Did you just buy a Rotary powered car? Things YOU need to know!!

[Riken]

So you just got your first Rx7 or RX8. Whats this no pistons? You have a rotary engine you not familiar with now. Relax, its really not that different, but here are the little things you’ll want to do and know to make sure you enjoy the car and it lives a long and happy life.

The following is a brief summary of the rx8club.com forums collective wisdom after nearly 95,000 threads and 1.7 million posts. It is not totally comprehensive, but will cover most of the major issues for first time rotary RX8 owners. Most of the recall issues only apply to cars built before the 2006 model year, but double check you car just in case.

This pertains to mostly Rx8.

1. Occasional Aggressive driving is good – First off its fun, second, it helps prevent carbon buildup in the engine and intake system. Make sure you rev to at least 7500rpm to make sure all the intake valves open. You don’t need to redline every start, but once a day is fun and good for the car.

2. (Rx8)Make sure your car has the latest PCM flash and recalls – Below are the major recalls that seem to have affected most people. Most are simple and can be done by the dealer in a day.
a) PCM (Powertrain Control Module) Flash – The RX8 has a very complex computer driving the engine that has gone through several firmware upgrades. Make sure your on the latest PCM flash from the dealer.
b) In the summer of 2006, a major emissions related recall was conducted on 2004-2006 RX8’s related to catalytic converter, and in some cases engine failures. For most people, the recall simply involved a PCM update, some owners had faulty catalytic converters replaced, and some owners had engines replaced. If you own a used vehicle, make sure recall 4206F was performed.
c) Ignition Coils – older cars had coils that overheated and would misfire, its easily to tell by flipping a coil over and looking for a burn spot on the back side of the coils.

d) Starter and Battery – the original 04/05 RX8’s had a weak starter and battery that could contribute to flooding. Hard starts are the main symptoms, and the dealer can install an upgraded starter battery package to fix the issues.
e) Upgraded Spark plugs – along with the starter, the leading spark plugs went through a redesign in the 2005 to help with flooding issues. These improved plugs should be the only leading plugs you buy. (part #NGK RE7C-L) There is a new plug out there Ill check the part # and post it here.
f) Rough Idle – the Engine mounts and mount brackets were redesigned in 2005 to alleviate rough idle issues. Heat from the exhaust manifold can also damage the passenger side engine mount. Check with you dealer about an upgrade if this is an issue.

3. Use only OEM spark plugs – The RX8 and RX7 use special unique NGK plugs designed for rotary engines. The plugs should be replaced about every 25,000 miles, which is sooner than most piston engines.

4. Ive gone over flooding in another thread. Flooding is the term for the engine not starting due to excess fuel into the combustion chamber from a cold start and shutdown. Rotary’s, and most other cars, run rich at warm-up and then gradually lean out as the engine warms to operating temp. Starting a cold engine and immediately shutting it down before its warmed up can lead to excess fuel being left in the combustion chamber which makes the engine struggle to light off. The simple solution to not flooding is to properly warm the car up (coolant temp needle to the half way point) before shutting the engine off. Flooding tends to happen when people move their car to wash, repair or service something then immediately shut the engine down. The stronger starter and resigned plugs listed above have helped to alleviate this issue, but just make a practice of warming the car up before shutting it off.

5. Check the oil level every other fillup or twice a month – The rotary engine injects oil to lubricate the apex seals in the engine, so it naturally burns oil, especially the harder you drive. Most owners keep a quart of oil in the car at all times and check the oil twice a month.

That’s really it folks, there are of course other specific issues, but the above covers 90+% of the issues and problems associated with the RX8. Hopefully this provides a framework to better understand your car and the forums. Additional technical service bulletins and recall information can be found at
http://www.finishlineperformance.com...ins_index.html

[SpooledupRacing]

Great info... Tonight I will build one with the 7's

[Natey]

Killer write up. :)
Also, remember (I just want to reiterate #5), rotary engines burn oil as a normal part of the combustion process. If you're gonna put synthetic oil in your rotary engine, make sure it's high-quality stuff (Redline, ELF, NEO, EDIT, etc). Oils like Mobile1 & Castrol Syntec (not to be confused with Castrol GTX, which dollar-for-dollar IMO is the best stuff you can buy) may leave ash deposits after burning. That's no bueno.

Kinda weird that the points leader for the Rolex GT series is a Syntec sponsored RX-8. I asked them about it at Laguna Seca and they said, and I quote: "No Comment :lol: " .
http://rotarynews.com/node/view/977

[Riken]

Killer write up. :)
Also, remember (I just want to reiterate #5), rotary engines burn oil as a normal part of the combustion process. If you're gonna put synthetic oil in your rotary engine, make sure it's high-quality stuff (Redline, ELF, NEO, Mobile1, etc). Oils like Castrol Syntec (not to be confused with Castrol GTX, which dollar-for-dollar IMO is the best stuff you can buy) may leave ash deposits after burning. That's no bueno.

Kinda weird that the points leader for the Rolex GT series is a Syntec sponsored RX-8. I asked them about it at Laguna Seca and they said, and I quote: "No Comment :lol: " .
http://rotarynews.com/node/view/977

That was always in my minds and wanted to bring it up. And they answered with no comment. lol

[SpooledupRacing]

Just a heads up.. Mobil1 has been shown to leave LOTS of deposits in rotary engines..

thus why the only Synthetic oil I will use in a Rotary is ELF (it was designed for it) and Idementsu (sp)

something u may not have known... Idementsu was made specifically for the rotary engine.. this product still today is made by the ELF/Total company ;)

**if u cant find ELF or want a great deal hit me up**


again tonight I will post up some RX7 stuff

[Riken]

Just a heads up.. Mobil1 has been shown to leave LOTS of deposits in rotary engines..

thus why the only Synthetic oil I will use in a Rotary is ELF (it was designed for it) and Idementsu (sp)

something u may not have known... Idementsu was made specifically for the rotary engine.. this product still today is made by the ELF/Total company ;)

**if u cant find ELF or want a great deal hit me up**


again tonight I will post up some RX7 stuff

Yep many rotary owners stay away from Mobil1.

