R&D and the materials themselves. You are getting a better product.

All oils have a point of breakdown, as oil is heated it will still lubricate metal on metal contact and cool the parts as well. This is the point of having it there to begin with. So regular oil, regular driving, regular engine. No problem.

Synthetic oil has a much higher tolerance for chemical breakdown. Basically, it will continue to lubricate under harsher conditions.

It has the added feature of not Gelling in the winter. Conventional oils have suspended waxes in them that are natural. If you were to freeze 1 L of Conventional Oil and a MOBIL 1 down to -40 Deg and then pour them out, the Conventional Oil will run like cold honey. The Synthetic will pour almost as well as when it was warm. So cold starts in the winter... The oil is pumping much faster during those critical first second. The start is also easier because the oil pump isn't being forced to pump Gel through your filter.

(cool2)

[BRIAN MP5T]

http://www.bestsynthetic.com/images/amsoillogogreybg.gif

AMSOIL INC. set out to examine the specifics of the overly broad “Nothing Outperforms...” Mobil claim. AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ASL) and Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil were analyzed in five key bench tests measuring motor oil performance: NOACK volatility, flash/fire point, pour point, four ball wear and total base number (TBN). As shown in the charts below, AMSOIL outperformed Mobil 1 in all five areas

NOACK Volatility
The NOACK Volatility Test determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperature service. The more motor oils vaporize, the thicker and heavier they become, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy, increased oil consumption and excessive wear and emissions. A maximum of 15 percent evaporation loss is allowable to meet the API SL and ILSAC GF-3 specifications. As shown in the graph, AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil lost an extremely low 4.9 percent of its original weight during high-temperature service, maintaining its superior protective and performance qualities,while Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil lost 9.17 percent of its original weight.

Four Ball Wear
The Four Ball Wear Test determines the wear protection properties of a lubricant by measuring the wear scars produced by four metal balls in sliding contact under the test parameters. The smaller the average wear scar, the better the wear protection provided by the lubricant. As shown in the graph, AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil completed the Four Ball Wear Test producing a smaller wear scar than the Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil.

Flash/Fire Point
The Flash/Fire Point Test determines the lowest temperatures at which application of a flame will cause lubricant vapors to ignite (flash point) and sustain burning for five seconds (fire point). Lubricants with higher flash and fire points exhibit more stable volatility characteristics and are safer to use and transport. As shown in the graph, AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil has higher flash and fire points than does Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil.

Pour Point
The Pour Point Test determines the lowest temperature at which a lubricant flows.The lower a lubricant’s pour point,the better protection it provides in low-temperature service.As shown in the graph, AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil has a lower pour point than Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil.

Total Base Number
Total Base Number (TBN) is the measurement of a lubricant’s reserve alkalinity. The higher a motor oil’s TBN, the more effective it is in handling contaminants and reducing the corrosive effects of acids for an extended period of time. As shown in the graph, AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil has a higher TBN than Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil.


http://avtobaza.ru/images/oil/logo/mobil.gif

Our lineup of Mobil 1 Extended Performance high-endurance motor oils includes a 5W-30 grade, which is the viscosity most recommended by car builders over the last 10 years. This viscosity is recommended for most General Motors vehicles and many imports. The 5W-30 is a good viscosity for a broad range of applications and climates.

All Mobil 1 Extended Performance viscosity grades have been tested to be fully compatible with engine seals and conventional oils. A special oil filter is not required.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance motor oil is designed for today's longer service intervals. Mobil 1 Extended Performance products contain 50 percent more SuperSyn, 37 percent more cleaning agents, and 36 percent more anti-wear additives than Mobil 1. Mobil 1 Extended Performance with the Advanced SuperSyn System helps keep engines running like new and helps extend engine life by reducing wear and oil breakdown. Please follow the recommendations in your owner's manual while your car is under warranty.

