How To: Blacked Out Badges

[Raider]

As I had experienced in purchasing pre-painted badges, if it is not done right, the paint will flake off over time, and you have to redo it. Chrome and paint do not mix.

Well, recently I saw a way to remove chrome from the badges with little effort. I tried it when my pre-painted blacked out badges began to peel off unprepped chrome. This method works, and is safe for plastic.

The latest endeavor is a regular "Mazda" Badge. Purchased used online, it arrived today, and thus starts my contri to the forum. My how-to.

You will need
1) chrome badges
2) Bleach
3) holding container for the badges. A larger container will need less bleach swapping, as I found out after 1 day.
4) fine sandpaper or steel wool
5) Patience, as it takes a bit of time to let it sit.
6) Ammonia and hydrogen peroxide
6) double sided adhesive. 3M from Home Depot, or score some really thin stuff like factory via ebay.

****the final step of this process is where ammonia and hydrogen peroxide are mixes to remove and remaining fragments. The only drawback is their fumes are deadly if you have any of that chlorine bleach at all, so use a different container and rinse the badges for a long time under water, to remove all bleach!!! The ratio of ammonia to peroxide is 5 to 1.****

On with the show!

Here is the newly received chrome badge.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3128.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3131.jpg

I am sure the previous owner spent a lot of care to ensure the pegs were intact. But I do not need them, so off they went via Dremel too.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3132.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3134.jpg

Then I sourced a bleach-eating-chrome resistant container
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3135.jpg
I rinsed it out, cut off its identifying label for better picture access, and placed the badge inside.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3136.jpg

I then filled it with Bleach. Clorox. I filled the container up past the badge, just in case it decided to try and float or something. (no pic, but imagine a clear liquid in a bottle with the badge)

I put it in a secure area away from pets and weather. I went inside for 20 minutes. I came back out and this is what I saw.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3138.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3143.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3144.jpg

I am sure it is totally safe to breathe... 17 Mb Video of the chrome hating the bleach
http://s156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/?action=view&current=MVI_3137.flv

Stay tuned, as I will be updating as the days go by.

After 3 days, I plan to switch the bleach out for fresh, and snap some progress pics. 3 days after it will be ready for minor prepping and paint hopefully.

[Raider]

Day1 check in, 24 hours after submersion. With my badges in the past, I used a big pail with a gallon of bleach. Now, I am using a smaller container. When I went out, the bleach was clear, nothing was happening. No bubbles at all.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3146.jpg

Lots of black crap at the bottom.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3147.jpg

With my 1974 US Spec nose, I detected very little odor coming from the container. So I thought I should do a fluid swap. Sent it down the toilet, and held back the badge as it drained.
The chrome had come off the edges pretty well. It has begun to show the mint blue plastic that Mazda uses for my badge.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3148.jpg

I rinsed the container and badge, and placed back in the container, and refilled. As I was taking it back to it's secure location, the badge began to bubble like it was Alka Seltzer. So I think I either need a bigger container, or daily bleach swap. Mental note, use a large container of bleach.

An hour later, the container is black again, and fizzing like a soda. Cannot wait to see what it looks like tomorrow. Will update as needed.


Day 3!
Bleach was clear once again. Brought in for a rinse and pic. Most of the chrome off the face is gone. Surprisingly, the back is doing remarkable well at retaining its chrome.
Here is today's pic.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3151.jpg

[Raider]

Day 4, chrome almost gone! Lots of black stuff, I hope that comes off in the next day or so. The back side still has a decent amount of chrome left, but I am not too concerned if it is stripped off or not. If not, I am dong the ammonia and hydrogen peroxide for the final step.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3155.jpg

Refilled again, and back outside.

Day 5.
Today might be the last day of bleach for me. The front is 99.9% chrome free. The back looks like the bleach ran out of juice 1/2 way through eating the chrome, and was black, so I had to soak it for another day. I think If I used a larger container. I would have been better off.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3158.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3160.jpg

[Raider]

Day 6. No Ammonia/Hydrogen Peroxide needed!
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3164.jpg

There are literally sand sized black specs that are coming off with 800 grit paper with ease.