[SpooledupRacing]

RX-7 RELATED


Body and wheels

Can I use a 89-91 (S5) tail light on my 86-88 (S4)?
Yes with minor modifications to the body of the 86-88.
Here is a link on converting: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/taillights.htm

Will 89-91 (S5) mouldings or bumpers fit on my 86-88 (S4) RX-7?
other than some minor mounting hole differences on the front bumpers, the mouldings and bumpers will fit fine.

What size are my wheels?
The stock sizes all have an offset of 40mm or 40 ET and are:
14x5.5 (steel) w/114.3x4 bolt pattern (Base)
14x5.5 w/ 114.3x4 bolt pattern (Base, Luxury, 87.5-88 SE)
15x6 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (GXL, Sport, GTU, 91 coupe)
15x6.5 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (convertible)
16x7 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (Turbo, GTUs, Infini IV)

In addition please see below in this thread for stock wheel type and weight.

On the same vein, the stock tire sizes are:
14x5.5 = 185/70HR14
15x6 & 15x6.5 = 205/60VR15
16x7 = 205/55VR16

Will 3rd Gen RX-7 (FD) wheels fit on my 2nd Gen RX-7?
If you have 5 lug hubs and use spacers. Typically you need spacers around 25mm (1"), depending on tires


paint codes
Paint Codes:
86-88:
Artic Silver Metallic - J5
Tornado Silver Metallic - K8
Brilliant Black - PZ
Sunrise Red - RH
Crystal White - UC
Dover White - WU
Noble White - WY
Satin Gold Metallic - 1A
Claret Metallic - 2H
Royal Maroon Metallic - 3A
Sapphire Blue Metallic - 5A
True Red - NP

89-92:
Brilliant Black - PZ
Blaze Red - SQ
Crystal White - UC
Winning Silver Metallic - 1F
Shadow Silver Metallic - 3G
Harbor Blue Metallic - 5D
Brave Blue MC - 5N


electrical

Electrical (includes radio wiring and audio as well as warnings/beeps)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My wipers only work on low speed
The wiper switch has a relay inside that has failed. It will need to be replaced. There are several people that replace them, or you can do it yourself.

My tail lights don't work, but my head lights do
The light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch. If they are burnt, you will need to replace the light switch and light switch harness.

My dash lights don't work
Did you check the dimmer control??? If you did and they still don't work the light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch. If they are burnt, you will need to replace the light switch and light switch harness.


What type of bulb is used...
A full listing of the different types of bulbs is found in the Specifications section of this FAQ.

All my warning lights are on
It is normal for all the lights to come on, if the key is on, and the engine is not running, but they should turn of when the engine is running.
With the engine running the Alternator failure warning circuit in the CPU will switch the lights on when the voltage in the car drops under 12 volts. Either your alternator, belts, underhood fuse box connections may have failed. The voltage in the car and the voltmeter on the dash (only in non-turbo models) needs to be above 12.6 volts. If it is below 12.6 volts your alt is not producing enough power to run the car.
You also need it to stay at or above 13.6 volts to charge the battery.

The voltage in my car is Low or High
Normal operating voltage for cars is 14.4 volts. This is where the voltage should be when the engine is running. If it is not at this voltage, there is something wrong with the alternator or charging system or wiring.

13.5 volts is the bare minimum to charge the battery. Anything less than 13.5 volts while the engine is running is bad and indicates that the alternator is failing or mis-wired.

12.6 volts is battery voltage. If the car is at 12.6 volts or lower while the engine is running, then the charging system is not sufficent to even keep the car running and the car is running on the battery. This indicates that the alt has failed, or is disconnected.

Above 15 volts is very bad. 15 volts is the maximum that the electrical system works at. Above 15 volts and there is the potential of burning out electrical parts in the car such as the lights and computers. 15+ volts indicates the regulator in the alternator has failed or is disconnected.

What are the wire colors for adding aftermarket radio
LTBlue/Red= 12v+
LtBlue/White= +Accessory
LtBlue/Yellow= -power ant trigger
Red/Black=+ Lumination
White=Factory Amp Turn on

Ground to the body, use the 10mm bolt behind the center console front drivers access panel. Do not use the Red/Black as ground it will damage the interior light circuit and dimmer in the car

Front Speakers (maximum of a 15 watt peak from the radio):
LtGreen/Red= Left
LtGreen/Black= Left

LtGreen= Right
LtGreen/Yellow=Right

Rear Speakers (if applicable, if you have the amplified rear speakers again the Maximum of 15 watts peak is all the stock speaker amp input can handle):
Brown= Left rear
Brown/White= Left Rear

LtBlue= Right Rear
LtBlue/Orange=Right Rear


Some S4 models will have amplified doors woofers. There will be a round 6 pin low level DIN plug found on these models at the back of the radio.

Stock Speakers / Amps
Speaker Size:
Dash: 130mm (4”)
Door: 160mm or 150mm (6”) (note: true 6.5” speakers are 170mm)
Rear tower: 4” or 6"
Headrest: 3.5”
Rear floorboard: 5.25”

Amp Locations:
Door speaker amps are behind the driver’s dash speaker.
Front dash amps are next to the radio, or on the passenger’s side next to the pass speaker.
Rear amps are next to the radio (6" speakers), or on each speaker (4" rear speakers).
Headrest speaker amp is in the driver’s side just below the B pillar

My reverse lights don't work
Common if you had Clutch or Transmission work done recently to have the wires disconnected at the transmission. Occasionally the reverse light switch will also fail.