[BRIAN MP5T]

http://www.bestsynthetic.com/images/amsoillogogreybg.gif

AMSOIL INC. set out to examine the specifics of the overly broad “Nothing Outperforms...” Mobil claim. AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ASL) and Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil were analyzed in five key bench tests measuring motor oil performance: NOACK volatility, flash/fire point, pour point, four ball wear and total base number (TBN). As shown in the charts below, AMSOIL outperformed Mobil 1 in all five areas

NOACK Volatility
The NOACK Volatility Test determines the evaporation loss of lubricants in high-temperature service. The more motor oils vaporize, the thicker and heavier they become, contributing to poor circulation, reduced fuel economy, increased oil consumption and excessive wear and emissions. A maximum of 15 percent evaporation loss is allowable to meet the API SL and ILSAC GF-3 specifications. As shown in the graph, AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil lost an extremely low 4.9 percent of its original weight during high-temperature service, maintaining its superior protective and performance qualities,while Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil lost 9.17 percent of its original weight.

Four Ball Wear
The Four Ball Wear Test determines the wear protection properties of a lubricant by measuring the wear scars produced by four metal balls in sliding contact under the test parameters. The smaller the average wear scar, the better the wear protection provided by the lubricant. As shown in the graph, AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil completed the Four Ball Wear Test producing a smaller wear scar than the Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil.

Flash/Fire Point
The Flash/Fire Point Test determines the lowest temperatures at which application of a flame will cause lubricant vapors to ignite (flash point) and sustain burning for five seconds (fire point). Lubricants with higher flash and fire points exhibit more stable volatility characteristics and are safer to use and transport. As shown in the graph, AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil has higher flash and fire points than does Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil.

Pour Point
The Pour Point Test determines the lowest temperature at which a lubricant flows.The lower a lubricant’s pour point,the better protection it provides in low-temperature service.As shown in the graph, AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil has a lower pour point than Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil.

Total Base Number
Total Base Number (TBN) is the measurement of a lubricant’s reserve alkalinity. The higher a motor oil’s TBN, the more effective it is in handling contaminants and reducing the corrosive effects of acids for an extended period of time. As shown in the graph, AMSOIL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil has a higher TBN than Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 Motor Oil.


http://avtobaza.ru/images/oil/logo/mobil.gif

Our lineup of Mobil 1 Extended Performance high-endurance motor oils includes a 5W-30 grade, which is the viscosity most recommended by car builders over the last 10 years. This viscosity is recommended for most General Motors vehicles and many imports. The 5W-30 is a good viscosity for a broad range of applications and climates.

All Mobil 1 Extended Performance viscosity grades have been tested to be fully compatible with engine seals and conventional oils. A special oil filter is not required.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance motor oil is designed for today's longer service intervals. Mobil 1 Extended Performance products contain 50 percent more SuperSyn, 37 percent more cleaning agents, and 36 percent more anti-wear additives than Mobil 1. Mobil 1 Extended Performance with the Advanced SuperSyn System helps keep engines running like new and helps extend engine life by reducing wear and oil breakdown. Please follow the recommendations in your owner's manual while your car is under warranty.

[BRIAN MP5T]

http://www.gasgas-online.de/catalog/images/motul.jpg
http://www.turbofrogperformance.com/Images/ELF/elf_new_logo.gif

SPECIFIC LL-01 5W30

Low viscosity engine oil
High powered Gasoline and Diesel engines
100% Synthetic - Ester based
$7.10 / 1 Liter

TYPE OF USE
Low viscosity, high HTHS Engine Oil especially designed for extended drain intervals for BMW gasoline and diesel engines when a BMW Long Life-01 approved oil is required.