To paint, I got a piece of scrap wood. I then got some 3M double sided foam adhesive, and broke off 3 pieces, rolled into balls, and attached to the badge, and then pressed the badge onto the board. This allows me to get all of the badge, and not so much it sticks to the wood.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3166.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3167.jpg

I applied 3 or 4 coats of paint, waiting a few minutes between coats. I am very impressed with the Krylon Fusion paint. Nice coverage.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3169.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3170.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3171.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3172.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3173.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3174.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3180.jpg


Next step was spraying on several coats of Duplicolor Clear for long term protection.

Here it is the next day. Paint still a little soft, but I wanted to snap a good shot.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3187.jpg However, after an hour in the shade, I noticed the clear went to satin. The Duplicolor failed me. So I picked up a can of clear at Home Depot, and used 3 coats.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3201.jpg


It is really glossy now.
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3200.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3199.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3196.jpg


A few more days to dry, and I will install it on the car!

[JC-MP5]

Or you could have bought Street Unit ones! ;)

[kansei]

Or you could have bought Street Unit ones! ;)

I'm sure he would have loved that ;)

for the record I've seen their very expensive painted badges flake.

[JC-MP5]

Im just doing my job.

[Raider]

Kansei must know of my situation...I did buy the badges from them. In fact, the blacked out stuff on my car was originally purchased by me from them. They are using my pictures in their blacked out badges for sale section on their website. In fact, they are also still using my pictures of my wife's CX-7 to hawk their CX-7 stuff.

I did not really want to bring it up, but many of you may not know this of me. I used to be a rep for SU. My wife and I were friends with the owner for several years, actually. I was a volunteer so to speak, repping him on several forums, but not an official employee. Last September, my wife and I terminated our personal and professional involvement with them, and no longer associate with them. The fact they are not here is a reason I am. That is all I am going to say about that.

Back on topic. Later last year, the paint started flaking off the flying M up front revealing shiny chrome. Then, when I repositioned the MPS badge, I caught an overhanging part of the paint over-spray on them, and it peeled up one part, showing shiny chrome there. That is when I saw how to to properly prep the pieces, and I did them myself. I have not had a single problem since.

My how-to is a way for people to do the mod themselves, learn how to do it, and pass on the knowledge I learned.

[Raider]

Video of the badge hating the bleach added to post #1

[DemonIAm]

I've been doing this pocess too. Started last Saturday. Pulled the badges out Monday, cleaned, and fresh bleach. Did the same thing Today. Rear badge is all-but-done, and the front only has 1 or 2 stubborn spots left. I'll prollly check them tomorrow or Friday am, and update.

[kansei]

I can't wait to see the results of this method. I've wanted to de-chrome my new front emblem ever since I got it, but the sand + spray method, while decent, isn't the greatest especially for a front emblem. Gotta get all the chrome off, so this method seems promising.

I just never bothered looking up some proper way to do it, just figured sanding it was good.

I have plenty of spare Protege/323/mazda emblems to play around with too :)

[Raider]

I've been doing this pocess too. Started last Saturday. Pulled the badges out Monday, cleaned, and fresh bleach. Did the same thing Today. Rear badge is all-but-done, and the front only has 1 or 2 stubborn spots left. I'll prollly check them tomorrow or Friday am, and update.

Yeah, I think that is why the others have done the hydrogen peroxide /ammonia finishing method. It gets the last bits off that do not come off. My other badges, I used a fingernail and pick to remove the rest that was loosely hanging on. The whole deadly if inhaled part is not for me.

[kansei]

So this literally dissolves the majority of the chrome without harming the plastic? Most excellent

*contemplates colours for front emblem.. I'm thinking gunmetal since I have a half quart of PPG paint matched to my wheels*

*contemplates how much bleach I would need to do this to my valve cover.. does it work with high temp paint too? haha*

[Raider]

Is your valve cover chromed? Bleach loves chrome. The toxic mix I think eats the copper.

If not, I do not think the bleach will help. Brush on paint remover is pretty snazzy though. Not sure how well it likes valve covers, but on wood, it is great.

[CTt3P5]

Nice write up!

Like Chris I did the sand and paint method for the front emblem and it didn't turn out so good after a few months of driving. So it looks like I will be bleaching soon.