I keep hearing a beep beep beep
Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem.
1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal:
In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds.
2-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of engine speed signal:
The buzzer sounds twice and repeats when the vehicle speed signal is missing input and/or no engine speed signal is found (short circuit, broken wire, etc.)
3-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of stepping motor signal:
The buzzer sounds when there are broken wires or short circuits in coils or harnesses.
4-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of the power steering microcomputer:
The buzzer sounds 4 and repeats when there are circuit troubles other than with the micro computer.
5-beeps, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of steering sensor signal: Steering sensor is mis-aligned or failed or steering wheel has been improperly installed.

I keep hearing this loud buzzer every time I hit the red line
Yep, for your protection.

My clock/idiot lights don't work correctly or the clock doesn't hold memory when the key is off
Probably the fuse is blown or you have cold solder joints on the clock/idiot light panel.

My horn doesn't work
Probably bad solder joints in the CPU

I want to install an electric fan. How well will it cool? How much power does it give me? Which fan, and how do I install it?
**Personal Experience by myself Spooled up Racing**
I have a 3600 CFM Sprall puller on my S4, both when it was n/a and with the turbo swap it cools perfectly.. I have my fan wired in to come on with the key so it runs all times and I see no problems only gains.

My car is having trouble passing emissions, but I have new spark plugs, filters, cats, etc. What do I do?
J-rats Recipe for cheating emissions if its ABSOLUTELY necessary:

1. Turn variable resistor to full lean, or as lean as you can get and still run.
2. Trick ACV into pumping air to the cat all the time by removing the FORWARD UPPER vac hose, and capping it.
3. Run 87 octane
4. Run your tank down till your almost empty.
5. 2-3 bottles of alcohol in the tank. Drive VERY GINGERLY to the emissions station.
6. Once you pass go, DIRECTLY to a gas station and fill up with regular unleaded.

What emissions equipment can I remove?

This is a pretty good thread on that:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthr...hreadid=112251


My idle sucks or is erratic
Most likely the TPS is out of adjustment, but here is a further article to help:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html


Can I use a Cherry Bomb/ Glass Pack Muffler?
The rotary engines exhaust temperature is very high, and often will melt the contents of cheaper mufflers that use fiberglass or glass packing. This (depending on quality) can happen in a month or two or in some cases in a few hours.




ENGINE

My RX-7 rev's up to 3000 RPM every time I start it when cold
Yep, part of the accelerated warm up process. Start the car with the clutch pressed in, and the car in gear if you don't want it to do that.


My car doesn't start
Remember when starting a fuel injected car you should never pump or press the accelerator pedal, but if it won't start it is probably flooded, Hold the accelerator pedal all the way down while cranking, do not pump the pedal. If it still doesn't start after a few tries, Then remove the EGI fuse and crank a couple more times, then re-install the fuse and try starting again. If then the car still fails to start it then you need to remove and clean the spark plugs, put in a teaspoon of good quality 20W50 motor oil or a teaspoon of ATF into the lower sparkplug holes, re-install the spark plugs and try again. Make sure you change your oil after you have started and run the car ASAP.


I just got my car and I want to make it faster, what are the first modifications I should do?
Do a full 60K tune up, replacing all the fluids (including brake, clutch, tranny, engine oil, coolant, and rear end lube), spark plugs and cables, all filters (including fuel, oil and air), belts, any hoses that are leaking or bulging, and the O2 sensor. In addition if the car is more than 10 years old or has more than 120K miles on it, the Pulsation Dampener (or pimary fuel rail and integrated Pulsation Dampener on 89-91 FCs) should be also replaced.


I have this hesitation whenever I accelerate right around 3500-4000 RPM
The dreaded 3800 RPM hesitation is cause 90% of the time by poor ground connections between the engine, the battery, and the car. Clean or replace all the under hood ground connections. On 86 model year cars , replacing/regrounding the pressure sensor's ground wire has helped (do not re-ground a 87 or later model year). If there is still a problem after that, look at cleaning the fuel injectors and (on a N/A) that your 5th/6th ports are operating correctly.


My idle sucks or is erratic
Most likely the TPS is out of adjustment, but here is a further article to help:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html


I think my engine has been overheated. How can I check to see if the coolant seals are good?
Fill coolant system ALL THE WAY UP (engine cold). Make sure that the fluid level is as high as you can get it. Leave the filler cap off. Remove the EGI fuse. Crank the motor (it should not start). If you get a LARGE amount of coolant coming out of the coolant fill, its safe to assume your coolant seals are blown. Also, a good indication is a fuel/exhaust smell in the coolant.


Do I need to upgrade my fuel injectors in my NA?
Most likely, no. The stock NA fuel system can support up to about 250HP, which you will not be anywhere near unless you are running a big bridge port or a peripheral port. The stock NA actually runs quite rich, so you will see some gains by leaning out the mixture quite a bit. Adding larger injectors is just going to cost you power and waste gas.


What size injectors does my RX-7 use? What colour are they?
Year Engine Plug Size Colour Part #
84-85 13B NA, low square center, 680cc, orange, 195500-0900
86-87 13B NA, low square center, 460cc, red, 195500-1350
86-87 13B Turbo, low square center, 550cc, tan, 195500-1370
88 13B NA, high square offset, 460cc, purple, 195500-1350
88 13B Turbo, high square offset, 550cc, purple, 195500-1370
89-91 13B NA, high oval center, 460cc, red, 195500-2010
89-91 13B Turbo, high oval center, 550cc, purple, 195500-2020


My engine cuts out when turning, but there is plenty of gas... whats wrong?
Fuel tank sock is dirty and needs to be cleaned or replaced, and or the baffles in the fuel tank are rusted away.


How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine?
Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan.


Can I swap a Turbo engine/Jspec engine/13BT/etc into my Non Turbo?
Yes, check these links:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthr...threadid=26647
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...conversion.htm

How do I add a turbo to my NA 13B?
What Turbo kits can I add onto my non turbo RX-7?
There are no longer kits formally made at the time of this post, however there are companies from time to time that do make available non turbo to Turbo Kits. Because most of these companies stop building the kits, or go out of business in short time, it is impossible to keep active links for them.