PERFORMANCE

MOTUL Specific LL-01 5W-30 is especially designed for BMW Valvetronic engines, 4-cyliner, V-8, V-12 and inline 6 engines, to allow extended drain intervals, low volatility, high efficiency lubricant, friction reduction, high resistance at high temperature met in modern engines.
Anti-oxidation, Anti-wear, Anti-corrosion, Anti-foam properties.
MOTUL Specific LL-01 5W-30, environement friendly formula is the perfect balance between outstanding lubrication (high HTHS >3.5 mPa.s) and fuel economy due to its own viscosity grade.

http://store1.yimg.com/I/rodi_1829_80125586.jpg

Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic Motor Oil (1 Quart)

The unique, active formula of Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic Motor Oil is engineered to provide the ultimate in engine protection and performance. Castrol Syntec can be used with confidence in every gasoline engine passenger car, new or old, regardless of oil previously used. It is fully compatible with all conventional and synthetic oils.Syntec has been tested under the severest possible conditions to prove its outstanding durability. The result? Excellent performance in essential functions such as thermal stability, low oil consumption, resistance to oxidation, soot control, engine cleanliness and wear protection.
Features:

* Syntec provides far superior protection against deposits. Corrosive particles such as rust, acid, soot and oxidized fuel fragments can cause costly damage to critical engine parts. Syntec neutralizes these particles, suspending them away from engine sufaces.
* Now with even better protection against engine wear, Syntec can help extend the life of your engine.
* Syntec delivers the ultimate performance under high-temperature conditions: unsurpassed protection against volatility burn-off and viscosity increase.
* Syntec meets the world's toughest engine protection requirements, including European gasoline torture tests.
* Helps prevent sludge from forming in your engine.
* Neutralizes acids in your engine that can cause rust and corrosion on vital engine parts such as cylinders, bearings and hydraulic valve lifters.

Available Grades:

* SAE 10W-30
* SAE 10W-40
* SAE 05W-30
* SAE 05W-50

[BRIAN MP5T]

http://www.gasgas-online.de/catalog/images/motul.jpg
http://www.turbofrogperformance.com/Images/ELF/elf_new_logo.gif

SPECIFIC LL-01 5W30

Low viscosity engine oil
High powered Gasoline and Diesel engines
100% Synthetic - Ester based
$7.10 / 1 Liter

TYPE OF USE
Low viscosity, high HTHS Engine Oil especially designed for extended drain intervals for BMW gasoline and diesel engines when a BMW Long Life-01 approved oil is required.

PERFORMANCE

MOTUL Specific LL-01 5W-30 is especially designed for BMW Valvetronic engines, 4-cyliner, V-8, V-12 and inline 6 engines, to allow extended drain intervals, low volatility, high efficiency lubricant, friction reduction, high resistance at high temperature met in modern engines.
Anti-oxidation, Anti-wear, Anti-corrosion, Anti-foam properties.
MOTUL Specific LL-01 5W-30, environement friendly formula is the perfect balance between outstanding lubrication (high HTHS >3.5 mPa.s) and fuel economy due to its own viscosity grade.

http://store1.yimg.com/I/rodi_1829_80125586.jpg

Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic Motor Oil (1 Quart)

The unique, active formula of Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic Motor Oil is engineered to provide the ultimate in engine protection and performance. Castrol Syntec can be used with confidence in every gasoline engine passenger car, new or old, regardless of oil previously used. It is fully compatible with all conventional and synthetic oils.Syntec has been tested under the severest possible conditions to prove its outstanding durability. The result? Excellent performance in essential functions such as thermal stability, low oil consumption, resistance to oxidation, soot control, engine cleanliness and wear protection.
Features:

* Syntec provides far superior protection against deposits. Corrosive particles such as rust, acid, soot and oxidized fuel fragments can cause costly damage to critical engine parts. Syntec neutralizes these particles, suspending them away from engine sufaces.
* Now with even better protection against engine wear, Syntec can help extend the life of your engine.
* Syntec delivers the ultimate performance under high-temperature conditions: unsurpassed protection against volatility burn-off and viscosity increase.
* Syntec meets the world's toughest engine protection requirements, including European gasoline torture tests.
* Helps prevent sludge from forming in your engine.
* Neutralizes acids in your engine that can cause rust and corrosion on vital engine parts such as cylinders, bearings and hydraulic valve lifters.