[fatti03msp]

i just went to hobby town and picked up the spray called smoke, P-31 is the paint code. It tamiya or something like that.

[pro5x2]

Still toying with the idea of blacking out the badges. But now that I don't have the black wheels, I kinda like the shiney with my shiney Racing Harts.

[Raider]

Update in post #2.

[DemonIAm]

I'll get a pic of my badges when I get home tonight. no worry about sanding too rough, FTW. Bleach got all but 2% of the underlying copper off. Some 1000 grit paper is helping me finish it.

I think the process goes a little faster if you pull them out and remove the old stuff/expose the chrome every 2 days.

[Raider]

Good call. I think you are right. The chemical reaction must be pretty significant with the chrome, almost neutralizing the bleach. I think I will rinse it daily to get some progress pics.

I have not broken a sweat doing this, at all. It reminds my of a toy back in the 80's where you put this toy monster in an acid (fake, of course) and all that is left is a skeleton.

[DemonIAm]

I tell you what though, some of this remaining copper is a PITA, I wish I had some rougher sandpaper, like maybe 800 or so

[Raider]

I guess that is where the die-if-you-inhale mix comes in. That cleans up the copper. I just have not had to use it before.

[DemonIAm]

maybe I'll experiment tomorrow.

[Raider]

And I have both of those chemicals. If I must, I will do the mix, with fan blowing the fumes away from me.

[sumo_bob]

I tell you what though, some of this remaining copper is a PITA, I wish I had some rougher sandpaper, like maybe 800 or so

the higher you go the less rough it is... some 240 - 180 should do nicely. just make sure to go over it with 400 to put a nice surface on it for painting. And remember kiddies, Adhesion Promoter is your friend.

[Raider]

Adhesion Promoter? I had used Duplicolor primer and paint in the past. This time, I was going to be daring, and do Krylon Fusion and clear coat. The paint is designed to go direct to plastic.

[CTt3P5]

The Krylon Fusion should work no problem. I used it on my front emblem and rear badges in a satin black finish (along with some clear). The rear badges are holding up just fine after sanding and painting but the front looks like $hit.

[DemonIAm]

ZOMG, Fanged Ms are in the nude!!!!

front badge:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2009/2517723717_2fe5fc2e31.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3249/2517731479_6a9fc479a5.jpg

rear badge:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3079/2518544082_23d0ef8d46.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3166/2517730233_09e6c6e79a.jpg


Looks like the 2 badges are made out of different plastics. weird...

OK: So now that My badges are at this stage, I washed the hell out of them with cold water. You want to make sure there is no bleach remaining on the badges! Chlorine and Ammonia create a toxic gas that will kill you!!!!! For added safety, I got a completely different container, and added a 5:1 mixture of Amonia : Hydrogen Peroxide. Then I dropped in the badges. I did this outside, just to be safe. This process will supposedly remove the stubborn bits of chrome/copper still bonded to the badges.

[Raider]

Did you get the chrome completely off prior to painting?

The Krylon Fusion should work no problem. I used it on my front emblem and rear badges in a satin black finish (along with some clear). The rear badges are holding up just fine after sanding and painting but the front looks like .

Demon, is that after the toxic bath?

[DemonIAm]

That is just after a week of bleach baths. I put it in the ammonia/peroxide bucket @8:30am. Theres no cool reaction, like with the bleach. Hopefully If I let it sit, something will have happened by Tuesday. I'm getting impatient already though. Just went and checked on them, and no change.

[Raider]

Cool. I am updating post #2 with today's look...

EDIT: Post #2 updated now

[Raider]

Edited post #1, as the fumes from the ammonia/hydrogen peroxide mix are only deadly if chlorine is in the mix at all, so a new container and a full rinse are needed.

[Raider]

Post #3 update...chrome almost gone!

[jeg0024]

Subbin to see this last step! I have an extra emblem I must try this on, but what if its already painted on top of the chrome? Will this still work?

[jeg0024]

Edited post #1, as the fumes from the ammonia/hydrogen peroxide mix are only deadly if chlorine is in the mix at all, so a new container and a full rinse are needed.