Most people that turbo a non turbo make their own kits:
Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold with spacer, NA intakes and NA ECU:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo.htm
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthr...threadid=88540

http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthr...threadid=88758
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthr...hreadid=124232
http://users2.ev1.net/~ccoutts/turbo..._a_project.htm

Using the stock TII turbo, exhaust manifold, intakes, ECU:
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=37694



Will a 3rd Gen RX-7 (FD) twin turbo engine (13B-REW) fit in my 2nd gen RX-7?
The simple answer is No! The motor mounts are in different locations as well as other issues; however if you have enough time and money it can be done. Much of the project will be custom fabricating all the systems that attach to the engine such as the exhaust, intercooler setup, cooling system and wiring. A standalone EMS is almost required and it is very difficult to control the sequential turbos. Most people go to a single turbo because of this. In general this swap is not worth the time and trouble unless you plan on making more then 450 HP.

Here is a basic write up: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/FD3S/rew.html

There have been many past threads covering swapping the 13B-REW into an FC:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=724758
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=721243
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=717051
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=718967
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=636334
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=713592
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=712829
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=710959
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=710360
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=699306
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=690691
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=686057
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=628090
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=681876
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=663582
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=674513
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=672656
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=668437

Can I put the RX-8 engine (Renesis) in the 2nd gen?
Well, technically yes. But it is not a simple bolt-in swap. The Renesis uses different mounts, and an entirely different ECU and wiring harness. Anything can be done, but this is much more complicated then swapping any 2nd gen engine into the car. Lots of fabrication, wiring and other things must be done to support this engine. It is generally easier (and probably cheaper) to swap in the 20B three rotor, or the 13B turbo from the Turbo II.


I want to replace my rotary engine with a piston motor, what can I do?
Some people have done that, but it is generally not covered or even recommended to be brought up here in the 2nd Gen Sections, but rather in the Other Engine Section of this board. There are also other websites out there that cater to helping conversion issues.


How much Horsepower did my car come with from the factory?
At the Flywheel ratings:
86-88 NA = 146 HP @ 6500 RPM w/ 138 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
86-88 Turbo = 182 @ 6500 RPM w/ 183 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
89-91 NA = 160 HP @ 7000 RPM w/ 140 Ft/lb @ 4000 RPM
89-91 Turbo = 200-202 @ 6500 RPM w/ 196 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
Infini IV = 215 @ 6500 RPM w/ 206 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM

Can I install an 89+ intake on my '86-'88?
Yes, but it is not a direct bolt-on and some fabrication and wiring changes are necessary. Take a look at this website:
http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/intake.html

What is the size and thread for this bolt or nut?
See this topic in the Archive: Master List Of Thread Sizes for 2nd Gen Nuts and Bolts

How do I tell the difference between an S4 and S5 engine?
See the following topics:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=530583
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263870
Lots of Info: http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373451
Pictures: http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=341891
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=330057
Good thread: http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=594874

Where do I install the sensor for my aftermarket temperature gauge?
There has been lots of discussion about where to mount water temp sensors/senders. The best location is on the water pump housing near the stock ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor. Drill and tap according to the threads on your sensor (usually 1/8" NPT). It is important this this sensor be installed before the thermostat. See the following topics for more information:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=512268
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthr...ender+location
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=361867
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14683
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430129
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=403701
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137824

How do I remove the flywheel nut and flywheel?
The flywheel nut is torqued to approximately 350 Ft-LBs and is 54MM or 2 1/8" in size. You will need a large breaker bar or impact gun and then some means to keep the flywheel still as the nut is spun off. The flywheel can then be pulled off with a puller or pried off from behind. See the following topics:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=559740
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=552288
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=485098
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=483905
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=399637
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=408309
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273219
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244162
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176418
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169323
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83807

Do those cheap eBay "speed chips" or "mod chips" work?
No, they do not. In fact they're not even a "chip" (integrated circuit) but simply a 2 cent resistor in a fancy case. The theory is that by putting this resistor in series with the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor you can fool the car into adding more fuel by making the intake seem colder then it really is. In reality we all know that more fuel is not equal to more power and by messing with the IAT sensor the car will run too rich and lose power. Also the price is a total ripoff considering that anyone could go out and buy the same resistor for less then 5 cents.

Can I install the S5 (1989+) intake in my S4 (1986-1988)? If so, how?
Yes you can, though there is some debate on the power gains achieved.
See this website:http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/intake.html

Can I Run Nitrous Oxide On A Rotary?
Yes, but if you don't know what you are doing you can cause some serious engine damage very easily. See this writeup:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=633853

Can I Rebuild My Rotary Engine? How Do I Rebuild My Rotary?
In general, anyone with a bit of mechanical skill and the ability to follow directions can successfully rebuild a rotary.
There are two archived topics which cover rebuilds and porting:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=639375
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=374810



GENERAL QUESTIONS

What should I look for when buying a 2nd Gen RX-7?
Non Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy1.htm
Turbo: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/buy2.htm
General: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/h2b.html


I don't want to buy a shop manual for my car, is there a place where I can still find out the information from one
Shop manuals for both series can be found on-line at:
http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html

or (86-88)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
and (89-91)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/
89-91 Wiring only:
http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a47/S5_wiring/


Where can I find links on specific 2nd Gen RX-7 information and models?
Searching this site is good. The search function can be found at the top right hand corner of the site. In addition these sites are recommended and can help with models and technical information:
http://www.fc3s.org/
http://fc3spro.com/
http://www.mazdamark.com/about_the_fc.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/
http://www.geocities.com/huguesdc1/
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq.htm


What kind of gas mileage does the FC get on average? What can I do to increase mileage?
The FC is a sports car, not a Geo Metro. Therefore, mileage on average seems to hover around 15-18 MPG city, and 23-26 MPG highway. If you are getting less, you either have a heavy foot or your car needs a tuneup.