Available Grades:

* SAE 10W-30
* SAE 10W-40
* SAE 05W-30
* SAE 05W-50

[BRIAN MP5T]

Oh BABY, Now We Talking...

http://www.royalpurple.com/

http://www.royalpurple.com/dragracer1/images/dr1i2.jpg

This is the tech-sheet for it. There have been independant studies that have found all their claims are true. It was designed by a "Chemical Enginerre who's specialty was industrial lubricant" It's his lifes work and quite remarkable. Basically. The Metal Protection is off the scale and the breakdown point is also off the scale. At $9.00 per L it's the most expensive, but who cares if it saves your motor how much it is...

Royal Purple strives to produce lubricants that provide the highest level of performance available on the market today. Because Royal Purple's sole focus is to create state-of-the-art lubricants it develops products that significantly outperform in laboratory settings and more importantly, in the field.

Many view lubricants as a commodity, where low price and service issues dominate purchasing decisions. Therefore, oil companies seeking large market share have a great incentive to keep manufacturing costs low and little incentive to dispel the myth and upgrade the quality of their lubricants.

Royal Purple, however, recognizes that lubricants are not commodities. Reliable equipment operation critically depends upon the quality of the lubricant used. Lubricant performance directly and significantly affects how long, how reliable, how efficient and at what cost (i.e. parts, labor, downtime, number of oil changes and energy costs) your equipment will operate. For instance, lubrication-related failures account for 54 percent of all bearing failures.

The key to Royal Purple's ability to outperform leading synthetic-based and mineral-based oils is Synerlec®, the cornerstone of Royal Purple's entire line of products. Synerlec® is Royal Purple's proprietary, lubricant additive technology that strengthens the oil film to provide extra protection and performance.

Summary of Customer Benefits:

High Film Strength
Royal Purple's lubricants are up to 700 percent stronger than other synthetic oils.

Reduced wear and downtime.
Improved equipment life and reliability.
Lower operating temperatures.
Reduced part replacement.
Reduced bearing and equipment vibrations.
Reduced maintenance costs.

Longer Oil Life
Royal Purple's lubricants last up to 400 percent longer than other synthetic oils.

Outstanding Corrosion Protection

Royal Purple's lubricants provide greater protection than traditional circulating and EP oils.

Uniquely combines both high film strength and outstanding rust and corrosion protection into one oil.

Excellent Demulsibility.
Royal Purple's lubricants save equipment and oil changes by rapidly and completely separating from water.

Proprietary additive technologies protect in wet environments by displacing harmful water from metal surfaces.

Rapidly and completely separates from water and does not emulsify with water.

High Cleanliness.
Royal Purple's bearing and hydraulic oils are typically 200 times cleaner than conventional lubricants delivered in steel drums or by bulk delivery.


http://www.royalpurple.com/arta/images/hrlogo.gif
“It occurred to us that we've yet to run a test with Royal Purple® oil that didn't result in a power gain—it might be a marginal gain (as with our little Acura Integra), but it's a gain. We've also torn down some of our dyno engines that have been seriously abused, but with Royal P in the pan, the bearings have looked new. So consider this an approval of the company's line of synthetic lubricants with Synerlec®. We also like the spray lubricant, and while we can't document any improvements thanks to synthetic wheel-bearing grease, it makes us feel like we're doing the right thing when we pack bearings with that stuff, too.” —David Freiburger, Hot Rod Magazine

500 LB-FT Small Block in Six Easy Steps Hot Rod Magazine
“This time it's a quest for torque. Luckily, we got horsepower as a bonus...Royal Purple bought us 7 hp and 10 lb-ft. Combined with the extra engine protection and heat resistance, this is a no-brainer.”