Ammonia + Chlorine = Mustard Gas! Not cool lol, so be careful!

[Raider]

I love mustard ,so it is ok. Seriously ,I plan to hold that badge and scrub it under water for 5 minutes before it goes in the ammonia and peroxide bath. I am not sure if it will work with a painted badge. I bet if you sand it to where the chrome starts to peek through, it will work. I dunno. Try it. Bleach is cheap.

Post #3 updated

[jeg0024]

Looks cool, I think it might be possible without removing paint first, but would probably have to change the bleach more often. Maybe I'll give it a try.

[SteveO]

Just a FYI....yesterday I started this project to see if it would also work on the old style badges. (I have a friend with a BPT 323 who could use it). So far, the results are the same.
Only issue is when repainting the old style badges, the middle section will have to be taped off.


http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b223/SteveORX7/100_4077.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b223/SteveORX7/100_4078.jpg

[Raider]

you can wipe the black stuff off with your hands if you want to. I did that every day. not sure if it helps.

[jeg0024]

Was that old badge painted or only chrome?

[Raider]

Looks chrome to me. The orange is the copper.

[jeg0024]

Guess I'll have to try my painted one for the sake of this thread! lol.

[Raider]

Bleach in a bucket and a badge. Pretty easy to find out.

I did go check and the face of the badge is almost completely clean.

[jeg0024]

Sweet, mines painted "ford blue" just because I was bored, its never been on the car since and never got clear coated. Im going to try mine tonight.

[Raider]

Leave the bucket outside, and you should hopefully get a reaction. If not, some paint thinner to take off the paint, and you will be ok.

[CTt3P5]

[QUOTE=Raider;64161]Did you get the chrome completely off prior to painting?/QUOTE]

No, not at all. Basically I scuffed it up real good but not good enough. lol

[Raider]

Well, it had a good soak for a day, and when I got it today, the bottle was clear, and the badge was 99.9% cleaned off. No ammonia needed for me!
Post #4 updated. I will be painting tonight!

[Raider]

post #4 updated with black paint.

[jeg0024]

Thats pretty cool!

[Mr.Pickles]

Can I remove my bleach covered badges with liquid chrome?

[Raider]

Pickles, you are awesome.

As for the result, it is amazing. I will need to wait until tomorrow night to move the badge to a place where I can take pics as the overspray on the wood ruins the pics.

For $85, I am willing to do this for you guys. Just send me your badges. :)

Stay tuned for tomorrow night for some pics, and in a couple days (I want it very dry before I attempt to mount it to the car) I will put it on my speed.

[Mr.Pickles]

I also have a vintage 74 nose. (though it had mild reconstruction in 88 after a 4 wheeler/tree incident)

I roughed mine up with some 400 grit and shot over them. It's been about a month and they still look ok. We'll see how they hold up.

[DemonIAm]

Nice updates Raider! I had 2 copper spots that absolutely would not come off. I was able to flake them gently using a fresh razor blade, and some 600 grit paper.

Badges are fully naked, I just need to find the right color. I did end up buying a can of clear primer/plastic adhesion promoter, since I will not be using Krylon Fusion.

I bought a can of Duplicolor Radiant silver, which will compliment the wheels i think. Duplicolor used to carry a platinum color, (which was a near perfect match to the p5's painted interior BTW) but I've had no luck finding it.

Also, since my badges are shaved, I may add some plastic putty/filler to the bottom of the fanged pieces, to make them look more complete.

[Raider]

I used that method for the other badges, I thought I would try something new. Post #4 updated. Glad to hear it all came off, Demon.

[DemonIAm]

edit: I found my new badge color. Plasti-Kote "Light Pewter Metallic"- an exact match with the interior trim. Now, to wait for a non-rainy day!

[kansei]

where are plasti-kote paints sold? you're talking about the bright silver interior trim, right?

[Raider]

http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote/index.jsp

Click the product, and then there is an option to enter your zip code on where to buy.

[DemonIAm]

where are plasti-kote paints sold? you're talking about the bright silver interior trim, right?
Yeah, what Raider said. this is like the closest I've found to the actual color in the car. maybe .5 shade too light, but my interior probably needs cleaning too.