As for increasing mileage, the first thing that needs to be done is making sure the car is in good tune. Do a full tuneup including plugs, wires, fluids, filters, timing, TPS adjustment and everything specified for the 60K tuneup (see Haynes/Factory service manual). Learn to drive with less of a heavy foot. Accelerate slowly, coast in neutral to stops, and keep the revs below 3800. A vacuum gauge helps (drive for most vacuum), as well as an A/F gauge (try to keep it in closed loop). You can get some great mileage if you are patient.

Some topics on mileage:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=438252
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429568
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=433231
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=424535
How to get better mileage: http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=412143


How long does a rotary engine run? Do I need to rebuild my engine?
Most 13Bs can last over 150-200K miles, while most 13BT engines usually last 125-175K miles, but remember that regular proper maintenance for the engines entire life is required for higher lifespan.


How is the FC in the winter? Is it safe to drive? How does it handle the snow?
Just fine actually. If you know how to drive, driving the FC is like driving any other RWD vehicle. A good set of snow tires is important, but there is nothing fundamentally "wrong" with the FC that makes it a poor winter car. Remember that with like any other light, RWD car, you need to be easy on the throttle and clutch. Take a winter driving course if you are unsure. Also, make sure the car is in good tune. Cold weather can make small mechanical problems into large mechanical problems very quickly. If you live in an area that uses salt on the roads, then it is very important to have the car undercoated (Krown, etc.) every year. Salt eats RX-7s. Aside from that, winter driving can be fun if done safely. Many of us in Canada drive our RX-7s year around.


What steps do I have to take to store my car for a long period such as the winter?
There have been many topics in the past covering storage. Here are a few good ones:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=447478
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=362195
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=365565
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103560
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=462826
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=468903
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/storage.htm

How do I take my car out of storage or start a car that has been sitting for a while?
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/unstore.htm


What does the VIN number mean/break down??

The North American Vehicle Identification Number breaks down like this:

RX-7 86-88 (8/85 - 12/88)
JM1 FC 33 1 * G 0 ######
JM1= Mazda Passenger Car
FC = RX7 Series
33= Coupe
35= Convertible
1= 1308cc 13B rotary non-turbo
2= 1308cc 13B rotary turbo
*= Check Digit
G= 1986
H= 1987
J= 1988
0= Hiroshima Plant
######= Serial Number


RX-7 89-91 (12/88 - 7/91)
JM1 FC 331 * K 0 ######
JM1= Mazda Passenger Car
FC= RX7 Coupe
33= Coupe
35= Convertible
1= 1308cc rotary non-turbo
2= 1308cc rotary turbo
331= Coupe w/auto shoulder belt
332= Coupe Turbo w/auto shoulder belt
333= Coupe w/o auto shoulder belt
334= Coupe turbo w/o auto shoulder belt
351= Convertible w/o airbag
352= Convertible w/ airbag
*= Check Digit
K= 1989
L= 1990
M= 1991
0= Hiroshima Plant
######= Serial number


Build dates by serial number:
Model year-----Production Date----Serial Number
1986--------------8/85 - 6/86------100001-200000
1987--------------6/86 - 7/87------500001-600000
1988-------------7/87 - 12/88-----600001-700000
1989------------12/88 - 12/89-----700001-800000
1990------------12/89 - 11-90-----800001-900000
1991--------------8/90 - 7/91------900001-950000


Where can I see what others have done to their cars? I need project ideas!
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=608165

How big can I make my signature in the 2nd Gen RX-7 technical section?
1. Custom signatures are enabled, but any graphics used in such signatures are limited to a 20K file size and 460 x 200 pixels.

2. Signatures are limited to six lines of regular text, including blank lines, or the equivalent size in picture, or picture/text combination.

3. There is currently no system to automatically check for signature size limits, so Admins and Moderators will be checking manually. Should your sig be found in violation, you will be asked to fix it; if you don't comply, it may be removed without warning. It is your responsibility to edit your sig and bring it within compliance.

Lubricants

My car seems to use a lot of oil. How often do I need to check it?
Everytime you get gas, you should check your oil level. The Rotary motor by design is supposed to inject oil into the engine based on throttle position. If you keep your foot on the gas a lot, you will use more oil. It is normal to use about 1 quart of oil every 1000 to 3000 miles.

How do I kill that buzzer in the dash that goes off when the cooling system or oil is low?
You need to bleed the coolant or fill the oil. The buzzer is there to help you from blowing up your motor.

I am having trouble keeping the car cool
Do you have:

OEM thermostat? (of KNOWN condition) do not use aftermarket thermostats like Stant in 86-88 engines
The plastic Undertray under the radiator and front of the engine?
A radiator with a clear core and not too many bent fins?
Two belts running your water pump?
OEM rad cap? (of KNOWN condition) (note: the stock pressure ( .9 bar) radiator cap suggested for proper cooling and system health).
A coolant mixture of at least 40% coolant, to 60% distilled water (do not use tap water) or 50/50 mixture (recommended in climates that drop under 0F).


Manuals
I don't want to buy a shop manual for my car, is there a place where I can still find out the information from one
Shop manuals for both series can be found on-line at:
http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html
http://208.62.166.66:82/guest/shop_manuals/
OR
(86-88 only)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
and (89-91 only)
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1989_1991/
S5 Wiring Diagrams:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=530860

Where can I find the dealer fiche/parts catalog?
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pages/cats/rx7pubs.html


Where can I find links on specific 2nd Gen RX-7 information and models?
Searching this site is good. The search function can be found at the top right hand corner of the site. In addition these sites are recommended and can help with models and technical information:
http://www.fc3s.org/
http://fc3spro.com/
http://www.mazdamark.com/about_the_fc.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/
http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/
http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq.htm


SPECS
How much Horsepower did my car come with from the factory?
86-88 NA = 146 HP @ 6500 RPM w/ 138 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
86-88 Turbo = 182 @ 6500 RPM w/ 183 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
89-91 NA = 160 HP @ 7000 RPM w/ 140 Ft/lb @ 4000 RPM
89-91 Turbo = 200-202 @ 6500 RPM w/ 196 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM
Infini IV = 215 @ 6500 RPM w/ 206 Ft/lb @ 3500 RPM

What type of bulb is used in my USA spec MAZDA RX-7 in the..