Engine Masters
“For the third year running, Royal Purple® synthetic motor oil was the oil of choice for the winner of the Popular Hot Rodding Engine Masters Challenge. This year’s 3rd annual competition saw 50 engine builders vying for up to $100,000—with the top three finishers all using Royal Purple products.”

http://www.royalpurple.com/pas1/images/group.jpg

Holy Shit, With that kind of testamony, why would you run anything but... 8)

[BRIAN MP5T]

Oh BABY, Now We Talking...

http://www.royalpurple.com/

http://www.royalpurple.com/dragracer1/images/dr1i2.jpg

This is the tech-sheet for it. There have been independant studies that have found all their claims are true. It was designed by a "Chemical Enginerre who's specialty was industrial lubricant" It's his lifes work and quite remarkable. Basically. The Metal Protection is off the scale and the breakdown point is also off the scale. At $9.00 per L it's the most expensive, but who cares if it saves your motor how much it is...

Royal Purple strives to produce lubricants that provide the highest level of performance available on the market today. Because Royal Purple's sole focus is to create state-of-the-art lubricants it develops products that significantly outperform in laboratory settings and more importantly, in the field.

Many view lubricants as a commodity, where low price and service issues dominate purchasing decisions. Therefore, oil companies seeking large market share have a great incentive to keep manufacturing costs low and little incentive to dispel the myth and upgrade the quality of their lubricants.

Royal Purple, however, recognizes that lubricants are not commodities. Reliable equipment operation critically depends upon the quality of the lubricant used. Lubricant performance directly and significantly affects how long, how reliable, how efficient and at what cost (i.e. parts, labor, downtime, number of oil changes and energy costs) your equipment will operate. For instance, lubrication-related failures account for 54 percent of all bearing failures.

The key to Royal Purple's ability to outperform leading synthetic-based and mineral-based oils is Synerlec®, the cornerstone of Royal Purple's entire line of products. Synerlec® is Royal Purple's proprietary, lubricant additive technology that strengthens the oil film to provide extra protection and performance.

Summary of Customer Benefits:

High Film Strength
Royal Purple's lubricants are up to 700 percent stronger than other synthetic oils.

Reduced wear and downtime.
Improved equipment life and reliability.
Lower operating temperatures.
Reduced part replacement.
Reduced bearing and equipment vibrations.
Reduced maintenance costs.

Longer Oil Life
Royal Purple's lubricants last up to 400 percent longer than other synthetic oils.

Outstanding Corrosion Protection

Royal Purple's lubricants provide greater protection than traditional circulating and EP oils.

Uniquely combines both high film strength and outstanding rust and corrosion protection into one oil.

Excellent Demulsibility.
Royal Purple's lubricants save equipment and oil changes by rapidly and completely separating from water.

Proprietary additive technologies protect in wet environments by displacing harmful water from metal surfaces.

Rapidly and completely separates from water and does not emulsify with water.

High Cleanliness.
Royal Purple's bearing and hydraulic oils are typically 200 times cleaner than conventional lubricants delivered in steel drums or by bulk delivery.


http://www.royalpurple.com/arta/images/hrlogo.gif
“It occurred to us that we've yet to run a test with Royal Purple® oil that didn't result in a power gain—it might be a marginal gain (as with our little Acura Integra), but it's a gain. We've also torn down some of our dyno engines that have been seriously abused, but with Royal P in the pan, the bearings have looked new. So consider this an approval of the company's line of synthetic lubricants with Synerlec®. We also like the spray lubricant, and while we can't document any improvements thanks to synthetic wheel-bearing grease, it makes us feel like we're doing the right thing when we pack bearings with that stuff, too.” —David Freiburger, Hot Rod Magazine

500 LB-FT Small Block in Six Easy Steps Hot Rod Magazine
“This time it's a quest for torque. Luckily, we got horsepower as a bonus...Royal Purple bought us 7 hp and 10 lb-ft. Combined with the extra engine protection and heat resistance, this is a no-brainer.”