[fatti03msp]

to bad i couldnt have stayed this color, i think that would look pretty sweet. a Black chrome look.


http://http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3174.jpg

[DemonIAm]

uh oh, pic is X

[Raider]

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t34/raiderms3/Blacked%20Out%20Badges/IMG_3174.jpg

[DemonIAm]

ooooooh, aaaaaaahhh

[Raider]

Small update. After letting it site for a day, the Duplicolor clear went all satin and shit on me. A trip to Home Depot, and a can of Gloss Clear, and it is shiny again. Sure hope it stays that way.

[CulRidr]

Small update. After letting it site for a day, the Duplicolor clear went all satin and shit on me. A trip to Home Depot, and a can of Gloss Clear, and it is shiny again. Sure hope it stays that way.

Ya I'm really not a fan of the Duplicolor clear coat...it is so hard to get a nice clear glossy clear coat with it...what brand is the Gloss Clear? I might add a coat of it on my wheels to get a bit more of a glossy look to them as well (as I need to redo my badges as well since they all chipped, probably because I didn't go through all the steps you went through...and the cold winter didn't help I'm sure.

[Raider]

It is good ol Rustoleum. :)

[Raider]

Newer pics in post #4. I needed to really reserve a spot in post #5...doh!

[fatti03msp]

y the hell was my pic an X o well raider posted the pic i was talking about.

[Raider]

You have two HTTP:// in your link.

[fatti03msp]

o, looks good though, you are really letting those SOB's dry though lol.

[chico]

Nice I'll try this.

[Raider]

I am waiting, as I will need to handle it a lot to trim the double-sided tape, and then to press it on. fingerprints in paint suck. Prolly installing Sunday.

[DemonIAm]

damn duplicolor adhsion promoter krazed up on me. Did not really notice it until Got to sand them down and redo them! fuck-a-doodle-doo

[Raider]

What happened?

[DemonIAm]

too heavy of a coat maybe? never had it do that before. am halfway through sanding the front badge now. The rear badge looks excellent, now. I want to put 1 more coat on and then do the clear tomorrow.

[Raider]

funny story. I was about to start sanding, and did not check the grit on the paper. right before I went to do something, I felt it. 80 grit. It was right on top of the 800. eek!

[DemonIAm]

close call, that would have sucked!

[DemonIAm]

PHOTOS! Look how close this paint matches the interior trim.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3090/2538990569_639864d777_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3176/2539815856_4832d6aaff_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2038/2538994651_97f2afac61_b.jpg

I need 1-2 more clear coats, just for the depth factor..

[kansei]

oh wow that's a ridiculously good match!

[Raider]

Looking great! Again, what color is that? I think for the Protege 5's it is Seattle Silver Duplicolor, right?

As for an update, I begin trim installation on the badge today. If I wash my car, the badge goes on. Temps in the mid 90's and humid, so we will see.

I now have an ebay-sourced MPS badge soaking in a bucket of bleach for my next piece. Not sure where I will put it.

[DemonIAm]

Plasti-Kote brand "Light Pewter Metallic"

[kansei]

Is it a "home" or "automotive" paint? I can't find it on their site but I figure if I at least go to the right store (home vs automotive) maybe I can find it.

[DemonIAm]

Automotive "truck and SUV" is what is on the can. IDK if it can be shipped legally, but we can arrange something if you need it. I found mine in CarQuest for $11.xx.

[kansei]

There's places that stock the automotive paint here (looks like little local shops not any of the big ones) so I'll just check.. none of them are open on Sundays.

[Raider]

That is a perfect match in my book.

I used the bucket O bleach method. Wow, saw smokey fumes come off today. Then a dumbas move, and top part of the S on the MPS badge went down the drain when I was swapping the bleach out. Past the pea trap gone. Trying to source that part from an AUS contact now. Damnit.

[kansei]

aw snap :(

[Raider]

Nope, no snapping. It is a separate piece. Unless you are saying awwww snap!. Then yeah, it sucks. But the Mazda badge is almost ready to go on. The adhesive is being trimmed up to go on this week when I wash the car.

[kansei]

yeah I was saying "awwww snap" haha.