High & low beam headlamp
H6054
H6054ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: the whitest and brightest Halogen

Parking light
1157

Front turn signal
1157

Rear turn signal
1156

Tail light
1157

Stop light
1157

High mount stop light/Third Brake light
1156

Fog/Driving light
H3C-55W

License plate
168
89

Back up light
1156

Front sidemarker
194

Rear sidemarker
194

Ash tray
158

Map light
168

Dome light
DE3175
168 (spot lights on models equipped with factory sunroof)

Trunk/Cargo area
DE3022

Instrument-general
158
74

Hi-beam indicator
158

Automatic transmission indicator
158

Directional signal indicator in dash
158


For those without the FSM, slow internet, in a rush, or in the middle of a build and need some torque specs right away, here are the sheets Atkins gives out that were posted by another user.

The following weights are from Ted at FC3Spro.com:

Quote:
All items weighed on a Toledo shipping scale (200lbs. maximum, 0.05lbs. resolution) and NCI shipping scale (100lbs. maximum, 0.02lbs. resolution).

We will initially be throwing up random measurements as we weigh items.
It will all be restructured as time permits, but for now there is no particular order to which the items are listed...

Toledo scale accuracy +/- 0.10lbs. - absolute accuracy +/- 0.20lbs.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1989 GTUs/Turbo rims (two measured): used, both include valve stems and balancing weights = 17.10# / 17.05#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1988 10th AE wheels rims (7 openings) (4 measured): Factory painted, used, without valve stems and balancing weights = 21.10# (average)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock pre-cat - used, O2 sensor attached = 13.50#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 non-turbo stock exhaust manifold - used = 16.75#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock spare tire and rim - 24.85#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock turbo: used, dirty, NO lines except for rubber lines on wastegate = 21.70#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aluminum flywheel: used, stamped "MI" (Mueller Industry/Midway Industry?), NO counterweight, NO fasteners = 10.25#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock flywheels (two measured): used, NO fasteners = 27.55# / 27.40#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock front brake rotor: used, 10.9" (Mazda spec, NOT measured), rotor width measured at 5 different positions (5 lug positions) average 21.174mm (actual measured are 21.16mm, 21.18mm, 21.19mm, 21.18mm, 21.16mm; +/- 0.1mm) [Note: Mazda spec new is 22.00mm], used = 12.25#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
K2RD Stage 1 brake kit rotor: 12.19" x 1.25", new, two piece steel rotor with aluminum hat, fasteners (safety wired) included = 11.40#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Racing Beat 3" downpipe: used, NO fasteners = 6.50#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Racing Beat 3" pre-silencer - 15.65#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nippon Denso AC compressor: used, dirty, no fittings but black plastic caps on valves attached = 14.90#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock steel hood: used, windshield spray nozzles and hoses attached, all underhood insulation and front rubber flaps attached, 5A blue paint = 51.85#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock aluminum hood: used, NO windshield spray nozzles or hoses, all underhood insulation and front rubber flaps attached, hood stripped (NO primer base) and repainted yellow = 29.20#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock air pump - 8.80#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock interior heater/AC blower - 6.85#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock AC condenser core - 6.55#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock driveshaft - 13.95#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock driver's seat - 33.40#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1987 Turbo II stock passenger seat - 32.20#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Factory Metal Sunroof (w/out clips, headliner, etc- just the painted metal panel)(3 weighed) - 10.36# 10.40# 10.35#
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Fiberglass replacement Sunroof (w/out clips, headliner, etc- just the painted fiberglass panel)(1 weighed) - 5.46#



SUSPENSION AND DRIVELINE

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Can I install the Turbo II transmission into an NA?

Certainly. But you need to also install:
-TII flywheel, clutch, pressure plate
-TII slave cylinder
-TII starter
-TII driveshaft, differential, axels
-Adapt the wiring.

MazdaTrix makes a TII transmission to NA rear end driveshaft, so if you don't want to swap your rear end, you can use that shaft instead.

Can I install the RX-8 6 speed transmission into my 2nd Gen RX-7?
5th gear on the FE tranny is the same as the 4th on FC trannys anyway, so there is no real advantage of using the RX-8 tranny, and 6th on the FE tranny is actually taller (.83 vs .71) than the FC, resulting in lower gas mileage at highway speeds.
Using a RX-8 tranny would be like adding a extra gear between 2nd and 3rd to a standard 2nd gen RX-7 M or R type transmission.

Add in, that the RX-8 6 speed transmission is also about 4 inches too short, forcing you either to relocate the shifter 4 inches forward in the car, or move the engine 4 inches backward (towards the firewall) to make it fit in the stock shifter location.


Did my 2nd Gen RX-7 come with a Limited Slip Differential?
Only the following USA model 2nd gen RX-7s had a LSD from the factory:
86-88 GXL
87-91 T2
88 GTU
89-90 GTUs (however not the 89-90 GTU)
It is also rumored that a few rare 91 coupes with both the A (upgraded the interior trim, added a power sunroof, tilt steering wheel, cruise control, and 4 piston front disc brakes and vented single piston rear brakes) and the B package (leather seating, a CD player, and rear cargo cover) came with a LSD, but you should note that Mazda denies that any FC other than the T2 came with a LSD in 91). You can also tell by looking at the differential as there will be a LSD tag on S4 cars with a LSD.