Engine Masters
“For the third year running, Royal Purple® synthetic motor oil was the oil of choice for the winner of the Popular Hot Rodding Engine Masters Challenge. This year’s 3rd annual competition saw 50 engine builders vying for up to $100,000—with the top three finishers all using Royal Purple products.”

http://www.royalpurple.com/pas1/images/group.jpg

Holy Shit, With that kind of testamony, why would you run anything but... 8)

[jaw307]

not to spit on amsoils shoes but it didn't work for me. I used it in other applications and loved it but in the msp I was burning oil as soon as I started to put mobil 1 back in I stoped loosing oil. i just thought for my car it was too much of a perfect lubricant and slipped by the rings. just in my opinion and specific car.

[jaw307]

not to spit on amsoils shoes but it didn't work for me. I used it in other applications and loved it but in the msp I was burning oil as soon as I started to put mobil 1 back in I stoped loosing oil. i just thought for my car it was too much of a perfect lubricant and slipped by the rings. just in my opinion and specific car.

[BRIAN MP5T]

not to spit on amsoils shoes but it didn't work for me. I used it in other applications and loved it but in the msp I was burning oil as soon as I started to put mobil 1 back in I stoped loosing oil. i just thought for my car it was too much of a perfect lubricant and slipped by the rings. just in my opinion and specific car.


I moved this past summer and up till my last oil change before storing the car, I ran out of Royal Purple. I simply cant get it here. I noticed the same thing, I am also noticing that the oil has started to drop.

I am moving back to ontario shortly and I can't wait to be back in a place that stocks everything. Shit, The Amsoil thing bothered me so much that I bought a case of Royal Purple on E-bay for the spring... Never again will I run anything else...

[BRIAN MP5T]

not to spit on amsoils shoes but it didn't work for me. I used it in other applications and loved it but in the msp I was burning oil as soon as I started to put mobil 1 back in I stoped loosing oil. i just thought for my car it was too much of a perfect lubricant and slipped by the rings. just in my opinion and specific car.


I moved this past summer and up till my last oil change before storing the car, I ran out of Royal Purple. I simply cant get it here. I noticed the same thing, I am also noticing that the oil has started to drop.

I am moving back to ontario shortly and I can't wait to be back in a place that stocks everything. Shit, The Amsoil thing bothered me so much that I bought a case of Royal Purple on E-bay for the spring... Never again will I run anything else...

[t3ase]

I became a RP fan a long time ago.. No one sees why I drop the extra cash for it when they can do $19 oil changes but there's a definate difference, even noticed by my exgf, who knew nothing about cars.

[t3ase]

I became a RP fan a long time ago.. No one sees why I drop the extra cash for it when they can do $19 oil changes but there's a definate difference, even noticed by my exgf, who knew nothing about cars.

[TheMAN]

information from this thread is incomplete as there are MANY kinds of different oils out there.... other good ones of choice are redline's selection and the german made 0W30 castrol syntecs... both of which I use on my pro and my dad's 3 respectively

good information on oil is here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

on that page you will also find a study on that lucas "oil stabilizer" bullshit

[TheMAN]

information from this thread is incomplete as there are MANY kinds of different oils out there.... other good ones of choice are redline's selection and the german made 0W30 castrol syntecs... both of which I use on my pro and my dad's 3 respectively

good information on oil is here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

on that page you will also find a study on that lucas "oil stabilizer" bullshit

[BRIAN MP5T]

...redline's....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...
on that page you will also find a study on that lucas "oil stabilizer" bullshit

Thanks Edwin, I never did finish the thread. Do you have any ideas on what happened to me with AMSOIL (See Above)

I was totally upset with it...

P.S. That link is great. I'll update this in a bit with better info.