[Raider]

yeah, suckage. plus, it rained yesterday, so no washing. Will rain all week now it seems, and it has not rained in like 2 months.

[paragon]

Hrm, I plan to debadge and fill in the holes in my hatch this month. My Mazda badge is still in good shape; the Protege5 one, not so much. This gives me an idea of what to do with the Mazda badge, and possible relocation on the hatch!

[DemonIAm]

INSTALLED PICTURES!!!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3267/2556380722_c4fdac38cd_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3166/2556363308_d1ef1a92ed_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3037/2556354952_be96769359_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3263/2556360032_68416d9152_b.jpg

[Raider]

very nice!

[chico]

looks awsome

[habeansha]

i got a problem

how do you get all the sticky stuff off?

I tried using this bug and tar remover that i had and simple green but its stuck on the car and on the badges

i also tried heating it up with a hair dryer but its really stuck

any ideas?

ive also been using a empty gift card to scrape the gunk off w/o much luck

[fatti03msp]

i got a problem

how do you get all the sticky stuff off?

I tried using this bug and tar remover that i had and simple green but its stuck on the car and on the badges

i also tried heating it up with a hair dryer but its really stuck

any ideas?

ive also been using a empty gift card to scrape the gunk off w/o much luck

Not sure how hot the blow dryer gets, but i picked up a heat gun for cheap and all i did was get it really hot and peal it off, it burns like mofo but it works.

[Raider]

I used PB DSR (Decal and Sticker Remover) from an auto parts store. When I removed the moldings on my protege 5, I used that stuff, and a plastic paint scraper. Sprayed. LEt it sit for 10 minutes, scraped. Then repeated 3 times, and it was off. I had nearly all of the adhesive foam on my car, which is why it took forever.

[CulRidr]

i got a problem

how do you get all the sticky stuff off?

I tried using this bug and tar remover that i had and simple green but its stuck on the car and on the badges

i also tried heating it up with a hair dryer but its really stuck

any ideas?

ive also been using a empty gift card to scrape the gunk off w/o much luck

Goo Gone is a wonderful product to do this...

[DemonIAm]

...and be sure to use a cloth towel to remove the glue gunk. paper towels just tend to shred, but a clean towel or old t shirt will work great. just remember to move to a clean piece of cloth, after a few wipes.

[habeansha]

does this look done yet?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/habeansha/DSCF1988.jpg

[Raider]

What do you mean?

Edit: I posted that at work, when I was blocked from seeing the pics.

[sumo_bob]

I have to chime in and remind everyone if you are going to paint, us light coats. If you build up too much paint/clear/etc... it will just flake off. 2-3 light coats of paint/clear should get you. Remember, you can always apply another coat to hit the missed spots, but you can't take it off (unless you sand it, which kind of defeats the whole damned purpose). Also if you really want your paint job to pop, take some 2000 grit sand paper, and give it a quick wet sand, then hit it with a slight cut polish.

[DemonIAm]

does this look done yet?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/habeansha/DSCF1988.jpg

Yeah, these look good, now you need to give them a good sand down, to remove all the black crap, and see how much chrome/copper is under the black stuff. If it's a bunch, drop it in for another few days, if it's not a lot then use a little heavier grit paper to remove the leftovers.

[habeansha]

word of advice to stupid peoplez

dont cap the bottle. i guess gas builds up inside. also dont shake a capped bottle. i was checking one that wasnt good yet that i was soaking in a bottle and it started leaking so i opened the lid and it popped off. my hand is sore now

btw anyone know the chemical reaction that is happening when you do this?

[Raider]

Yeah. A big pail is best, I found. What reaction is happening I am sure can be explained. I am sure it is not the best to inhale.

[habeansha]

I am sure it is not the best to inhale.

i think i got a big whiff of it

and now i got a major headache

i know bleach is sodium hypochlorate i think. so maybe the gas was chlorine? and the black stuff maybe silver chloride? i think thats the stuff that makes things turn black and there a black particles in the bleach after soaking

[habeansha]

didnt come out amazing

but its good enough for me

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/habeansha/DSCF2009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v343/habeansha/DSCF2011.jpg

[Raider]

Looks good in pictures!

[DemonIAm]

I like it a lot!