Non US models with LSD info to come


**"Most" of this stuff was complied through RX7club.com and put together by ICEMARK**

[Natey]

:hand: lol, I meant to couple Mobil1 with Syntec. Thanks for the correction.

That's pretty cool about ELF making Idemitsu. I never knew that.

[chiefmg]

I don't have as much stuff as you guys, but here is what I know off the top of my head for first gens:

SA
Introduced in '78 as '79 model
Produced in '79 and '80
Two trim levels- S and GS
12A engine w/four speed transmission
Special model in 1980- LS (Leather Special)

FB
Minor redesign introduced in 1981, produced until 1985
Three trim levels- S, GS and GSL
12A engine w/5 speed tranny (GS and GSL), initially S retained 4 speed

GSL-SE model produced 1984-85
13B engine w/fuel injection
Larger wheels (14") standard

[Riken]

Not sure if you guys knew this but in Japan (or Australia) they got a nice 12AT yes T for turbo. Imagine a nice stock 1st gen turbo. OMG lol

[SpooledupRacing]

yes it was a bad engine

[jungleagent]

Wow Dave! Post #7 jeez o petes...Make one for the 8.

-Riken very good info. Keep up the good posts. ;)

[SpooledupRacing]

Riken will run the 8 stuff

[jungleagent]

You got almost everything on there. That is wild dude.

[SpooledupRacing]

alot fo copy and paste and alot is me adding my own info, my experience etc..

I got lots to conjure up..

[Natey]

Here's a little tech tip.
When changing the oil in your RX-7, stab and punture the oil filter with a flathead screwdriver while you're draining the oil. This will purge and help empty the oil filter, so when you loosen it, no oil will spill out onto your engine. :)
It'll also make the filter easier to loosen, because the slot you punched into it will act as a flathead screw and you can back the filter out with the screwdriver.

[SpooledupRacing]

I have only done that once.. it worked...

as for oil leakage if u use a filter with a valve in it u should never have a problem with oil comming out of the filter onto the engine.. I have yet to.

[Riken]

Good tip guys. Here is a pic of the 12A turbo I was talking about, I think the rx7 was gt-x model not sure.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/12/web/2256000-2256999/2256932_6_full.jpg

[jungleagent]

Hey Riken can you get some info on transmission for the 8. Dave and I are going to be working on my clutch and flywheel next week when we get the parts.

Muchos Gracias.

[SpooledupRacing]

Yes the turbo 12a was in the GT-X only Japan spec car.

[Riken]

Hey Riken can you get some info on transmission for the 8. Dave and I are going to be working on my clutch and flywheel next week when we get the parts.

Muchos Gracias.

Will do, ill have it later on the weekend.

[Riken]

Small DYI on Clutch replacement.
Ill get more info soon.
It requires:

1. taking the exhaust off
2. taking the shifter out
3. supporting the rear diff with a jack
4. taking the power plant frame off (surrounds the drive shaft and holds the transmission in place).
5. taking the drive shaft off (being very careful not to scratch it if it is the carbon fiber one)
6. disconnecting all the wires from the transmission
7. taking the transmission out
8. uninstalling the clutch
9. resurfacing the flywheel using 80 or 100 grit sandpaper in a circular motion to get any ridges out.
10. uninstalling the throwout bearing
11. reinstalling the clutch using the clutch allignment tool
12. reinstalling the throwout bearing
13. reinstalling the transmission, driveshaft, ppf (making sure to use the torque specs and allignment specs for the transmission, ppl, and driveshaft) If this is not done the potential for damage is high and dangereous...
14. top off the transmission as it will leak some gear lube when pulling it down.
15. reinstall shifter

[SpooledupRacing]

yeah I told him to have the mechanic at his work do it.. he quoted him 200.00 to do it
I will supply the tq specs and he can deal with it..

[Riken]

yeah I told him to have the mechanic at his work do it.. he quoted him 200.00 to do it
I will supply the tq specs and he can deal with it..

Thats a good price.

[Riken]

Is he getting a new flywheel too?

[jungleagent]

Yessiry. Thanks Riken for the info.

[jungleagent]

Dave, You got tranny fluid? Im pretty sure they don't have the one I need.

[SpooledupRacing]

yeah u got pm!

[Riken]

Yessiry. Thanks Riken for the info.

No problem, I actually had a step by step someone wrote with pics, but I cant find it...

[jungleagent]

Are you on rx8club.com?

[Riken]

yep. Dont post much but read allot lol. I got the same user name.

[jungleagent]

Hey Riken quick question what is the drive shaft on your 8? I might win a tank of gas before he reads this post. lol

[jungleagent]

Taking him a while accept the bet.

[Riken]

ah?

[SpooledupRacing]

the question is does your car have a STOCK carbon fiber driveshaft?

[Riken]

the question is does your car have a STOCK carbon fiber driveshaft?

lol yeah I think they all came with one.

[jungleagent]

BOOYAH!...Dave Drinks are on you this weekend! lol

[Riken]

BOOYAH!...Dave Drinks are on you this weekend! lol

lol yep I confirmed it too. So CF driveshaft FTW

[Natey]

Whoa, I never knew that. Damn ricers with their carbon fiber. :lol:

[Riken]

Whoa, I never knew that. Damn ricers with their carbon fiber. :lol:

lol dont hate.

[Natey]

Whoa, I never knew that. Damn ricers with their carbon fiber. :lol:

hehe, ...said the guy who just spent a buttload on a cf wing. That's actually pretty f-in cool of Mazda to spend the money for that. What better place to use carbon fiber than the driveshaft of a rotary?

[jungleagent]

Hey Dave where are ya? Beers on ya!

[jungleagent]

Thanks Riken for confirming.

[SpooledupRacing]

sorry we have been down for over 3 hours..

drinks on me

[jungleagent]

Welcome back.