[BRIAN MP5T]

...redline's....
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/...
on that page you will also find a study on that lucas "oil stabilizer" bullshit

Thanks Edwin, I never did finish the thread. Do you have any ideas on what happened to me with AMSOIL (See Above)

I was totally upset with it...

P.S. That link is great. I'll update this in a bit with better info.

[TheMAN]

I don't know... but I'm burning half a quart of redline after 4500 miles

probably due to pinging

[TheMAN]

I don't know... but I'm burning half a quart of redline after 4500 miles

probably due to pinging

[BRIAN MP5T]

I don't know... but I'm burning half a quart of redline after 4500 miles

probably due to pinging

So you think it if you switched oil it would go away, or do you think all that was in my head and I need a Doctor...

[BRIAN MP5T]

I don't know... but I'm burning half a quart of redline after 4500 miles

probably due to pinging

So you think it if you switched oil it would go away, or do you think all that was in my head and I need a Doctor...

[Aric]

I too use royal purple. The stuff is great. two years ago I spun a rod bearing in my engine. A few months before I had done an oil change with a semi synthetic. At the time I didnt really know much better and it was cheap. With my new engine I will only use royal purple. Its like having alittle bit of insurance, but no oil can really save an engine from oil starvation.

[Aric]

I too use royal purple. The stuff is great. two years ago I spun a rod bearing in my engine. A few months before I had done an oil change with a semi synthetic. At the time I didnt really know much better and it was cheap. With my new engine I will only use royal purple. Its like having alittle bit of insurance, but no oil can really save an engine from oil starvation.

[BRIAN MP5T]

Hence the $300.00 AWR Oil Pan I Guess..

[BRIAN MP5T]

Hence the $300.00 AWR Oil Pan I Guess..

[Aric]

Be glad, most Moroso oil pans are around $425 and they leak. I have heard accounts of oil actualy leaking through the welds and metal on some of their pans.

I suppose if you did not want to go the oil pan route you could always go with the accusump system. The acusump can also be used to pre oil your engine.
http://www.accusump.com/

[Aric]

Be glad, most Moroso oil pans are around $425 and they leak. I have heard accounts of oil actualy leaking through the welds and metal on some of their pans.

I suppose if you did not want to go the oil pan route you could always go with the accusump system. The acusump can also be used to pre oil your engine.
http://www.accusump.com/

[BRIAN MP5T]

Be glad, most Moroso oil pans are around $425 and they leak. I have heard accounts of oil actualy leaking through the welds and metal on some of their pans.

I suppose if you did not want to go the oil pan route you could always go with the accusump system. The acusump can also be used to pre oil your engine.
http://www.accusump.com/

Yes I have been looking at that as well. I'm not sure if there has ever been a time except once a year (After Storage) that I have needed to Pre Oil the engine. At that Time, I take the valve Cover off and just dump a quart all over the shizzy and wait an hour.

I definately like the AWR Pan. It looks like a solid design and might even cool the oil better as it seems to be aluminium.

[BRIAN MP5T]

Be glad, most Moroso oil pans are around $425 and they leak. I have heard accounts of oil actualy leaking through the welds and metal on some of their pans.

I suppose if you did not want to go the oil pan route you could always go with the accusump system. The acusump can also be used to pre oil your engine.
http://www.accusump.com/

Yes I have been looking at that as well. I'm not sure if there has ever been a time except once a year (After Storage) that I have needed to Pre Oil the engine. At that Time, I take the valve Cover off and just dump a quart all over the shizzy and wait an hour.

I definately like the AWR Pan. It looks like a solid design and might even cool the oil better as it seems to be aluminium.

[Aric]

just having an extra quart will help keep things a tad cooler.
there are other advantages to having your engine pre oiled, Like a fresh supply of oil to the turbo before it starts spinning. bearing failure isnt as bad a problem now as it was long ago though. Like the 1986 chrysler laser i had could have used a preoiler, the turbo was so bad it sounded like a police siren when it would spool up and down, then the seals went out and the car wouldn't stop smoking.