[SteveO]

RX-7 RELATED


Body and wheels

Can I use a 89-91 (S5) tail light on my 86-88 (S4)?
Yes with minor modifications to the body of the 86-88.
Here is a link on converting: http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/taillights.htm

Will 89-91 (S5) mouldings or bumpers fit on my 86-88 (S4) RX-7?
other than some minor mounting hole differences on the front bumpers, the mouldings and bumpers will fit fine.

What size are my wheels?
The stock sizes all have an offset of 40mm or 40 ET and are:
14x5.5 (steel) w/114.3x4 bolt pattern (Base)
14x5.5 w/ 114.3x4 bolt pattern (Base, Luxury, 87.5-88 SE)
15x6 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (GXL, Sport, GTU, 91 coupe)
15x6.5 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (convertible)
16x7 w/ 114.3x5 bolt pattern (Turbo, GTUs, Infini IV)

In addition please see below in this thread for stock wheel type and weight.

On the same vein, the stock tire sizes are:
14x5.5 = 185/70HR14
15x6 & 15x6.5 = 205/60VR15
16x7 = 205/55VR16

Will 3rd Gen RX-7 (FD) wheels fit on my 2nd Gen RX-7?
If you have 5 lug hubs and............................................... .......//



Not trying to be a dick, but you just copied that from 7club. Not saying thats a bad thing, but at least give credit to Icemark who spent alot of time putting that together.

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=494667

[SpooledupRacing]

I did adjust some of the stuff and remove and add to it as well..

I give credit where credit is due.. He has alot of info from me as well that he has not given me credit on!!


BUT if it makes u feel better.. alot of that stuff was taken from www.rx7club.com and it came from MANY peoples experience...

[SteveO]

Right, the info came from alot of people, but he did take the time to compile it all and made a very nice, well put together faq. Like I said before, Im not trying to be a dick, I just think he and 7club should be credited on that.

[SpooledupRacing]

Fixed thx SteveO I hope I was able to make you happy

[jungleagent]

Right, the info came from alot of people, but he did take the time to compile it all and made a very nice, well put together faq. Like I said before, Im not trying to be a dick, I just think he and 7club should be credited on that.

Ya I went to the 7 forum and there was a lot of information about the specifics and parts of the 7. At least they know what they are talking about.

[Riken]

^stop bringing old drama. Keep on topic.

[jungleagent]

^stop bringing old drama. Keep on topic.

Drama?!?!?

<YOU> said it not me.


I recently looked at this thread and did go read the post on the 7 forum and I am confirming that the information is accurate to what was posted. I actually learnt a few things on the 7 forum since I have not been there previous to my post.

Anyway lets not try to instigate anymore awkward post since we all know the situation.

[Protege v2.5]

Awesome post Dave. I feel I could be comfortable actually buying a 7 with all the info you supplied.

I love them but I was never really was sure about getting one because I wasn't sure of how to take care of one properly.

[Riken]

Drama?!?!?

<YOU> said it not me.


I recently looked at this thread and did go read the post on the 7 forum and I am confirming that the information is accurate to what was posted. I actually learnt a few things on the 7 forum since I have not been there previous to my post.

Anyway lets not try to instigate anymore awkward post since we all know the situation.

Thats what im talking about, lets not bring back any old "drama" post and keep on topic.

[jungleagent]

Thats what im talking about, lets not bring back any old "drama" post and keep on topic.

What does the topic say? things you need to know about rotary. So if you again read and not just look at my post I am concluding that I went to the 7 forum and found this thread accurate to the information sited there.

If you want to keep with the topic stop being repetitive with your post.

Read and move on.

Jeez this isn't elementary school. Quit with the pointing fingers.

[jungleagent]

Awesome post Dave. I feel I could be comfortable actually buying a 7 with all the info you supplied.

I love them but I was never really was sure about getting one because I wasn't sure of how to take care of one properly.

Any plans which gen 7 your planning on getting?

[Protege v2.5]

If the money was there I'd be taking a ride to NY to pick this one up.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=248669155&dealer_id=63017191&car_year=1987&model=RX7&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=100&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&make=MAZDA&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=19081&advanced=y&end_year=2009&doors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=&cardist=116&rdpage=thumb

Basically, I'd love me a FC. Once I have a garage of my own. This will not be far behind.

[jungleagent]

If the money was there I'd be taking a ride to NY to pick this one up.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=248669155&dealer_id=63017191&car_year=1987&model=RX7&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=100&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&make=MAZDA&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=19081&advanced=y&end_year=2009&doors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=&cardist=116&rdpage=thumb

Basically, I'd love me a FC. Once I have a garage of my own. This will not be far behind.

Thats is pretty nice. But in my opinion save your money and get the FD. A lot more potential

[Riken]

If the money was there I'd be taking a ride to NY to pick this one up.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=248669155&dealer_id=63017191&car_year=1987&model=RX7&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=100&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&make=MAZDA&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=19081&advanced=y&end_year=2009&doors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=&cardist=116&rdpage=thumb

Basically, I'd love me a FC. Once I have a garage of my own. This will not be far behind.


That is hot. S4 TII w/S5 taillights. Looks very clean. I would buy this in a heart beat. FC FTW. Much cheaper to fix than a FD.

[jungleagent]

If the money was there I'd be taking a ride to NY to pick this one up.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=248669155&dealer_id=63017191&car_year=1987&model=RX7&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=100&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&showZipError=n&make=MAZDA&keywords_display=&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=19081&advanced=y&end_year=2009&doors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=&cardist=116&rdpage=thumb

Basically, I'd love me a FC. Once I have a garage of my own. This will not be far behind.

Did ya end up buying it?

[Protege v2.5]

Negative. Like I said I don't have a garage so no where to store in the winter months.

I'm currently returning my Protege back to stock. Selling everything to pay off some of the debt I have, and we will see where I go from there. Either Sell the Pro for an MS6 or Keep the Pro for a DD and Buy a clean 7.

[jungleagent]

That was a clean 7.

[Riken]

You can also trade in the protege for a 7 lol