[Aric]

just having an extra quart will help keep things a tad cooler.
there are other advantages to having your engine pre oiled, Like a fresh supply of oil to the turbo before it starts spinning. bearing failure isnt as bad a problem now as it was long ago though. Like the 1986 chrysler laser i had could have used a preoiler, the turbo was so bad it sounded like a police siren when it would spool up and down, then the seals went out and the car wouldn't stop smoking.

[BRIAN MP5T]

just having an extra quart will help keep things a tad cooler.
there are other advantages to having your engine pre oiled, Like a fresh supply of oil to the turbo before it starts spinning. bearing failure isnt as bad a problem now as it was long ago though. Like the 1986 chrysler laser i had could have used a preoiler, the turbo was so bad it sounded like a police siren when it would spool up and down, then the seals went out and the car wouldn't stop smoking.

Normally, in the summer I can start the car and the turbo would harldy spool at allt. The Winter and Colder tems switch up the high ilde and I find that is when I would really like to pre-oil the turbo. I have my Oil Pressure sending unit directly in-line with the Turbo Bearing Feed Line. It goes to 60 When cold almost exactly as soon as the first spark catches. The Pre-Oiler is a fantastic idea for when the car has been sitting or stored, but for daily use, Not required on this car.

[BRIAN MP5T]

just having an extra quart will help keep things a tad cooler.
there are other advantages to having your engine pre oiled, Like a fresh supply of oil to the turbo before it starts spinning. bearing failure isnt as bad a problem now as it was long ago though. Like the 1986 chrysler laser i had could have used a preoiler, the turbo was so bad it sounded like a police siren when it would spool up and down, then the seals went out and the car wouldn't stop smoking.

Normally, in the summer I can start the car and the turbo would harldy spool at allt. The Winter and Colder tems switch up the high ilde and I find that is when I would really like to pre-oil the turbo. I have my Oil Pressure sending unit directly in-line with the Turbo Bearing Feed Line. It goes to 60 When cold almost exactly as soon as the first spark catches. The Pre-Oiler is a fantastic idea for when the car has been sitting or stored, but for daily use, Not required on this car.

[BlackFSDET]

I run nothing but mobil 1 full synthetic and the car seems to run much smoother vs the ford motorcrap stuff that mazda put in it on my first oil change.


I figure that if putting anything but mobil 1 fully syn in a corvette will void the warranty than it must be good stuff.

[vindication]

I use amsoil in my dads truck in the front and rear differential, royal purple in my tranny, and castrol syntec engine oil 10w-30 in all my families cars.

[t3ase]

I run nothing but mobil 1 full synthetic and the car seems to run much smoother vs the ford motorcrap stuff that mazda put in it on my first oil change.


I figure that if putting anything but mobil 1 fully syn in a corvette will void the warranty than it must be good stuff.
I won't get in to specifics here but the "void the warranty" thing is not legally allowed.

Anyway, I'll never go back to conventional. Ever.

[BlackFSDET]

I won't get in to specifics here but the "void the warranty" thing is not legally allowed.

Anyway, I'll never go back to conventional. Ever.


I dont know why it would be, but thats a seperate topic. If you would post it in a seperate topic of IM me on AIM, i'd like to know more about that.

[Dexter]

I rock the Royal Purple. I like to rev high when pushing the car, and Royal Purple loves it, im sure of it.

[thekid]

Another important thing to note, is that all synthetics are not created equal... Synthetics like Mobil 1 and Castrol (non race stuff), still use non synthetic additives, where as Motul uses only synthetic additives in addition to the synthetic oil. I can't comment on Royal Purple or Redline since I don't know what kind of additives they use. Apparently the lack of synthetic additives is the case for most North American oils, where as the European produced Oils use synthetic additives.

[BRIAN MP5T]

Motul is Def a killer product.

To me the top are

RP, Aimsol, Motul